How to remove airmar thru-hull housing for depth sensor

[Datenight]

Remove any nuts you can, use a heat gun to heat the fitting and 5200. Once warm, steady pressure with your foot will push it right out. I have done it that way twice.

Rob

 

[Takoradi]

FWIW, There are 2 ancient transducers supporting 2 flasher fishfinders on my new to me Uniflite. Located in aft portion of ER. As I contemplated replacing them, I realized my new chirp transducer could not be located in the ER because chirpers are heat sensitive. Found a more suitable location just fore of amidship and left old ones in place. They’re not bothering anything there and the more forward position will show me more of where I’m going as opposed to where I’ve been!

Tak

 

[silentfaith]

The airmar old speed wheel nobody uses anymore is the same as the raymarine sd40 depth transducer. I was elated when noticed i could remove the speed wheel and plug the depth transducer into the same hole and screw it in. It did stick out the bottom about i/8 inch so i tapered to hull with 5200. works great.

 

[ScottC]

The airmar old speed wheel nobody uses anymore is the same as the raymarine sd40 depth transducer. I was elated when noticed i could remove the speed wheel and plug the depth transducer into the same hole and screw it in. It did stick out the bottom about i/8 inch so i tapered to hull with 5200. works great.

Hi SilentFaith,
I’m wondering about your speed wheel comment. Why are these no longer used? Is there a better transducer/technology? I have one (Airmar) and rely on it quite a bit to understand my speed through the water, which helps me determine the current. The wheels are indeed ”finicky” in that they are easily fouled by weeds, etc.

 

[Swfla]

Hey RomanP, what have you done about your situation. You got lots of opinions from us. How about an update?

 

[DDW]

I've used two methods to do this. One is stacking the hole saws, one inside to guide and one the size hole you want (can be the same as existing). This is a little messy but it works. The other method is to make a rudimentary puller, say a piece of metal with blocking on the outside of the hull bridging the fitting and some all thread running though to the inside. Apply pressure extracting the fitting, then walk away for a couple of hours. Come back and tighten the nut, walk away again. 5200 is very tough, but it will creep. This method may take all day, or even two.

I've tried the multitool but if the fitting is well glued in, it can still be very hard work getting the pieces to come out.

 

[Romanp]

Hey RomanP, what have you done about your situation. You got lots of opinions from us. How about an update?

Based on all the comments I've read, the most suitable solution for me is to install inhull P79 tranducer. People who have it say that it works just fine. I'll leave removal of the in-hull sensor for the future, when I'll decide to upgrade all my fish finders and plotters to the latest technology with CHRP, then I'll try heating it first and pushing it out, if that won't work, then sawing it into pieces would be the solution.

Thank you all for your feedback, it really means a lot to me !