Hydraulic steering rebuild

[Northern Spy]

Or bestest of all, put in the bypass line and valve and put a T with a bleeder in the bypass line. Fill the unit, open the bypass valve, crack the bleeder, and turn the wheel back and forth to get the air out.

 

[GregBrannon]

I just bled my system last weekend as part of my spring commissioning chores. This chore is not normally required but caused by my own stupidity - another story. My system has the purge valves which are opened by loosening a couple screws on a junction and bleeders on the slave cylinder, the one at the back of the boat that turns the rudders. I'm surprised your slave cylinder doesn't have bleed screws, one at each end. Look again.

With 35psi on the system and purge valves open, turning the helms the required number of turns caused no fluid to leave the system. Opening the bleeders on the slave cylinder caused a quick 'pfft' of air followed by a slow ooze of fluid that was easily stopped by tightening the bleed screw. I had an oil absorbing towel ready but a shop paper towel would have done the trick. No muss, no fuss. It takes time but was surprisingly easy.

Good luck!

 

[Lou_tribal]

I just bled my system last weekend as part of my spring commissioning chores. This chore is not normally required but caused by my own stupidity - another story. My system has the purge valves which are opened by loosening a couple screws on a junction and bleeders on the slave cylinder, the one at the back of the boat that turns the rudders. I'm surprised your slave cylinder doesn't have bleed screws, one at each end. Look again.

With 35psi on the system and purge valves open, turning the helms the required number of turns caused no fluid to leave the system. Opening the bleeders on the slave cylinder caused a quick 'pfft' of air followed by a slow ooze of fluid that was easily stopped by tightening the bleed screw. I had an oil absorbing towel ready but a shop paper towel would have done the trick. No muss, no fuss. It takes time but was surprisingly easy.

Good luck!

I swear I have no bleed valve your honor Seriously I posted a picture in post 18 of this thread and this is how it was mounted, no bleed screw. However it would be a very nice addition I totally agree ! Though I will need to find them nearby or order them on the web. I will take a look around.

L.

 

[GregBrannon]

Yep, sorry I didn't see that picture before posting. I read the first 10 posts or so and then skipped to the punchline. My slave cylinder looks very different, old school with large square pieces at each end of the cylinder. There's a bleed screw in the top of each of the square pieces. Cracking your hose fitting just enough to let the air out should be equivalent to my bleed screws. Having an alternative would be nice, but you shouldn't be doing this often.

 

[Brooksie]

I know several people here have told you that you should have connecting hoses between your copper lines and your cylinder. Not necessarily, the cylinder moves very little in operation, hoses are not necessary. One port maybe 1/2" and the other maybe 1". Connecting hoses are subject to their own set of problems. Some responders have mentioned blown hoses in their posts here. If the copper lines are properly installed, I see no reason to add more complication and fittings to the system. My lobsterboat's Wagner system was installed in 1972 with copper lines going directly to the cylinder, and is still going strong.

 

[Avalanche]

Anyone recognize this cylinder? It looks like the old Wagner series except the rod passes through the back of it. I'd like to replace or it find a different option to replace that is a somewhat straightforward swap before this one fails. No leaks, but the corrosion does not leave me feeling warm and fuzzy..

 

[Simi 60]

Why not take it out, clean it, hit it with phosphoric acid to nuetralise/convert the rust and then paint with epoxy enamel paint like killrust?

I am about to do mine in the next few days.
Did the seals a few mths back but didn't have the time to paint then.

 

[Salish Nomad]

Hydraulic steering fluid

I would not use ATF if you are in a cold climate. I would instead use a temperature stabilized aviation hydraulic oil mil. spec. 5606A.
ATF will make your steering "stiff" in cold weather.

 

[Lepke]

My Wagner steering is about 45 years old. I rebuilt my cylinder and it's simple. If you buy a kit, instructions come included.
Old cylinder: In steering systems, the cylinder is almost always made by the helm pump manufacturer.
On the US West Coast this is the dealer:

Hamilton Jet USA.
14680 NE N Woodinville Way
Suite 100
Woodinville, WA 98072
Tel: 425-527-3000
Fax: 425-527-9188
E-mail: marketing@hamiltonjet.com

 

[Lou_tribal]

I got the cylinder seals changed and the guy at the shop told me to do it myself next time (at least he is honest has he has better to do then doing my small tiny cylinder lol). He told me it is very simple and indeed it is, unscrew, tear off, replace the seal, put back in place, done. Hopefully next time will not come too soon.
On another note I took the opportunity to change the 2 compression fittings as they were marked (maybe tight too much), from then no leak at all and the steering feels better than ever.

L.

 

[Turner]

I recently replaced my old Wagner cylinder on my 30 ft. Sundowner and was pleasantly surprised with the huge difference it made. Found it from ASAP Supply Ltd. $457 including shipping, arrived in 5 days from England. Steering extremely responsive, 4 1/2 rotations from full portside to full starboard. If rebuild or repair doesn't work fix it, check them out.

 

[D.Duck44]

Avalanche,
It looks like that cylinder is a Hydrive :Home Page - HyDrive
If you send them a picture they will be able to confirm.
We have one that looks identical to that but is in brass and stainless. It has sat on the transom of our yacht, out in the weather for thirty years.
Don't understand why they would make one from steel.

 

[D.Duck44]