Main door pealing framework

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HARDWORK

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Joined
Dec 25, 2019
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3
Location
USA
Any suggestions how to fix the outside door framework that is peeling? 2004 Mainship Trawler.
See photo attached.
Thanks
 

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Welcome aboard. Is it aluminum? If so it is going to be very difficult to get any paint to stick to the corroded area. You will need to clean every bit of corrosion off the area and prime with the correct primer before oainting but even then it will probably come back. Sorry.
 
Could be power coat. That means removing the door and frame and send it to a powder coat shop
 
Common issue with painted aluminum. Remove all loose paint, sand corroded area smooth (200 grit or finer), wipe with paint thinner to remove any grease, two coats with etching aluminium primer followed by two top coats. This will last several years.
 
Could be power coat. That means removing the door and frame and send it to a powder coat shop

Whether Powder Coat or regular paint, Aluminum sheds it. I have some of each on my boat. he regular paint lasts about teh same no of years as the PC. Far easier to just paint, as suggested above, than to remove and take to a PC shop. hen in a few ore years, do it again when it needs it.
 
Painting aluminum is a mug’s game, it looks good for a while then it corrodes off, making a mess of the surface. Always. Aluminum forms a coating of aluminum oxide which is excellent for being corrosion proof. Many of us like the grey patina, which is the metal being bulletproof. Paint it, all bets are off. In fact, two layers of al or any kind of coating, it rots.

Don’t paint aluminum!
 
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Peeling paint on aluminum/aluminium cases of Muir windlasses prove the point. Muir switched to composite. I refinished a Muir al. case, got the etch primer on immediately after sanding, it still corroded and bubbled.
 
I had my aluminum dinghy davits sandblasted then I painted them with epoxy paint. That was about 10 years ago and they still look pretty good.
But they get covered in the winter under shrink wrap.
 
Years ago I had a boat with an I/O that was corroding pretty good. I cleaned up the outdrive and painted it with some barrier coating epoxy I had than I painted it with black enamal paint. It held up very good.
Yes, before I get slammed I know barrier coat is not for aluminum outdrives.
I'm just saying I tried it and it did work for me.
 
I couldn't find the original post, not sure if it was on this forum or another one, but I captured one owner's solution for my future use on my MS door. I have not tried it, and I do realize its probably only a temporary solution, but here it is:

"Well I did all my window frames and exterior light fixtures last year , and it is still looking very good this year

What I was recommended from a boat painting shop was sanding the best you can all that falling powder coating than put 2 coats of aluminum etching activator(the etching is the most important step) I was recommended activator 044 from pettit and than a 2 part polyurethane paint (Brightside)over the etching coating that matches you window frame color, Myself I did put 2-3 coats of it with a foam roller


it is looks and feel like a very hard finish that will last, I am very happy of the results
I will do the main door this fall"

Powder coating would be my first choice but to remove the frame, you would have to take off the doors and leave the boat open or try to seal up with plastic or something, not my desire to do that. Plus, the frame seems to be one piece, probably welded at the corners, and I don't have a way to transport something that large to a power coater. It looks really bad and I do want to do something.
 
Brightside is a 1 part poly paint, not a 2 part. I use it on my teak and am very happy with the finish.
 
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