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Old 03-12-2017, 11:49 PM   #21
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Ready, set...

I'm planning to rip the 5 1/2" wide stuff into roughly 1" widths and epoxy it back together bent to the shape of the old swim platform. The curved planks will end up about 5" wide.
I'll be looking forward to watching this swimstep take shape.
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Old 03-13-2017, 02:16 AM   #22
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I'll be looking forward to watching this swimstep take shape.
Me too. Mr Deckrot is seriously impressive with timber work.
We used some red mahogany for window work,really heavy weight stuff for size of plank, must be a high density timber.
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Old 03-13-2017, 05:02 AM   #23
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DHeckrott
Nice project! Are you relying only on epoxy to bond the strips and spacer blocks? Are you steaming the lumber?

Lots of pics as you move forward please

Thanks for letting us follow.
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Old 03-13-2017, 05:53 AM   #24
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One, maybe stupid, question. Why to bend the strips instead of laminating a square board and then cut the platform shape in this square board?
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:43 PM   #25
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Made a little progress over the last couple days: Revised the design several times, changing plank widths, end plank width, aftmost plank width, added handholds, added offset dimensions to transfer the shape to the worktable. Extended my 8' worktable to 12'. Ripped the Mahogany, and glued up the first plank. Progress will now be to glue up one plank a day for five more days.

Design constraints include: original outline, drainage, handholds, length of available stock. Still fretting whether I glue the whole thing into one piece or arrange that the planks will be free to move with wet and dry. Gut reaction is to glue it up. One alternative is to bolt the planks to crosspieces underneath; the negative to that, in my mind, is that those lapped joints would never dry and would rot prematurely.

Lou, the planks will be gapped for drainage and there will be no end grain running out along the edges. Thus very little end grain to absorb water or to provide splinters.
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Old 03-16-2017, 04:35 AM   #26
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Very nicely done
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:58 PM   #27
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As intended, glued the second plank today. And cleaned up the first plank.

Some of you know to expect 'spring back' when you laminate or steam bend wood to curves. That is, the newly bent/laminated member tends to straighten out a bit when released from its form. The first plank was clamped to blocks w/o allowing for spring back. Holding it at one end, it straightened about 3/4" in the 12' length to the other end; it bends readily back to the intended curve. Of course, the next five planks would require finished bends of larger radii than the first. Thus, I am able to glue all planks to the smaller radius of the first plank; saves me having to re-lay out, and relocate the clamping blocks. I will temporarily clamp each plank to its planned curve to prevent any gradual relaxation or creep.
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Old 03-16-2017, 06:17 PM   #28
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Oh yes this is gonna be nice . I love all your work.I need to build one myself . We stock 6/4 African mahogany at work . I wonder how that would work .
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:23 PM   #29
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I'm so jealous of you'se guys who know how to work with wood! That's an art form to me.
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:56 PM   #30
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I'm so jealous of you'se guys who know how to work with wood! That's an art form to me.
Need the right tools, which I don't have either.
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:59 PM   #31
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Thank you for your kind comments! One reason I post this stuff is to show that it really is not all that difficult. Al, you just start and then persevere.

Marty, indeed 'African Mahogany' is Khaya and is well-thought-of for rot resistance. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khaya Since Honduras Mahogany was no longer available, I made the deck of my restored Flying Dutchman out of Shelmarine Khaya marine plywood (and sadly, Shelmarine no longer makes Lloyds rated BS 1088 plywood out of Khaya).
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Old 03-16-2017, 09:25 PM   #32
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Fascinating, following this one closely.

It is on my to do list, but I don't feel confident enough yet have a go at it.
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Old 03-16-2017, 09:37 PM   #33
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For what it's worth, I had my new platform made @ PlasTeak It was about your length ( 12' +/- ) but I added 16" to the width. The platform was about 3200.00 USD all in.

I made a tracing of the old platform and mailed the paper trace to them c/w new dimensions and that was it.
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:00 AM   #34
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Ex, looks good! What did you do about supporting the extra width? It would seem to me that new brackets and bigger backup blocks within the transom would be required.

I think my stainless steel brackets are a bit light. They might be rust damaged. The bolts leak into the boat, and the glassed-in backup blocks are probably rotten. (And that swim ladder has got to go!)
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:18 AM   #35
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Ex, looks good! What did you do about supporting the extra width? It would seem to me that new brackets and bigger backup blocks within the transom would be required.

I think my stainless steel brackets are a bit light. They might be rust damaged. The bolts leak into the boat, and the glassed-in backup blocks are probably rotten. (And that swim ladder has got to go!)
I was not sure if a bracket extension was even needed, but I welded 1/4" stainless flat bar ( 16" longer ) on top of the existing brackets and added an extra diagonal tube towards the front of the ( new ) extended bracket.
Also, I made adjustments to the ladder going up from swim platform to the Sun Deck by bolting it to the swim platform so it would take some of the extra weight.
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Old 03-17-2017, 01:09 PM   #36
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That's the Heckrotte we all know here...carving out his signature wood artistry. Those brackets do look a bit light though. Is your transom cored? An equal percentage of work when installing my own platform was the bracket backing plates and a few extra measures where bracket bolt holes went through cored areas, etc.. I'm sure this project will produce your usual quality outcome.
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Old 03-17-2017, 03:51 PM   #37
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Ex, looks good! Larry, thank you!

No, my transom is not cored. It's something shy of 1/2" thick with glassed-in wood backing plates. Hard to estimate from photos, but both Ex and L appear to have brackets whose vertical legs against the transom are shorter than mine. Means the inward and outward loads are higher and closer together. Obviously, the upper fastenings can be easily reinforced with backing plates - basically a very large washer. The lower backing plates would work adequately and easily, but aesthetically unacceptably if mounted on the outside. I'm leaning toward cleaning the inside surfaces at each bracket down to the fiberglass transom, removing the old backing plates in the process, and epoxying in new storebought (McMaster-Carr) G10 fiberglass panels. A pretty unpleasant hour or two, and it's unhelpful that the trim tab hoses and the hydraulic steering tubing are mounted on the backup plates' 'glass. Somehow, I'd have preferred the PO to have left the lazarette dirty rather than that paint job.

Meanwhile, today's progress: Two finished planks and the third glued.
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:56 PM   #38
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Hard to estimate from photos, but both Ex and L appear to have brackets whose vertical legs against the transom are shorter than mine. Means the inward and outward loads are higher and closer together. Obviously, the upper fastenings can be easily reinforced with backing plates - basically a very large washer. The lower backing plates would work adequately and easily, but aesthetically unacceptably if mounted on the outside.
True. The full displacement hull on our boat rises out of the water on both sides and leaves little to work with underneath the platform. The brackets are 3/8" plate SS with 1.25" tubing. Backing plates are bonded 3/8" 5052 aluminum dipped in zink oxide primer and Tef-Gel coating on the 3/8" SS bolts. I had considered using G-10 plate on the outside but had already cut and fit the brackets to mate the platform against the hull. Might have been a good idea too, but I'm pleased with how solid the mounting feels.
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Old 03-17-2017, 11:46 PM   #39
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I suggest domed nuts on the bolts protruding through and under the swimstep. They can do a lot of violence to the unwary inflatable which gets itself under the swimstep.
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Old 03-19-2017, 10:16 AM   #40
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Larry, really good looking!

Bruce, quite right, though we call 'em 'acorn nuts'. Tough on swimmers, too. My preference for such things is a tapped hole in the backer plate, or affixed item, and no nut at all. Other options that I've used include: tapped holes in reinforced epoxy or into fiberglass, nuts epoxied into recesses into the back of epoxied-in backer plates, nuts welded onto the concealed side of the item, 'permanent nuts' which are basically threaded inserts, and 'tee' nuts. Everything smooth and flush, top and bottom.
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