Matching Up Non-Skid Paint

[tgotch]

I am thinking of tackling a small wet section of my foredeck. The section is about a 12"x12" that needs the core replaced. My question is, what is the best way to match up the non-skid paint after core is replaced, and re-glassed? Do I need to sand down the entire deck and repain with something like kiwigrip? Or is there any easier way?

I have watched many videos on youtube (boatworks today, etc.) about replacing the core, but can't seem to find anything about doing the non-skid.

 

[garbler]

First off your patch will always be noticeable until it gets dirty and worn a bit but here is the the process I used when I was in the business.

Color and pigments react differently especially blues, reds and variation due to fade but here is what has worked in the past. First try to locate the same paint and preferable same batch or better yet can. Use only the same non-skid compound as the profile makes all the difference. Apply two or more coats on the patch zone for a build up and good base. Use no Compound on these base coats.

No need to sand adjoining areas as a good bond can be achieved with 10-15% MEK added to your paint. This is a nasty solvent but necessary for a secondary bond of this type. Lay down a thick coat on the patch and try to push the paint out onto to surrounding deck surface but lightly to feather, you don’t want to fill in the existing non-skid profile around the edges. Do Not mix the compound with the paint always paint first and while wet or very tacky sprinkle the compound trying to match the density. We always used powder sugar sifters or a can with hole punched in the top. Let the paint set up then vacuum off excess.

Apply one or two coats of 20% thinned paint over your new non-skid and again feather it out into the edges. Let the job fully cure a few days or more depending on weather. The patch will be brighter and obvious so the next move is to wet the patch area and sprinkle with a cleanser like Comet and with a deck brush scrub it good let it bleach a while a rinse. Let it dry and see if you need another scrub. It may look good but if still not happy use some Bar Keepers cleaner ( oxalic acid ) on a larger area of the deck. Wet it, sprinkle and brush. Let stand fifteen minutes depending on heat but don’t let it dry. Sunshine accelerates oxalic acid so best to use on a bright day. This should get you close.

Good luck
Rick

 

[Comodave]

If the nonskid has a pattern to it it is almost impossible to match it without making a mold and using the mold to match the old nonskid. Some pro can do it but it is very time consuming. Our last boat had some core replaced. They did a fairly good job by cutting around the patterned nonskid with a thin kerf saw. The replaced the core and then epoxied the deck back in. Filled the saw kerf with probably some thickened epoxy. Looked ok when I bought the boat but over time the saw kerf started cracking loose since there was no fiberglass over the cuts. I ended up sanding off all the nonskid, grinding out the saw kerfs and laying 1708 fiberglass over the kerfs. Then I painted the whole deck with Kiwigrip. It was a lot of work, the sanding off the nonskid part. But we loved the Kiwigrip nonskid. It can be made as aggressive as you want it depending on how you paint it on. The only bad thing was that the aggressive nonskid tended to trap dirt and was difficult to keep clean. I started using Woody Wax on the Kiwigrip and it made it much easier to clean. We just had our current boat waxed and I had them use Woody Wax on the nonskid areas. It makes it easier to keep clean and isn’t slippery once it dries. When you first apply WW it is extremely slippery so be careful until it dries.

 

[sean9c]

Is it paint or gelcoat? Doesn't really matter, in non-skid both are about impossible to match and blend in. Same with the non-skid pattern. If it's some molded in waffle type pattern you can go to a bunch of trouble to make a mold of the pattern and use that to make replacement panels but it's a lot of work. If it's sand or some grit type it'll be impossible to match and blend in. There is no easy answer. Best and easiest is to grind it flat and start over