Hino 210HP engines

[MrM]

Hello.

As of the last 2 weeks I am a happy owner of 1994 Bayliner 3888.

It is a great boat and has 2 of above hino diesels.

I was out today cruising at 2100 RMP and noted that the temperature was quite high on both engines - 200F and 210F. I am not sure if that is normal for those models.

Would anybody know what are the normal parameters for this engine?
Temperature? Economical RPM? Oil pressure?

I am trying to locate an engine manual but no luck so far.
Advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[sunchaser]

According to the Bayliner owner club site, 175 degrees F. When was the last time the cooling systems and related plumbing were cleaned and raw water impellers changed? Have you verified gauges with an IR gun?

 

[johnrupp]

The operating range per manual is 167F-203F.

http://bayliner32xx.com/uploads/Hino4CylManual.pdf

http://bayliner32xx.com/uploads/workshop_manual_w04.pdf

Did you verify gauges with reading from an infrared thermometer?

John

 

[johnrupp]

At 2100 RPM that’s way high. I can cruise mine at 2800RPM all day and they don’t go over 195.

1-Is the bottom and props clean?
2-Impellers in raw water pumps ok?
3-Possible blockage in manicoolers.
4-Possible blockage in risers.
5-Possible blockage in strainers.

John

 

[johnrupp]

To my knowledge there are only two importers in North America of Hino marine engines and parts. In the US it’s North Harbor Diesel and Marine Parts Supply in Canada. Non marine only parts are available from any Hino truck dealer.

https://www.marinepartssupply.com/

https://www.northharbordiesel.com/

John

 

[MrM]

Thank you John and Sunchaser.

This boat did belong to a lovely guy, who is 88y old and very sick with arthritis.

He finally decided to sell her.
Last 4 years he was paying mechanics to do all the maintenance. He has a full record - impellers were changed 2 years ago.
But there is no record of anybody inspecting the heat exchangers or even inspecting the water strainers.

To make matter worse the previous owner did have a habit of leaving the water intakes always open - " To just get here and go". I suspect his disease did not allow him to manipulate them anymore.

I tried closing the main water engine intakes... and could not. Not sure if they are corroded or there is plenty of marine life inside of them...

My next move is to change all the water intakes to Marvelon plastic ones and clean the intake pipes... I am not sure if I am brave enough to open the water strainers with the water intakes open...will fix it after the sea cocks...

this weekend I will dive and check the props, intakes and zincs.
thank you for advice guys. I will buy the IR gun.

Maciek

 

[Mako]

Don't thing you really need "to change all the water intakes to Marvelon plastic ones" unless those are literally broken, or break when when you start dismantling them.

 

[Tang]

Welcome MrM with a Bayliner 38xx from another MrM with a Bayliner 38xx, although in my case it’s a 3870 with twin Hino 175s.
Start with a torch through your strainers and check that you have plenty of water through the exhaust and then work from there.

 

[MrM]

I will try the torch and see through the water strainer.

I always worry about invisible corrosion - you guys do not believe in plastic water intakes?

So I am planning to try the sea cock valve again. Just not sure how hard I should try the valve - ?can one break it by pushing too hard.
I thought of using a pipe as a lever - but that can get me in trouble.

 

[johnrupp]

If it’s in the water I would be hesitant to use a pipe wrench on it.

 

[rslifkin]

I will try the torch and see through the water strainer.

I always worry about invisible corrosion - you guys do not believe in plastic water intakes?

So I am planning to try the sea cock valve again. Just not sure how hard I should try the valve - ?can one break it by pushing too hard.
I thought of using a pipe as a lever - but that can get me in trouble.

I love Marelon thru hulls above the waterline. But I'm not a fan below the waterline and stick to bronze. Not because it's a better material, but because it's easy enough to assess the condition of bronze. I'm not as confident that I can tell if Marelon has degraded and needs replacement.

 

[Comodave]

Agree on bronze through hulls and seacocks. Just buy from a reputable manufacturer, like Groco so you know the bronze is really quality bronze.

 

[mvweebles]

I agree with others - if it has a valve and is below waterline, bronze. Defender or Hodges Marine usually have best price out there. Also the Groco backing plates are handy. MarineHowTo.com has some defeat DIY advice if you need.

https://marinehowto.com/seacock-thru-hull-primer/

Start at one end of your raw water system and work to the other. If you can't get your seacock to close, inspect what you can. Pretty sure you'll find the culprit somewhere.

Peter.

 

[Ken E.]

Concur on bronze below the water line. Try a liberal dose of pentatrating oil on the existing ones before you give up on them.

 

[Pcpete]

Hello from a 3818 owner. Since the boat has been maintained in place, I have a laundry list for you to check. First, what kind of survey did you have? Was the boat hauled out? What was the condition of the running gear? Was there a sea trial with a wide open throttle test?
Next, to address the running too warm - way too warm at 2100 - it could be as simple as sea grass in the intakes. You can check that while you are looking at the props. Hopefully they are growth free. You can work the valves a bit, but it’s best to service them on the hard. Any service notes about the risers? They may need cleaning out where the raw water mixes with the exhaust. The transmission coolers can also restrict flow.
If the coolant is close to two years old, change it. I used the Cummins certified NAPA heavy duty (big truck) coolant as recommended by Earl Summerville a, if not the, recognized top Hino Mechanic in North America. Check your bonding system. Unwrap the black tape and look for corroded ferrules. ABYC requires mechanical connections but it’s easy to have what looks good be totally ineffective.
If you don’t have one, buy an infrared thermometer. They are well worth the cost when you are looking for warm spots along the cooling system.
Join the Bayliner Owners Club forums. There is a lot of information on the 38’s with alternative part numbers, and members who enjoy sharing their knowledge.
Those engines should run 2850 rpm all day long at 175 or a bit less.
Feel free to send me a personal message with any questions.

 

[MrM]

Hi Guys.
Thank you all for the advice.
I am going to buy the IR gun for obvious reasons - do not have one.

Yesterday I had a chance to go back to the boat. Spend the whole evening in the engine room. Managed to close all seacocks with some WD40 - they actually are working well now.

The water strainers - I did open them and they were relatively clean - found some debris on the bottom of the baskets, one small shell in each of them but it was not terrible.

The impellers were changed 2 years ago. the cooling fluid is good colour and level.
I did not open the heat exchangers as this will be a bigger job. Oil levels are all good. I have a full maintenance record for her and it was done every year.


But this morning I dove on the boat. She looks more like coral reef than a boat...
there is 4inch thick growth of barnackless... I could not find the through holes in this bush at all. the props had plenty of life on them - it fell off mostly as I did do a little trip last week. But they are very rough with marine life.
steering fins are all covered.... It is an ecosystem on full scale.
I tried to remove some of the growth myself. After 30min of enjoying the "calming and refreshing pacific waters of Gabriola Island" I could not control the shakes any more. I managed to remove some 2 sq feet of this stuff.

Stones Marina in Nanaimo had a spot on dry dock for 25th of Sep and I took it. She needs full bottom review, clean, new paint, inspection of the trough hulls.

I really hope this is where the problem is. Will keep you updated.
And yes - I will join the Bayliner forum. Sounds like a good idea.

Thanks again for all the thoughts and remarks.

MM

 

[Pcpete]

Gee, I have no idea why you might be shaking except maybe from excitement. No doubt a good share of the temperature issue is due to the undersea garden. If you are satisfied with the color of the coolant, check the Ph at a minimum. The manicooler assembly is sensitive to any imbalance because of the combination of metals involved. The exchanger itself, aka the bundle, is suspended from the aluminum manifold by large o-rings and the end caps are, I believe, bronze. You can see the potential for electrolysis damaging the aluminum manifold that’s around 5-6K US.

 

[MrM]

What would be a good PH off the coolant?

 

[MrM]

Just found it - between 8 and 10. I did not even know you can test this. Will get a kit and keep an eye on it.

MM

 

[SteveK]

Look for barnacle inside the thru hull fitting, if found remove and check intake hose before strainer. The strainers being mostly clear could mean it was done shortly before it became yours.

ETA: 2 square feet in 20 minutes. I don't think I will hire you to check my bottom.

 

[koliver]

Your boat went through the summer of 2021. Here is a picture of mine at its 2022 haulout:

My fwd head intake was completely blocked by similar growth. Luckily I had none in engine intakes, but you may not be so lucky.

 

[MrM]

Oh. This looks very familiar.... . 2 weeks till haul out.

 

[jgwinks]

I always worry about invisible corrosion - you guys do not believe in plastic water intakes?

IMO there's nothing wrong with the BLACK Marelon through hulls and seacocks. If there are any WHITE fittings below water, get them out of there before your feet get wet. I've had a couple just break off. Bronze is a little stronger, but they can corrode. Plastic does not. It's a trade off.

 

[SteveK]

Your boat went through the summer of 2021. Here is a picture of mine at its 2022 haulout:

My fwd head intake was completely blocked by similar growth. Luckily I had none in engine intakes, but you may not be so lucky.

What timeline was this (one year? more?)

 

[koliver]

What timeline was this (one year? more?)

Missed the 2021 haulout due to Covid, so I had a diver scrape the barnacles off of the running gear in early June 2021. In the heat dome of late June, went to Desolation sound where the oysters were going crazy and dying due to the same heat dome. The water there was extremely fertile with oyster spat everywhere. Hauled next in May 2022. Bottom paint kept the hard growth off the hull, but everywhere else was the worst I have ever seen. Oysters in the shaft pipes, head inlet thru hulls, genset intake, none on the props or rudders. Those were covered in barnacles up to 1" in diameter.
Rustoleum cold galvanizing paint on the Stb prop and shaft did nothing helpful, as it was worse than the Port side where I used CSC ablative antifouling.

 

[SteveK]

Missed the 2021 haulout due to Covid, so I had a diver scrape the barnacles off of the running gear in early June 2021. In the heat dome of late June, went to Desolation sound where the oysters were going crazy and dying due to the same heat dome. The water there was extremely fertile with oyster spat everywhere. Hauled next in May 2022. Bottom paint kept the hard growth off the hull, but everywhere else was the worst I have ever seen. Oysters in the shaft pipes, head inlet thru hulls, genset intake, none on the props or rudders. Those were covered in barnacles up to 1" in diameter.
Rustoleum cold galvanizing paint on the Stb prop and shaft did nothing helpful, as it was worse than the Port side where I used CSC ablative antifouling.

good info. So you missed one year haul out, so two years in water, hull was mostly OK. Reminds me of the last trip to desolation, common denominator?
On the GB I went two years and nothing major but it did not go to desolation.
Interesting on the rustoleum, I found the opposite after the two year haul out and just this year added it to the running gear of the Bayliner.

 

[mbdana]

Groco seacocks

If your current raw water peacock (or any seacocks)is an older groco there is probably a wing bolt on the back side of the valve body (opposite the valve handle) that needs to be loosened before you can open or close the valve.

These older Geico peacocks were rubber plug valves so when open or closed the wing bolt on back was tightened to compress the rubber plug into to opening its open or closed to.

If this is the type valve you have (all mine are that type on my 88 Grand Banks) this wing needs to be loosened to operate the valve. Forcing it with a lever will break something.

Best of luck.
Mike Dana
Third Reef
36'Grand Banks Classic #819
Potts Harbor Maine

 

[Finestkind]

Marlon…

I have had great luck with Marlon ever since I started following the directions regarding lubrication!! (Slow learner some times!)