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Old 10-31-2022, 10:48 AM   #21
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Thanks, good advice!
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Old 10-31-2022, 10:54 AM   #22
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Thanks but again this will be sprayed by a professional
You pick the color. Let the professional pick the paint. He has to be more familiar / comfortable with certain brands
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Old 11-04-2022, 04:45 PM   #23
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Jotun is the go to paint for me, it just has the legs of longevity and strength of elephant skin on a boat two coats high build Jotun primer and 3 coats of Jotun imprite 2000 on top, I’m ten years into a well used boat and she still shines all be it she would like nice with a fresh coat of Jotun to but 10 years is damn good in my book And you won’t find better value it’s what’s used on ships and commercially in Europe and gaining large traction in Australia and we are a test bed in Oz for paint, dosent get much harsher than down under
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Old 11-04-2022, 09:05 PM   #24
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Yards often use the words Awlgrip when they mean Awlcraft, so be careful and make certain you know what you are getting. More on the subject here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/w...s-Awlcraft.pdf
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Old 11-05-2022, 07:29 AM   #25
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Great article, thanks Steve!
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Old 11-06-2022, 12:19 PM   #26
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Hull paint

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Thanks but again this will be sprayed by a professional
I just got some fiberglass work done 3 weeks ago. They used awlgrip. It came out beautifully!!! The quote to do hull paint was about 500.00 a foot using awlgrip.
Topside was about 1000.00 a foot.
Did I tell you the awlgrip looks amazing!!
Good luck
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Old 11-06-2022, 01:26 PM   #27
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Hey Guys and Gals...!!

Not meaning to hijack this "Boat Hull-Paint" thread. And, some of my question could relate to paint choice for boats too:

So... I have a 1 ton commercial truck that needs paint. Cost to do so in paint shop is over-the-top$$$$!! Have seen newly painted boat photos [some on this thread] that look great! Can you recommend the boat "hull paint" that is best for withstanding minor abrasions... and that will take a shine after time has dulled its finish?

Thanks! - Art
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Old 11-06-2022, 06:16 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Steve DAntonio View Post
Yards often use the words Awlgrip when they mean Awlcraft, so be careful and make certain you know what you are getting. More on the subject here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/w...s-Awlcraft.pdf
Excellent information, clear and easy to understand, thank you!
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Old 11-06-2022, 08:08 PM   #29
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Yards often use the words Awlgrip when they mean Awlcraft, so be careful and make certain you know what you are getting. More on the subject here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/w...s-Awlcraft.pdf
Thanks, Steve! I read the article. Plan to purchase some Awlgrip for brush on test application on my const trucks. May be an affordable way to take a good running older work truck and make it look good also.
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Old 11-07-2022, 09:20 AM   #30
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Thanks, Steve! I read the article. Plan to purchase some Awlgrip for brush on test application on my const trucks. May be an affordable way to take a good running older work truck and make it look good also.
While the awlgrip would be a very durable finish, there may be some more cost effective alternatives.
Most, if not all, paint manufacturers have “fleet” paints available. I’d sure hesitate to apply paint at $1000/gal to a work truck. Even stuff like ppg delfleet is expensive enough and will provide a finish that’ll hold up for many years, but is significantly less expensive than awlgrip, or imron, or other polyester urethanes. Plus, they’re repairable, which means you can cut and buff a run or other defect that happens during application.
Many times, when doing more industrial type finishes, I’ll use a “good” quality industrial enamel, and add hardener to it to get better gloss and hardness to the surface. Not exactly recommended by paint reps, but decades of experience doing it has provided the confidence to use the technique.
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Old 11-07-2022, 12:34 PM   #31
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I really like Awlgrip products. It is hard and will last a long, long, time.

As has been mentioned, repairs have to be done in panels, or if the hull is planked, you can just tape a blank.

Kind of a no brainer if your doing a solid color. Metallics and such require a really good yard.

As a painter I can spot a roll and tip job from a mile off. If your going with pros check their work, really close, touch it. Look around railings, vents, etc. I just looked at a mid 70s Hatteras cruiser that had been restored. Workmanship was incredible. You had to look very hard to find a tape line. Probably a $50k paint job on a 40 something boat.
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Old 11-07-2022, 07:58 PM   #32
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Thanks, Steve! I read the article. Plan to purchase some Awlgrip for brush on test application on my const trucks. May be an affordable way to take a good running older work truck and make it look good also.
I've seen painters work miracles with tipping and rolling.
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Old 11-07-2022, 08:01 PM   #33
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I really like Awlgrip products. It is hard and will last a long, long, time.

As has been mentioned, repairs have to be done in panels, or if the hull is planked, you can just tape a blank.

Kind of a no brainer if your doing a solid color. Metallics and such require a really good yard.

As a painter I can spot a roll and tip job from a mile off. If your going with pros check their work, really close, touch it. Look around railings, vents, etc. I just looked at a mid 70s Hatteras cruiser that had been restored. Workmanship was incredible. You had to look very hard to find a tape line. Probably a $50k paint job on a 40 something boat.
Well said, the best, longest lasting paint jobs involve removal of most if not all hardware, making for a contiguous coating. Taping around hardware is faster, and cheaper, and as long as you know this is what you are getting that's OK, but it is not the same as hardware removal.
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Old 11-07-2022, 08:18 PM   #34
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I've seen painters work miracles with tipping and rolling.
I saw a small boat whose wood hull had recently been rolled and tipped. Simply beautiful!

Will say though! I'm overjoyed that our 45 yr. old Tolly [1977] still holds a great original gel coat surface that shines brightly with a good buff and wax job.
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Old 11-18-2022, 10:36 AM   #35
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I used Interlux Perfection. Made for roll and tip applications. Use only their reducers and thinners. Great flow out. Recommend three thin coats. First coat will be pretty translucent. Second coat covers great. Third coat for the finish. Hard as a rock when cured. Will keep tightening and Harding for a week. Don't chase runs. Sand them out the next day before the next coat.
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Old 11-18-2022, 11:53 AM   #36
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Great advise to any boatowner would be to do everything you can to keep the original gelcoat

Quote:
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I saw a small boat whose wood hull had recently been rolled and tipped. Simply beautiful!

Will say though! I'm overjoyed that our 45 yr. old Tolly [1977] still holds a great original gel coat surface that shines brightly with a good buff and wax job.
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