Help. PO used 3M5200 to reseal leaking windows

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Unclematt

Unclematt

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2020
Messages
318
Location
United States
Vessel Name
Seaview
Vessel Make
Sundowner 32
I need to replace my salon windows. The outside teak trim is heavily glued in with 5200, the glass is glued in with 5200 and the interior teak trim is glued in with 5200. After hours at war I got one outer frame off and the glass out. Is there any miracle tool, technique or solvent that will make this job any easier? I started with a razor knife, went to a multitool w/ cutter, then finally a battery sawzall with pry bars driven in. I start window #2 tonight so any advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
Looks like Debond Formula is the best.
 

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I have never heard of "Debond" I wish you luck though. 5200 is generally forever. I rarely use it out of consideration to the next owner. For my nickles worth, I like 4200 for almost any sealing, attaching job. Im 70 years old, 4200 will last a lifetime for me.

pete
 
People have reported success using narrow gage piano wire if both sides are accessible. Push it through and use like a cheese cutter with handles.
 
I just ordered some Debond. Thanks you for the guidance. I will let you know how it works.
 
+1 on the piano wire, guitar strings might be easier to find and will work as well.
 
The piano wire trick works if you can get it all the way trough. Better than piano wire is a tool used by car windshield technicians. You push the wire through and then put a handle on the wire.

If you are unable to do this then take a very thin putty knife and heat it up with a heat gun. It will slice right through the 5200. Heating up the window frame will make the job even easier. 5200 becomes very soft and stretchy with heat allowing you to work the putty knife into tight areas.
 
Debond will help, don’t know if it will completely release the 5200. The problem is getting it off without damaging the surrounding area. I have used a multi tool to cut it but it may scratch up the area around the window. POs that use 5200 for something like this should be shot. 5200 isn’t even close to the best product for this application but for a while people thought it was a cure all for caulking jobs. I put blue painters tape on the area surrounding where I am working to help stop the damage.
 
Another thumbs up for DeBond, it works as advertised. You must be patient and allow it time to do its thing, and it needs an entrance point, as the instructions recommend. All the other tips are on target, too.

So is the "5200 is forever". I cringe when I see DIY guys slopping it on like it's the end-all magic goo. Limited applications, there are many products that work without being a problem.
 
I only use 5200 on forever items like depth finder transducers. I know they will not need to come out while I own the boat.
 
2 removed with 2 to go. The amount the PO used is unreal and has made this job a bear. The inside trim is L shaped and had 5200 on every inch of it. It did not survive removal. Once I get it all cleaned up I will have to do some repair to both the outside glass and the inside teak. Some of the teak was bad water damage some the 5200 pulled it off.
 
mvweebles said:
I gotta ask..... How was it so well sealed but still leak?
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I was wondering the same! For me it was the opposite, the PO was so keen to save a $ that he used small dots to glue the trim... obviously it was no sealed.

I am not an expert on 5200 but I read that like previously stated heat is a solution but I guess depending on what you heat it can be a problem too.

L
 
5200, IMO, isn’t that great as a sealant but it is a great adhesive. But bery few cases need the amount of adhesive that 5200 supplies. For the damage to the inside and outside, I take a drywall putty knife and lay it flat next to the piece you are trying to remove. Then use the pry bar sitting on the putty knife. The knife stops abrasion on the surface and spreads out the pressure some. If the inside is damaged by water the putty knife may help stop it from ripping up. Also consider taking a utility knife and scoring the inside teak plywood so it the 5200 is still stuck to the teak it may not rip beyond the scoring. Maybe it will help. Good luck.
 
A heat gun does wonders. Used it several times, just be patient when applying heat, slow and easy goes along way.
 
The windows are not leaking now, the water damage was old so the 5200 did seal it up. On the first window I tried heat and heating my putty knife but with 2" wide trim and L shaped inner trim full of the dreaded 5200 it took me 5 hours. The second window which I cut out with a sawzall took 2 hours. The windows were in tough shape cracked and foggy, I am removing them to replace with screened sliders from Motion Windows.
 
"Have a fire extinguisher handy!"

The USCG rates oak at a burn ratio of 100 , most GRP boats of polly resin are 500!

Do not expect to put out a polly boat fire easily!
 
I am installing 4 complete new sliding windows. I am planning to use 3M4200 for the install. As far as damage goes beyond what I have created there was some hiding behind the trim and beneath the 5200. I will rebuild, fair and paint the complete wheelhouse so it looks uniform. Once it is apart I will show some pic's
 
I used to use 3M products but have switched to Sika products. I like them much better. I use Sika 291 for most general caulking work.
 
I removed the starboard rear window tonight. This window was leaking the PO had used the 5200 everywhere except the inside where it was wet. Now I get to replace some veneer. The project just grows.
 
That is one of the things I don’t like about 5200, it is too runny and doesn’t stay where you want it. It doesn’t seal very well like regular caulks do. Besides you can’t get rid of it when you need to.
 
The last window is out hooray. On this one the PO used both epoxy and 3M5200 so it was the worst one I had to cut out. The method he used was fix the leak, hide the rot and make it look good. With all the demo done it can only get better from here.
 
Bet a nichrome wire with some current running through it would slice it....One guy inside, one guy outside. keep[ it tight and go.....
 
Window Removal/Replacement with PO using 5200

Crusty Chief said:
A heat gun does wonders. Used it several times, just be patient when applying heat, slow and easy goes along way.
Click to expand...

I ran into same issue on my Hatteras 54' with removing the galley slider window - Fortunately only one window leaked. I used a combination of a heat gun and fiberglass shims to gradually move window frame out of structure while keeping it squared. The heat gun softened the sealant, the shims opened the gap and kept the window frame out so I could cut the sealant. When I went back with new sealant, instead of 3M, I took advice of local vendor that has worked on 90% of boats in this marina and used BoatLife brand caulk. Worked well, was easy to manage and clean up.
 
Unclematt said:
I removed the starboard rear window tonight. This window was leaking the PO had used the 5200 everywhere except the inside where it was wet. Now I get to replace some veneer. The project just grows.
Click to expand...

In my world we called that “Mission Creep”. You then begin to ask the question now what :banghead:
 
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