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Old 05-19-2018, 08:10 PM   #21
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Greetings,
Mr. W. Mr. AC raises a good point regarding grunge build up in the space created by the washers. How about...a thin nylon or starboard plate instead of the washers? No space. No stanchion base dinging up the teak AND you might even put a layer of butyl tape between the base and the plastic plate or not.
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:12 PM   #22
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Greetings,
Mr. W. Mr. AC raises a good point regarding grunge build up in the space created by the washers. How about...a thin nylon or starboard plate instead of the washers? No space. No stanchion base dinging up the teak AND you might even put a layer of butyl tape between the base and the plastic plate or not.







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Old 05-19-2018, 09:17 PM   #23
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Bolting to implants in the capping is impressive. Like dental implants. But I don`t get spacing the plate with washers so it sits above, rather than flush with the capping. I`d follow convention with a bedding material. Sika if I had to,but tough to remove, so something less permanent if available. Not silicone, of course.
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Old 05-19-2018, 10:49 PM   #24
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I think I might have eliminated the washers and put a thin layer of epoxy under the entire footprint of the base plate....tighten it down while the epoxy was still wet....wipe off whatever oozed out, and figure the epoxy will outlast the teak.... ( and me!)

However, kudos to the OP for trying something new and offering it up here for judgement.
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Old 05-20-2018, 07:11 AM   #25
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"I think I might have eliminated the washers and put a thin layer of epoxy under the entire footprint of the base plate....tighten it down while the epoxy was still wet....wipe off whatever oozed out, and figure the epoxy will outlast the teak.... ( and me!)"


Perhaps but nothing is "forever".


It would be pretty inexpensive to use a couple of layers of aluminum foil as a barrier when creating the epoxy spacer , removed before final assembly.
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Old 05-20-2018, 07:15 AM   #26
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It doesn't have to be "forever".....in 25 years my teeth will be in a jar next to my bed in the Shady Acres Nursing Home. I won't be worried about my teak rails and stanchions.
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Old 05-20-2019, 12:35 PM   #27
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A quick update on this 1-year later.
The mounting works great. I just took the rails off after a big rain, screw holes were dry.
The best part is that I'm varnishing right now, and I took my rails completely off in about 10 minutes with no butyl or caulk cleanup required. Minimal taping or brushing around stanchions. Plus you get a complete varnish coat with nowhere for water to start to get under.
I'll put new washers in there this year when I put them back on, but that's about it. It's legit. I'll probably do it to my upper rails too, which I had butyl'd last year.
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Old 05-20-2019, 01:07 PM   #28
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Westiculo,
I love things like this.
It’s not perfect as the stanchion plate is weakened a little re bending under stanchion side loads. May not be an issue depending on the strength of the mounting plate and other variables.

My cap rail and FG hull flanges (under the cap rail) are tapped for the long machine screws that hold the stanchion flanges. I use SikaFlex 291 bedding compound under and as far as I know all is well.
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