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Old 06-26-2017, 10:05 PM   #1
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model name badges clean up

I pulled the two name plaques off the boat to clean up, pretty tarnished cast bronze plates. After much elbow grease and soaking in various solutions, (couldn't find any Brasso around), got them looking better and decided to paint the background to make the letters stand out. I like the look.
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:07 PM   #2
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Try using Coke next time!
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:21 PM   #3
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Never touch the stuff, so didn't occur to me. I know its good for dirty battery terminals, good for dirty bronze too?
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:31 PM   #4
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Never touch the stuff, so didn't occur to me. I know its good for dirty battery terminals, good for dirty bronze too?
Grab a couple of dirty/corroded pennies, or other coinage and throw them in a glass and cover them with Coke. The results will amaze you!
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Old 06-26-2017, 11:58 PM   #5
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They look good. Finicky work painting the black, I have boards with the letters picked out in yellow, takes time and a lot of panel rotating to do it right.
You should be able to varnish over the letters to keep them bright, I once did it on an outside brass door lock plate, it lasted well.
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Old 06-28-2017, 12:19 AM   #6
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Thanks Bruce! Put them back on the boat today, they look great.
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Old 06-28-2017, 07:06 PM   #7
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Brasso is available in hardware stores, home centers, Walmart, etc. It shouldn't be hard to find. I wouldn't mess with Coke as a cleaner.


Lacquer is the overcoating of choice for polished brass. Get a spray can and have at it.
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:05 PM   #8
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I couldn't find any within 10 miles so gave up, I know its around, just wasn't handy. I live in a small town....
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:55 PM   #9
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Greetings,
Mr. 78. I like the look. Some years ago I cleaned up the brass or bronze nameplates on our boat and dutifully gave them numerous coats of clear lacquer. Either I boat in a particularly toxic (to lacquer) area or I used the wrong lacquer. The nice shiny look lasted about 2 years. They've gone brown (oxidized) but haven't developed a green (verdigris) color yet.
In a previous life I found the absolute best cleaner for brass/bronze to be nitric acid (dilute). I would not recommend using this due to the extreme danger even if it was available. I think next time I'll try the Coke.
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:59 PM   #10
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I couldn't find any within 10 miles so gave up, I know its around, just wasn't handy. I live in a small town....
Redoing my teak nameboards I paint the letters in gloss oil paint and varnish the whole board, numbers and all,with clear Cetol gloss multiple coats. You don`t need spray lacquer, brush varnish the letters with a clear product, any that gets on the background won`t matter.
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:33 PM   #11
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I read this and smiled- I recently restored my logo flags on my Solo/Selene. They're bronze with enameled highlights, about 11" across, 1ea P/S. I stripped the old stuff off with paint stripper, cleaned them in a muriatic acid wash, then buffed with scotchbrite pads. I darkened the bronze with brass antiquing solution followed with a neutralizing baking soda rinse. It also acts as a sort of primer.

Painting the colored parts is super tedious, I'm no sign painter! I used "1-Shot" sign paint with hardener added. After allowing the paint to cure, I top coated both sides of the pieces with "Protecta-Clear" to seal it. I've used the product in the past, it does everything it claims. I used it on the logo badges before, the Protecta-Clear was still good after 5 yrs. exposure, the underlying paint, not so much! I hadn't used 1-Shot the last time they were done, so I'm hopeful that it, helped with the hardener, will last.

But for any exposed brass/bronze/copper or metal in general, the Protecta-Clear is really excellent. I used it on a brass Weems & Plath lamp 5 yrs ago. There are some minor spots that are getting dark, but it remains bright. The key is the prep, and it must be perfectly clean, no acid, no fingerprints! The spray is self-leveling, very forgiving, and it's worlds better than spray lacquer or any product you'll find in the home stores. Great stuff! Only caution is use as a clear coat over enamel, the enamel should have a hardener added and allowed to fully cure or there's a risk the clear coat will wrinkle the enamel. Yep, I did that detail painting TWICE!
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