New seals but still leaking?

[Johnson fishing]

Hello, I'm struggling with my 2017 Evinrude 30hp etec lower end. I bought the motor 3 years ago and I've have a milky lower end since. I got it pressure tested and it passed. The next year I paid the marina to replace all the seals. This year it looks... Odd. Water didn't come out, but it sure doesn't look like pure oil. I moor my boat in the water for 7 months a year. I've attached a few pictures. This one after sitting in a jar for about 2 weeks. It's so dark like sediment. There was zero metal on the magnet though... Doesn't water settle to the bottom? I see none.

This seems insane, the owner manual states I can do it every three years, I probably put on the motor 20-35 hours a year

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Yep. Looks like water contamination to me in the glass tray. Can't really be anything else I can think of. There's nothing down there other than lubrication (oil). Seals? Drain plug washer (should be replaced when changing oil AFAIK)?



What does the marina say?

[Johnson fishing]

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Yup new plug washers and all new seals in the spring.
Truthfully I haven't asked the marina yet. I officially have trust issues with them. I'm in the hole for 400$ and nothing's been resolved!

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr, Jf. Well, water down there is NOT good. I know it's tough to spend more $$ on resolution but IF the original marina won't help you out (off warranty will surely be their excuse) I would suggest another marina with a factory certified technician do the same "repair". Another bottom end is going to cost you quite a bit more than $800. Get it fixed and be sure to check it at the end of the end of next season, for sure or just before the repair warranty period (I suspect 30 to 90 days). Get the warranty in writing (will solidify your case when you go to court).

The fact the boat sits in the water shouldn't enter the equation.
Cracked housing, perhaps?
Maybe an internet Evinrude group could shed more light on the problem.

[fgarriso]

Go to a shop that has a factory Certified Master Technician. Explain to him the problems you are having with the MOTOR. Don't get into what the other shop did or didn't do. Have them to reseal the entire lower unit and inspect the shaft sealing surfaces. Remember you have three shafts in the lower unit. Gear shift, input. and prop shaft. Also check for case cracks.

[DennisB1]

Replacing seals is important however the metal surface that the seal engages must be smooth without seal worn groves. This might require replacement of the shaft. The propeller shaft is the one I would be most concerned about. Is the lower unit submerged for 7 months?

[O C Diver]

So the marina replaced the seals. And then filled it with oil? How many times was the oil in the lower unit charged? From experience, water in an engine, transmission, or lower unit, doesn't get removed in one oil change, especially if there's enough to make the oil "milky". I would have expected to change the oil atleast 4 times after running it for maybe 4 hours to get most of the residue out.

Ted

[Pete Meisinger]

It is very hard if not damn near impossible to get all the used oil out of an engine or lower unit. It can still contaminate new oil after 3 or more oil changes.

If the yard did the oil change properly do not lose hope. It is not the end of the world, (or the lower unit), to run it with a bit of water homoginized into the oil. I literally can not count the number of outboards I have drained to find water contaminated lower unit oil.

It ain't good for them but it ain't necessarily all that bad either.

pete

[jgwinks]

If you get cold weather where you are, don't ever let it sit outside over winter with water in it. The expansion when it freezes can crack the housing. And considering a crack could be causing your problem, that may be how it happened.