Krogen 42 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Larry M]

John: The pictures are great. Thanks! Question though, did they secure the tanks to the front vertical members?

[FlyWright]

Originally Posted by cardude01

Man, you guys (gals) don't mess around on your projects! Looks like y'all are almost halfway done. Impressive.

Conversely, I will sit here for weeks stressing over painting my window frames. 😂

No kidding! Sheeeeesh!! I was just sitting here patting myself on the back for adding oil to the engines, checking water levels on all batteries and changing a water filter. Now I feel like a real slacker! I better get back to work!

Great thread, Larry!

[cardude01]

Originally Posted by FlyWright

No kidding! Sheeeeesh!! I was just sitting here patting myself on the back for adding oil to the engines, checking water levels on all batteries and changing a water filter. Now I feel like a real slacker! I better get back to work!



Great thread, Larry!

Tomorrow I might go to the boat to install a helm chair swivel, drink some beers, and search for boats on YW.

That's a big day.

😂

[GoldenDawn]

Larry,

I can't see any way that the front end of tank was secured other than the vertical posts visible in the photos. The insulation was already installed on the forward engine-room bulkhead prior to the new tank install. And I do not see any welded fittings on the new tanks that could be used to fasten to the bulkhead.

I haven't pulled off the sound proofing that covers the tanks. And they covered over the clean-outs. I have been dreading pulling off the sound proofing but need to access the clean-out soon as I have a bit of weeping - probably failure of the flange gasket.

Th attached shows the engine room looking forward. Fuel manifold and transfer pump at upper right. You can see the insulation over the tanks to the left. Getting to the clean-out is going to be a bit of a challenge.

[Larry M]

Originally Posted by GoldenDawn

...I can't see any way that the front end of tank was secured other than the vertical posts visible in the photos. The insulation was already installed on the forward engine-room bulkhead prior to the new tank install. And I do not see any welded fittings on the new tanks that could be used to fasten to the bulkhead...

Thanks. I think we'll reinstall ours similar to yours and the way they were installed at the factory other than adding air gaps with the GPO3. When we exposed the tanks there was a cleat at the top of the tanks to the floor above. That with the lip along the floor, the vertical posts and the aft end of the tanks being glassed to the hull, the boat could probably roll upside down and the tanks wouldn't move.

[mike66]

Let's hope not! Going to take in a Jaguars game while you're there? Thought I'd take your mind off of engine rooms for a few jours. Sue and I will be around after the 27th. We're all watching your progress, cause it's something we all face.
Fantastic how much you can from day to day.

[Keysdisease]

Is that an isolation medium of some kind at the top of the stanchion? Do the fasteners go through it? Nicely done KK

[Larry M]

Originally Posted by Keysdisease

Is that an isolation medium of some kind at the top of the stanchion? Do the fasteners go through it? Nicely done KK

Nothing as cool as an isolation mount, it's a piece of blue tape.

The stanchion is a floor support for the salon. When we removed both (one on either side) to pull the tanks, we were surprised that the floor didn't sag. I did put them back till the tanks go back in.

[Larry M]

Things you find that you shouldn't.

We've been doing clean up and renewing parts for the engine room before it all goes back together. I have been amazed on how many dropped nails we've found. This one came out of the sawdust by the forward tank end.

Today, we disassembled 3 raw water screens in the engine room to bead blast and replace the gaskets. On one, 4 of the 6 bolts broke off with little effort on the engine screen. Some crevice corrosion and crap SS. I wish I remembered where I bought the bronze nipple though. I installed it. More crap.

The thru-hull was a little unsettling. It had maybe 2 threads attached. Less than 2 turns and they were apart. Now is the time to find it; scary but it did last 29 years.

[Sealife]

Larry, remember we broke planer blades when peeling my hull, because a nail was embedded in the glass. They must have been throwing alot of nails around that place. I don't recall my thru hulls when I was ripping them out, but scary, goes to show you what you can get away with, with some good sealant, huH?!

[RNL]

Larry and others. Many thanks for sharing your experiences with your tank projects. As a fellow Krogen 42 owner this is invaluable as a resource if / when required. Thanks for the extra effort put forward to let us learn with and from you in this task. Well done.

Glen

[Moonstruck]

Larry, any word from Bomac?

[O C Diver]

Originally Posted by Larry M

Things you find that you shouldn't.

Today, we disassembled 3 raw water screens in the engine room to bead blast and replace the gaskets. On one, 4 of the 6 bolts broke off with little effort on the engine screen. Some crevice corrosion and crap SS. I wish I remembered where I bought the bronze nipple though. I installed it. More crap.

The thru-hull was a little unsettling. It had maybe 2 threads attached. Less than 2 turns and they were apart. Now is the time to find it; scary but it did last 29 years.

I'd like to tell you the wasting of that nipple is rare, but it's not. Unless you buy name brand (Groco or Buck Algonquin), a lot of the metal is junk from China ect., not quality bronze. Been that way for decades now.

That thru-hull would keep me awake at night. Mine are all threaded, bolted in place, with 5200. If the threads were to fail, the 5200 and bolted in place should keep the seacock secured to the hull. Disassembling and rebedding seacocks are high on my priority list for any boat purchase. I'm assuming that was done by KK? Are you going to be examining your other seacocks?

Ted

[Larry M]

Originally Posted by Sealife

Larry, remember we broke planer blades when peeling my hull, because a nail was embedded in the glass. They must have been throwing alot of nails around that place. I don't recall my thru hulls when I was ripping them out, but scary, goes to show you what you can get away with, with some good sealant, huH?!

I had no idea so many nails were used in the assembly; some interior wall coverings, rigid sound insulation, the plywood on the side of the tanks, the over heads in the engine room, plus other areas are/were all secured with ring nails. They sure dropped more than 1 or 2.

The thru hull penetration was done correctly through the core for what's that worth.

[Larry M]

Originally Posted by RNL

Larry and others. Many thanks for sharing your experiences with your tank projects. As a fellow Krogen 42 owner this is invaluable as a resource if / when required. Thanks for the extra effort put forward to let us learn with and from you in this task. Well done.

Glen

Thanks.

[Larry M]

Originally Posted by Moonstruck

Larry, any word from Bomac?

We should have an update next week.

[Larry M]

Originally Posted by O C Diver

I'd like to tell you the wasting of that nipple is rare, but it's not. Unless you buy name brand (Groco or Buck Algonquin), a lot of the metal is junk from China ect., not quality bronze. Been that way for decades now.

This was one of nipples that I bought and installed. Fortunately of the 3 assemblies that we took apart this was the only one that showed any dezincification

That thru-hull would keep me awake at night. Mine are all threaded, bolted in place, with 5200. If the threads were to fail, the 5200 and bolted in place should keep the seacock secured to the hull. Disassembling and rebedding seacocks are high on my priority list for any boat purchase. I'm assuming that was done by KK? Are you going to be examining your other seacocks? Ted

Assembly was done by KK. Of the 3 in the engine room, this was the only one that didn't have adequate threads. They will all go back with backing plates, 5200 and adequate thread lengths. The others are on the to-do list.

[mike66]

Larry, you and Lena stay safe, I hope Hobo is high enough out of any surge. Sue and I are holed up in Orlando, waiting to get back to Daytona. Maybe fortunate that you're laid up for repairs right now.

[angus99]

Originally Posted by Larry M

Assembly was done by KK. Of the 3 in the engine room, this was the only one that didn't have adequate threads. They will all go back with backing plates, 5200 and adequate thread lengths. The others are on the to-do list.

Larry, another option is to epoxy them in. I did this using Groco's flanged adapters and backing plates, which allow perfect thread-mating with the through hull and seacock. The backing plate is epoxied to the hull; the through hull and adapter are threaded together and bedded with 5200 and the adapter is also bolted to the backing plate. Finally, the seacock is simply threaded to the adapter, making the entire assembly very robust. A bonus is you can easily swap out the seacock, should it ever malfunction without disturbing the rest of the assembly.

(No affiliation with Groco, other than making a large contribution to their bottom line last year .)


We're very much hoping to hear good news about you, Lena and Hobo today.

[O C Diver]

Originally Posted by angus99

Nice mud wasp nest in the corner. Hope they were evicted.

Ted