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Old 06-14-2020, 03:23 PM   #21
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Pedestal enclosure glue up pic.Attachment 103840
Dave: Are these two sections to be nested, one inside the other? Where did you get the cylinder?
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Old 06-14-2020, 04:39 PM   #22
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Dave: Are these two sections to be nested, one inside the other? Where did you get the cylinder?
Yes, the top box will drop over the bottom. All they do is conceal the pedestal. The pedestal will be set up so the table is 28" and can drop to 20". I am waiting on back ordered pedestal.
https://shop4seats.com/rv-furniture/...-pedestal.html
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Old 06-16-2020, 06:06 PM   #23
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Took the plunge and did the mortise for the SOSS 101 Invisible hinges. I was really worried I would muck them up. Made a fence jig for a trim router. Measured ten times and checked several more. I spent three hours making eight simple two depth mortises. Glad it is done.Click image for larger version

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Old 06-16-2020, 08:06 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by fryedaze View Post
Took the plunge and did the mortise for the SOSS 101 Invisible hinges. I was really worried I would muck them up. Made a fence jig for a trim router. Measured ten times and checked several more. I spent three hours making eight simple two depth mortises. Glad it is done.Attachment 103958Attachment 103959
Very nice work Dave .
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Old 06-16-2020, 08:08 PM   #25
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Took the plunge and did the mortise for the SOSS 101 Invisible hinges. I was really worried I would muck them up. Made a fence jig for a trim router. Measured ten times and checked several more. I spent three hours making eight simple two depth mortises. Glad it is done.Attachment 103958Attachment 103959
Don't you just love the sound of a router when plunging into $30/bf teak?
Great Job!
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Old 06-16-2020, 08:14 PM   #26
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Marty: i figured you & Heckrotte to be the woodworkers among us, turning your nose up at the thought of actually purchasing woodwork!

So what is your plan for that table? Where will it end up and with what kind of leg for support? Will you leave the finish as is?
The table top was only $203 at defender. I liked the design and it was beyond my skills as a woodworker. I bought a norsap twist lock base with fixed height pedestal that has a swivel for table top. I mounted it in the cockpit and bought another locking base for pilot house. I’ve got to work out the base mount in pilot house .
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Old 06-16-2020, 08:48 PM   #27
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The table top was only $203 at defender. I liked the design and it was beyond my skills as a woodworker. I bought a norsap twist lock base with fixed height pedestal that has a swivel for table top. I mounted it in the cockpit and bought another locking base for pilot house. I’ve got to work out the base mount in pilot house .
That's a cool table. Defender gave that away. The teak is worth more than $203
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Old 06-16-2020, 10:02 PM   #28
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To do an epoxy varnish finish.

After sanding and cleaning, I move the table top to a dust free area. I mix the epoxy gently to avoid air bubbles and pour the mixed epoxy on to the table top and use a WEST 809 notched spreader to spread it around evenly. I use the 1/8" side of the spreader. Scrape excess epoxy off the table top and away. The epoxy will level out and when tacky, apply another coat. Let dry overnight and sand with 100 grit paper working up to about 220 grit. Don't oversand and use a dust free sander.

I use a spreader instead of a roller because the roller will create fine air bubbles that will sometimes cloud the epoxy. The notched spreader insures an even coat.

Let the top sit about a week until the epoxy is completely cured.

Apply varnish of your choice. Two part polyurethane varnish would be the most durable and over the epoxy will look like it's 20 coats thick.
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Old 06-16-2020, 10:17 PM   #29
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To do an epoxy varnish finish.

After sanding and cleaning, I move the table top to a dust free area. I mix the epoxy gently to avoid air bubbles and pour the mixed epoxy on to the table top and use a WEST 809 notched spreader to spread it around evenly. I use the 1/8" side of the spreader. Scrape excess epoxy off the table top and away. The epoxy will level out and when tacky, apply another coat. Let dry overnight and sand with 100 grit paper working up to about 220 grit. Don't oversand and use a dust free sander.

I use a spreader instead of a roller because the roller will create fine air bubbles that will sometimes cloud the epoxy. The notched spreader insures an even coat.

Let the top sit about a week until the epoxy is completely cured.

Apply varnish of your choice. Two part polyurethane varnish would be the most durable and over the epoxy will look like it's 20 coats thick.
Syjos:

This tabletop folds over onto itself. No room for a thick surface finish as you are suggesting. Simple to finish with a good quality varnish, interior if away from teh sun, exterior, with UV inhibitors if exposed.
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Old 06-17-2020, 07:05 AM   #30
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Syjos:

This tabletop folds over onto itself. No room for a thick surface finish as you are suggesting. Simple to finish with a good quality varnish, interior if away from teh sun, exterior, with UV inhibitors if exposed.
Koliver, you just saved my bacon! I had not considers the build up thickness. I could have done the build up if I would have waited to miter the hinges in after finishing the table. In hind sight that is probably what should have happened. Details, details, details.
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Old 06-17-2020, 10:10 AM   #31
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Syjos:

This tabletop folds over onto itself. No room for a thick surface finish as you are suggesting. Simple to finish with a good quality varnish, interior if away from teh sun, exterior, with UV inhibitors if exposed.

I thought the OP was asking about WEST epoxy under the varnish.

The epoxy, after sanding, is not that thick but hinges and other hardware would require shimming.
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Old 06-17-2020, 10:41 AM   #32
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Koliver, you just saved my bacon! I had not considers the build up thickness. I could have done the build up if I would have waited to miter the hinges in after finishing the table. In hind sight that is probably what should have happened. Details, details, details.
Dave: You are welcome. I have done the mortising of hinges into $$$/bf teak, so I know you wouldn't want to have to move yours.
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Old 06-17-2020, 10:47 AM   #33
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Great work, Dave! I jig nearly all the time for routing.

Current project will require mortices for 34 butt hinges in Khaya (sold as African Mahogany). Two sizes of cabinet doors; three hinges on the tall and two on the short. I'll rout both door and cabinet at the same time.

A previous project, 4- 9'1" tall interior storm doors on splayed jambs, required an angled jig for the 12 butts.

I don't see any need for an epoxy seal coat / primer for an interior or exterior Teak table. 'Way too much like work! A tip: you can file the worst unevenness in the cured epocy, then use a scraper for most of the rest. Then wet sand to adequate perfection.

Marty, you really did do well with that purchase!
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Old 06-17-2020, 10:55 AM   #34
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I thought the OP was asking about WEST epoxy under the varnish.

The epoxy, after sanding, is not that thick but hinges and other hardware would require shimming.
Syjos, I was headed that way. It sounded like a good way to get a high build look. As for shimming, the hinge mortise is 1/8" from the edge. No margin to shim.
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Old 06-17-2020, 11:37 AM   #35
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Syjos, I was headed that way. It sounded like a good way to get a high build look. As for shimming, the hinge mortise is 1/8" from the edge. No margin to shim.
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Yes the epoxy gives it depth that varnish alone will not.
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Old 06-17-2020, 01:44 PM   #36
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Yes the epoxy gives it depth that varnish alone will not.
I think I will use the epoxy method on the one side of the leaves that will show when folded over. That won't unpack hinges. The table will be folded over 95% of the time.
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Old 06-17-2020, 02:14 PM   #37
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You do realize that if you coat the top with epoxy and varnish, the hinge mortise will get coated with an equal thickness of epoxy and varnish so the hinge will be level with top or close so shimming would not be required.

Just cleanup of the mortise edges with a chisel to square the sides and maybe the bottom to make sure hinge is level with top. Or a router if you used a gig.

Even just varnish will change the relationship of the hinge to the top surface.
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Old 06-17-2020, 03:09 PM   #38
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I appreciate the help, thanks. I think the only thing I can adjust on the hinge is depth. That will account for any increase on the end edge.
The surface that is visible when the table is fully open can not be built up because I can't (don't want to) move the hinge toward that 1/8" thin edge of the mortise.
I can build up the folded over top without impacting hinges.Click image for larger version

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Old 06-17-2020, 04:07 PM   #39
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You guys have infinitely better woodworking skills than I will ever possess. I'm impressed!

I stick to local charts under epoxy on 22" rounds. I got tired of the big table too.
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Old 06-19-2020, 02:10 PM   #40
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Table Build Questions

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Pedestal enclosure glue up pic.Attachment 103840
I hate my wrestle in place table setup and have been gnashing my teeth at the cost and limits of what I've found pre-fab on the internet.

You are definitely NOT a hack... I am going to brave up and attempt this also. The pedestal enclosure looks really great.

Question: How do you access the locking clamps for the pesetal with the pedestal cover boxes in place? Am I missing something obvious?

David
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