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Old 01-21-2019, 06:11 PM   #1
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How I Fixed The Bungs on a Teak Deck

I was cleaning out my photos and came across these:

Basically, if your bungs are failing and therefore possibly leaking into the core of the decks, they need to be replaced. Another issue is thin decks; after years of teak cleaners and sanding they are thin enough that the screw heads are very close to the surface. If the decks still have some thickness, you can drill the holes deeper and reset the fasteners.

One of the problems with teak decks is the use of stainless fasteners. If you enclose them such that 02 can't get at them, then get them wet, they will bleed a black liquid that will stain the decks. My solution was to change the fasteners to bronze, which is entirely your discretion if you wish to reuse the old screws as you will be re-sealing the holes...

The first picture shows the bung I wish to change. Its not as bad as many of the others were, for sure, this one could have been left. The rest is pretty self-explanatory. I'll post the rest of the photos anon. Oh, that's the small blade on a Swiss Army knife, that's all I used.
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Old 01-22-2019, 01:11 AM   #2
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I used a nice Lee Valley drill that was wood-screw-shaped and also had a countersink. I used white waterproof glue to set the screw in and the same glue to set the bung. The final picture is me using a Japanese pull-saw to cut the set bung flush. You can see that no sanding is required (remember you are doing this job because the decks are too thin).

That's it, except for seams, which I did not photograph.
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Old 01-22-2019, 05:24 AM   #3
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Nice tutorial XS. Thank you. What are your thoughts on removing the bung and screw, countersinking as you did, but filling with epoxy using a syringe instead of reinstalling the screw. Then pop in the bung. The epoxy would probably do a fine job of holding the teak in place and provide a better seal.
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:30 AM   #4
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"The epoxy would probably do a fine job of holding the teak in place and provide a better seal."


Perhaps but it will destroy the planking when a leak requires its removal.


Dipping the bung in varnish will seal it and they can usually be removed by driving a screw into the center.
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Old 01-25-2019, 06:16 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xsbank View Post
I was cleaning out my photos and came across these:

The first picture shows the bung I wish to change. Its not as bad as many of the others were, for sure, this one could have been left.
Have to ask, what was wrong/happening with that bung? Was it leaking? Taking longer to dry than others after wetting? Looks good from my house but my house is a long way from your boat . I do see a slightly thicker surround but...???
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Old 01-25-2019, 07:05 AM   #6
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A good Canuck should use Roberts head screws.
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Old 01-25-2019, 07:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
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"The epoxy would probably do a fine job of holding the teak in place and provide a better seal."


Perhaps but it will destroy the planking when a leak requires its removal.


Dipping the bung in varnish will seal it and they can usually be removed by driving a screw into the center.
I wouldn’t put the bung in the epoxy. Wait for epoxy to cure then put in the bung with varnish or glue. Thoughts?
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Old 01-25-2019, 08:12 AM   #8
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"Wait for epoxy to cure then put in the bung with varnish or glue. Thoughts?"

Epoxy is a great glue , what is frequently needed is a shim of wood to assist an old screw hole to hold the screw that pulls the wood to the deck .

Any waterproof glue will do , and allow the hold down screw to be removed.


The single kerf saw shown is a great tool , not only for deck work.
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Old 01-25-2019, 08:31 AM   #9
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F.F. So my thought process is to eliminate the screw altogether as water can always find its way around a screw. Fill the whole with epoxy up to the bottom of the countersink. This will pretty much assure no leaks in that hole (at least in my lifetime). When epoxy is cured pound in the bung with a little varnish / glue. Not arguing but looking for another view point. Happy to have you poke holes in my theory.
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Old 01-25-2019, 08:56 AM   #10
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Xsbank: The only thing I will add is a lot of the plugs I replace come out because of thickness lost in the deck. We still have 3/8” plus deck thickness but when the deck was installed 32 years ago some of the holes for the plugs weren’t very deep. When ever I replace a plug I also redrill/deepen the hole the plug goes into plus use a 3/4” number 8 screw to replace the 1” number 8. You can buy these or an equivalent at most wood working supply stores.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:51 AM   #11
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Those are similar drills to what I used. The local chandlery had a 5 gallon pail of silicon bronze wood screws which I bought by the pound. It’s true that I would have preferred Robertson head but these are all that were available then.

That bung was good but many around it weren’t so I did them all. Did the seams too but no photos.
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Old 01-26-2019, 07:54 AM   #12
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"So my thought process is to eliminate the screw altogether as water can always find its way around a screw."

Yes all screws , every screw under the teak coating can be a leak..

The purpose of the screw is to hold the coating of teak tight to the deck , hopefully to be water tight .The goop between the wood pieces is also an attempt to keep water from running under the teak.

Sadly some of the TT I have repaired use wide teak planking with bungs that are for looks only ,only one screw in a dozen, as well as seams that are routed in the plank , again just for looks.
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Old 01-26-2019, 08:18 AM   #13
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i may try to save my decks what size drill and countersink did you use ? where is the best place in the us to get the bungs and screws ?

all my bungs are missing where the for-deck starts . i wonder if the floor wore more there or if those bungs were shallower than the rest .
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Old 01-26-2019, 08:44 AM   #14
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The pictures I posted previously are for 3/8” counter sink that I can adjust the depth. The plugs I make but you can buy them on line, try eBay. They should be less than $0.10/plug for the tapered ones. Our decks were done with number 8 x 1” screws that I replace with number 8 by 3/4”.

Here’s a source for counter sinks although I’ve never used them. They do say you can adjust the depth. I’m sure eBay also carries some.

https://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bi...d-countersinks

If a 3/8” hole is buggererd up, I go up to a 1/2” hole, a larger screw and bung.

I have a plug box that keeps things together since bungs are an ongoing maintenance item on Hobo. Once you get going, the replacement goes pretty fast.
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:40 AM   #15
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thanks i see you have two kinds of glue .what are they?
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:19 AM   #16
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One is a caulk for the screws and the other is epoxy for securing the plugs. I prefer to use West System but for one or two plugs, the two part stick is ok but doesn’t cure has hard.

When Hobo was built, they used epoxy or some very hard glue for the plugs. To clean the heads on the existing screws so I can back them out, I have two sharpened small screw drivers. I learned the hard way to take my time getting the old screws out. Once the head is stripped you have to get creative to get the screw out with out damaging the teak.
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:23 AM   #17
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If you look at the pictures Xsbank posted, you’ll notice all the plugs have the grain aligned with the planks. Thats the way to do it.

Xsbank: Nice looking decks and seams! How old are they?
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:27 AM   #18
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Easting:
I agree.
The purpose of the screw is to hold the deck plank down while the glue it is sitting in cures. Several years on, that glue s well cured and the screw can be discarded. I haven't yet replaced any of the screws that I have removed due to being too tall for the surrounding boards. I have used epoxy or black 291 in the hole and a new bung in 291 or white glue. Seems to work well as some of my repairs of this nature are pushing 20 years old themselves and are working well.
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:45 AM   #19
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Easting:
I agree.
The purpose of the screw is to hold the deck plank down while the glue it is sitting in cures. Several years on, that glue s well cured and the screw can be discarded. I haven't yet replaced any of the screws that I have removed due to being too tall for the surrounding boards. I have used epoxy or black 291 in the hole and a new bung in 291 or white glue. Seems to work well as some of my repairs of this nature are pushing 20 years old themselves and are working well.
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Old 01-26-2019, 01:09 PM   #20
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I recall it was GB32 595, which is about 1975. Those decks were done in ‘06/07.
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