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Old 02-09-2017, 01:39 PM   #21
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Do you have the round or square water heater?
Mine was square....standard Seaward. But when you open it up, the tank is round with insulation all around it.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:40 PM   #22
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Ok. Thanks.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:55 PM   #23
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I have one on my boat. Installed when the boat was built in 2002 and has worked well ever since. Uses about 3 gallons of propane every 2 weeks with 2 people on board and also cooking with propane. Mine has a pilot light that remains lit, the newer ones are probably electronic.
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:00 PM   #24
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FishPCB, if you do electric check for previous crimps on the wires. I had a fire recently when the old crimp connecter severed the hot wire and caused arcing inside the wire insulator. I cut back to the supply leads and crimped on #8 wires to the heater connecters with ring connecters. The pigtail wires on the new heater are only for demonstrating hookup not for crimping on to the supply leads.
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Old 02-10-2017, 07:13 PM   #25
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My tank started leaking is my I have to replace. I will make sure all connections are nice and tight.
Hope you didn't have much of a fire.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:43 PM   #26
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More like a melt down with the acrid smell and some smudging of overhead. If you look to the left of the red cable you can see the severed crimp. By replacing the lead in wires with #8 wire you can put in nice strong crimp connectors.
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Old 02-12-2017, 01:15 AM   #27
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fishpcb, if access is a real issue, and removing engine exhausts is getting right up there, is it possible to install a nice large cylinder nearby, after making up a suitable platform, (leaving the old one disconnected and blanked off), and just route the engine and hot water in and outs using appropriate grade flexible hoses like I used in this pic when I replaced mine which had different dimensions from the old one...?
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Old 02-12-2017, 07:49 AM   #28
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More like a melt down with the acrid smell and some smudging of overhead. If you look to the left of the red cable you can see the severed crimp. By replacing the lead in wires with #8 wire you can put in nice strong crimp connectors.


Yep, looks like it got a little warm.
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Old 02-12-2017, 07:51 AM   #29
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fishpcb, if access is a real issue, and removing engine exhausts is getting right up there, is it possible to install a nice large cylinder nearby, after making up a suitable platform, (leaving the old one disconnected and blanked off), and just route the engine and hot water in and outs using appropriate grade flexible hoses like I used in this pic when I replaced mine which had different dimensions from the old one...?


I got the old one out by taking it apart. The new one is square and will go back in with no problem.
I did look at the one like yours but the square worked better for my space.
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Old 02-12-2017, 04:44 PM   #30
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i got the old one out by taking it apart. The new one is square and will go back in with no problem.
I did look at the one like yours but the square worked better for my space.


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Old 02-12-2017, 04:46 PM   #31
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A job but it's out. The bottom was rusted out and leaking. New one will be here Tuesday and back to gather it goes. The old one was 20 gal. The new one is only 6 gal.
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Old 02-12-2017, 04:47 PM   #32
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A job but it's out. The bottom was rusted out and leaking. New one will be here Tuesday and back to gather it goes. The old one was 20 gal. The new one is only 6 gal.


Not sure why the pics posted 3 times. Sorry about that.
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Old 02-12-2017, 04:58 PM   #33
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That looks great! But $1450 is 3 Raritans and a lot of diesel.
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Old 02-12-2017, 05:27 PM   #34
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That looks great! But $1450 is 3 Raritans and a lot of diesel.
New 6 gal was $284 shipped to the house.
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Old 02-13-2017, 06:41 AM   #35
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20G seems a lot for that boat. 6 will certainly fit better, and is usually enough. They also sell 11G water heaters, which is what I went with (because I had the room and could get it installed easily.) Just wanted to throw that in here for anyone looking at a similar job in the future.
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Old 02-13-2017, 12:26 PM   #36
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20G seems a lot for that boat. 6 will certainly fit better, and is usually enough. They also sell 11G water heaters, which is what I went with (because I had the room and could get it installed easily.) Just wanted to throw that in here for anyone looking at a similar job in the future.


I started to get the 11 gal but it was a couple inches wider the the 6 and we can make 6 gal work. The 6 should slide right in.
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Old 02-13-2017, 01:38 PM   #37
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I started to get the 11 gal but it was a couple inches wider the the 6 and we can make 6 gal work. The 6 should slide right in.
The way these heaters heat the water(HOT HOT HOT), a little hot water goes a long way. You should be fine!!
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:17 AM   #38
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Remember every item your replace will again in time need replacement.
Do yourself a big favor and install every replacement so its quick and easy to do next time.

KISS installed , not "forever" installed.
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:28 PM   #39
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New water heater starter tripping the breaker. It appears the breaker is weak. I've tested all the connections and they are good. It draws 12.5 amps and has a 15 amp breaker.
Anyone have a weak breaker problem?
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:56 PM   #40
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New water heater starter tripping the breaker. It appears the breaker is weak. I've tested all the connections and they are good. It draws 12.5 amps and has a 15 amp breaker.
Anyone have a weak breaker problem?
If it was me, and since I don't know anything, if the breaker has other 15 amp breakers next to it, I would just hook up the water heater to another 15 amp breaker and sea what happens. If it trips then the water heater or the installation is the problem. If not, then you could replace the breaker.

But again, that is only what I would do, not what somebody should do.
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