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Old 03-31-2020, 05:56 AM   #21
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Greetings,
Mr. B. That's the stuff! Good job. IF you now choose to polish the pieces it should be quite easy with Brasso or something similar.


As I mentioned above, while sand or bead blasting WILL remove the oxidation, the more passive chemical cleaning leaves a surface much smoother if you want to polish.
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Old 03-31-2020, 08:00 AM   #22
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Looking for some suggestions on how to clean this bronze. Hoping to find an alternative to using a wire brush wheel on my grinder. Maybe soaking or coating with a chemical? Thanks.

Soak in plain yogurt. Make sure yogurt contains live cultures. I discovered this when I spilled yogurt on my bronze faucet. Came out sparkling when I wiped up the spill.
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Old 03-31-2020, 08:23 AM   #23
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Soaked a few pieces in white vinegar and salt overnight. Very happy with the results. Just need more vinegar and a bigger bucket to finish the rest. Here's a before and after pic.
To speed up the process.. boil them in the vinegar, we use to do this all the time with the horse bits (mostly sweet copper and some brass). From there if you want polish. Don't expect it to last once it hits the salt spray.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:58 PM   #24
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In the Navy, we used bug juice (i.e. Koolaid). Buy the little packets (without sugar) for 20-cents each and use those to soak the bronze/brass/copper in. Its a high concentrate of citric acid and works very well, for little money. Tip - use cherry and it gives the metal a nice reddish glow afterwards. Other colors do a similar job.
Ah yes the best degreaser the Navy could buy. We used that stuff for cleaning everything in the engine, boiler and equipment rooms. Used to laugh at guys on the mess decks for drinking the stuff just for S & Gs.
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Old 04-03-2020, 12:51 PM   #25
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Brasso.
Navy used it all the time and it works.
A little elbow grease with it and you get some exercise also!
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Old 04-03-2020, 01:18 PM   #26
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For the polishing part, I use Never Dull wadding. I prefer it over Brasso.

Unless you intend to keep polishing it, you'll need to clear coat, but IMO that's problematic, because once water gets under the clear coat it requires stripping the clear coat to clean. For inside the cabin it's fine, it's what the manufacturers of clocks and barometers do, but if you've seen an old one you can see where water has migrated under the finish, mainly around the screws and threads. For on deck, just let it go green.

The green verdigris is harmless, by the way.
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Old 04-03-2020, 01:40 PM   #27
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Looking for some suggestions on how to clean this bronze. Hoping to find an alternative to using a wire brush wheel on my grinder. Maybe soaking or coating with a chemical? Thanks.
Ketchup
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:27 PM   #28
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After I removed my seacocks my father cleaned them with a mixture of salt and vinegar. He soaked them in the solution and brushed them clean. Cheap and non toxic!

I googled it and there is a lot of information out there on this combination.

I second this method, works great
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Old 04-03-2020, 04:31 PM   #29
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This stuff is excellent at protecting metals. Unlike a "top" coat product that only adheres to the surface and likely to fail as Steve D' stated, this product actually penetrates the surface. I have used this product on everything from metal sculptures to rat rod headers. It's easy to use and works. Looks like you'd be better off ordering online than direct from the manufacturer as they are Covid closed.
https://permalac.com/
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Old 04-03-2020, 04:41 PM   #30
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Greetings,
Mr. G. Thanks for that. I've never heard of it.
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