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04-07-2017, 05:35 PM
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#22
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Guru
City: Philadelphia, PA
Vessel Name: Revel
Vessel Model: 1984 Fu Hwa 39
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,024
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Just make a new one in Teak. Buy a nice new 60+ tooth carbide blade, though; the multiple cross cuts will need to be clean and precise w/o chips.
Alternatives to actually expecting each half lap to fit perfectly include grooving or routing at 90deg from opposite faces. The intersecting grooves would cause a drain hole at each crossing. The wood that spans the whole width (or length) would be doing all the work of carrying your weight and cracking along the grain would best be controlled by 'breadboarding' across the end grain.
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04-07-2017, 06:10 PM
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#23
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TF Site Team
City: Seneca Lake NY
Vessel Name: Bacchus
Vessel Model: MS 34 HT Trawler
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 7,828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M
Thanks Allan: How stiff is the 1"? The grate I have now is 15/16". The longest dimension is 24".
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If stiffness / sag is a concern instead of going thicker why not add a rubber bumper or two or three on the bottom(w SS screws) to cut the span? Drainage still not hampered.
__________________
Don
2008 MS 34 HT Trawler
"Bacchus"
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04-07-2017, 08:15 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
City: Oriental, NC
Vessel Name: M/V Major Award
Vessel Model: Senator 35 w/single Lehman
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 423
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Use Starboard and support to the pan/hull if needed. 1"T and put whatever hole or slot pattern is easiest for you. Clean with as nasty as stuff as you want. It will still be their when your great grand children get the boat and ask "what is that stuff?"
__________________
It is not who is right...it is who is left.
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04-08-2017, 08:36 AM
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#25
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Guru
City: Cary, NC
Vessel Name: Skinny Dippin'
Vessel Model: Navigator 4200 Classic
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,841
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I wonder if a Florida boat salvage place would an exact replacement or one that could be easily modified to fit? Worth a shot maybe.
__________________
2000 Navigator 4200 Classic
(NOT a trawler)
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04-08-2017, 09:16 AM
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#26
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom.B
I wonder if a Florida boat salvage place would an exact replacement or one that could be easily modified to fit? Worth a shot maybe.
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That is an option but I guess the word is "easily" modified. We looked in Fort Pierce at Marine Connection Liquidators. I could buy teak grating for ~$100. We'll look at Sailors Exchange in St Augustine when we go through next month.
We have a good friend who has a wood working shop and I'll talk to him and see what his thoughts are.
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04-16-2017, 07:18 PM
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#27
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Guru
City: East Coast
Vessel Name: M/V Maerin (Sold)
Vessel Model: Solo 4303
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 886
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Sailor's Exchange does have teak grating, I also would like to replace my missing shower grate and was looking. The problem I saw with the pre-made grating is creating the border. I'm sure it wouldn't be much of a problem if one had a basic woodworking shop. I don't think a Fein tool, as versatile as that is- quite cuts it.
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04-17-2017, 07:00 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
City: Poulsbo, WA
Vessel Name: M/V Knot Knormal
Vessel Model: President 41
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M
After 30 years our teak shower grate needs to be replaced. The grate now is about 15/16" thick and ~2' x 2'. Suggestions? Teak? Starboard? Thickness?
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In a completely unrelated thread a mention was made of www.buckwoodcraft.com and I saw Shower Grates.
So there ya go!
Marty.........................
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04-18-2017, 06:55 AM
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#29
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartySchwartz
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Thanks! Here's our grate! I sent an email asking for a quote.
Custom King Starboard Cockpit & Shower Grates
You have like this place.
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04-18-2017, 08:39 AM
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#30
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Guru
City: Cypress Landing Marina (NC)
Vessel Name: Heron (2)
Vessel Model: '88 Cape Dory 28 Flybridge #115
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartySchwartz
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Perfect! I've had John at Buckwoodcraft make some custom parts for me. Great to deal with and excellent quality..
__________________
Steve
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04-18-2017, 10:09 AM
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#31
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,871
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Why does it need to be replaced? How about sanding it and refinishing it? Running it through a planer?
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04-18-2017, 10:19 AM
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#32
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesK
Why does it need to be replaced? How about sanding it and refinishing it? Running it through a planer?
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Two of the slats are cracked. I screwed a cleat on the bottom to keep them from breaking all the way through (left side of photo). I've also repaired a few areas of rot where the grate meets the wide perimiter. I could keep doing repairs but I think it's time to replace it.
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04-18-2017, 10:21 AM
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#33
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heron
Perfect! I've had John at Buckwoodcraft make some custom parts for me. Great to deal with and excellent quality..
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That's good to hear!
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04-24-2017, 03:54 PM
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#34
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M
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I received a quote back for one inch within 2 hours from Buck Woodcraft. I later asked for a quote for 3/4".
Hi Larry,
Thanks much for your inquiry.
Based on the photo you sent along, your 2 longest dimensions appear to be approximately 24” each. Given those measurements, and fabricating your grate out of 1” thick King Starboard Anti Skid, your cost will be $388.13 + shipping via UPS Ground to zip 32110 + Florida sales tax. Our online shipping calculator estimates the shipping cost at $57 and change, which seems high. If the actual shipping cost is less, we’ll charge less.
Production typically requires 10 – 15 business days from the time we receive the order.
I then asked about 3/4" material.
Hi Larry,
The shower grate would be $313.00 out of ¾” AS. Plus Shipping, shipping should be a little less because weight will be a little less.
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04-24-2017, 03:58 PM
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#35
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,683
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I asked for a quote from Custom Teak Marine Woodwork. Six days to get the quote back.
Custom Teak Marine Woodwork by Custom Teak Marine, Inc
Hello Larry,
Your inquiry is most appreciated.
Solid Teak Grate – 1” T x 24” W x 24” L (per clients template):
·Materials of construction will be solid First European Quality (FEQ) Teak Lumber 1” Thick.
·Borders are minimum 2” W x 1” T Solid Teak and are assembled via mortise and tenon joinery and waterproof glue.
·The longitudinal and perpendicular cross slats are Solid Teak 1” square with notches opposite and opposing at 1” intervals (double crown) so that when assembled will form a 1” thick assembly.
·The assembled notched slats are joined to the borders via mortise and tenon joinery and waterproof glue.
·The assembled grate is finish sanded and cleaned.
·A coating of “Penofin – Exterior Hardwood Formula” penetrating oil is applied to the final assembly.
Pricing:
Solid Teak Grate per the Above ------------------------------------------$480.00
FL Sales Tax ---------------------------------------------------------------------$ 33.60
Shipping & Packaging via UPS Ground ----------------------------------$ 86.00
Total Project -------------------------------------------------------------------$599.60
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04-24-2017, 05:20 PM
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#36
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Guru
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
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I am really surprised the starboard quotes were that high. Was he making a grate, or simply a floor with holes? If the quote was for a grate, I would suggest getting a quote for just a piece of starboard cut to size with a bunch of camfered holes drilled in it.
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04-24-2017, 06:20 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
City: Poulsbo, WA
Vessel Name: M/V Knot Knormal
Vessel Model: President 41
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 282
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US Plastics sells 1" starboard in a 48"x48" sheet for $205 so I am not really surprised the cost is that high. they sell the 3/4" sheet, same size, for $169. I do not know if this the the exact same material Buckwood uses but I would think the raw materials would be in the same price range. I am sure they get better prices since thy buy in larger quantity but then the labor involved in making that grate is not trivial either. I guess I see that pricing as about what I would expect since I could not make that nice a finished product for much less. Just some thoughts.
Marty....................
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04-24-2017, 06:37 PM
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#38
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,683
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Here's what their web site says.
" Grates are precision-cut on our CNC machine, with 3/4" diameter holes evenly spaced throughout the surface area. Unless otherwise specified all exposed edges are give a 1/8" radius.
Unless you specify otherwise, we add drainage channels to the reverse side of your grate."
I'm still going to talk to my wood working friend but I'm thinking that this is not just apiece of starboard with some holes drilled in it.
Custom King Starboard Cockpit & Shower Grates
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04-24-2017, 09:25 PM
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#39
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TF Site Team
City: California Delta
Vessel Name: FlyWright
Vessel Model: 1977 Marshall Californian 34 LRC
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 13,728
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I'd consider CPES epoxy then a nice coat of thicker epoxy to preserve what you have before considering replacement. It might be able to strengthen and beautify the teak with minimal investment of time or treasure, alleviating the need for replacement.
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04-25-2017, 10:43 AM
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#40
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyWright
I'd consider CPES epoxy then a nice coat of thicker epoxy to preserve what you have before considering replacement. It might be able to strengthen and beautify the teak with minimal investment of time or treasure, alleviating the need for replacement.
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Thanks for the suggestion but I've done the CPES twice. It looks like the grate is flexing allowing moisture in at the joints of the grate. Since we use the shower daily, the grate never really has time to dry out. When I've renewed the finish, every couple of years, I let it dry completely but the finish, over time, cracks at the joints with use. You can see one of the repairs where moisture got under the finish (upper left). It worked well but I'm afraid I have some soft spots in areas I can't see plus I suspect the dark areas under the finish will fail with time. Maybe if I lost a few pounds the grate wouldn't flex?
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