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Old 09-26-2021, 07:30 PM   #1
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Haul Out Thru Hulls Close or open?

Hello,

Have a haul out next week and I was wondering what Thru-hulls ball valves you guys close prior to being put on the hard, if any..

Here are mine-

Genset Raw Water Cooling
Engine Raw Water Cooling
Anchor Washdown
Air Conditioning
Head Raw Water

I ask this because I know that when I am cleaning the strainer basket for the AC, if the water level gets too far down in the strainer bowl I loose the prime for the AC pump and that is not fun to mess with...

Which ones do you suggest closing?

Thanks for your suggestions.
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Old 09-26-2021, 07:35 PM   #2
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None. If you were going to be out for a while I plug the thru hull openings with fiberglass screen to keep critters out.
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Old 09-26-2021, 07:57 PM   #3
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I always leave mine open because we haul for the winter so I want the water to drain out. But if you are going right back in then maybe close them to maintain the prime.
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Old 09-27-2021, 04:14 AM   #4
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The raw water impellers on the main engines and gen sets are self priming so leave those open. The AC are centrifugal pumps that require being below the water line and may not prime when back in the water and require bleeding the air in the line. I leave these open and reprime on my boat, so I leave open also but you could close. Discharge lines from sink drains are open. Discharge lines from holding tanks I keep closed as they are normally not used in our no discharge zones in PNW Washington State.

The self priming pumps for wash down are typically self priming pumps , raw way toilets would self prime with the manual pumps, these can be open or closed as you wish.
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Old 09-27-2021, 09:26 AM   #5
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I always leave mine open because we haul for the winter so I want the water to drain out. But if you are going right back in then maybe close them to maintain the prime.
I think Comodave made an important point here. If the ball valves are closed when the boat is in the water, the hole through the ball valve will be full of water. If that is not drained and temps go below freezing the ball valve itself can be split. Most seacocks have a drain plug on the side of the valve for that purpose but if the boat is out of the water, merely cycling the valve will drain it.

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Old 09-27-2021, 09:41 AM   #6
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Greetings,
Mr. j. As an aside you mention re-priming the AC pump is a PIA. Might this haul out be a good time to alter/adjust/move things etc. regarding the AC cooling system to make it easier to prime in the future? Then thru-hulls open or closed would not be an issue.


As mentioned, freezing weather is a different scenario.
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Old 09-27-2021, 10:03 AM   #7
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I always double check that the holding tank thru hull is closed. Here on the west coast you could get a big environmental services bill for leaking sewage across the yard.
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Old 09-27-2021, 03:35 PM   #8
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Is this a topic for a new thread, but why don't we use self priming pumps for ac?
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Old 09-27-2021, 03:46 PM   #9
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I leave all mine open (except holding tank discharge which is normally closed) but I haul every fall and everything has to be winterized so it doesn't really matter, Re-priminng the AC pump is easy enough if it is needed in the spring.
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Old 09-27-2021, 06:04 PM   #10
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Another way I learned how to get undesired environmental attention was leaving my bilge pumps on for the haul out and travel. Sloshing movement kicked one on and pissed on the tarmac.
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Old 09-27-2021, 07:17 PM   #11
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Slightly off topic. To prime my ac pump I just put a shop vac hose on the out put thru hull with the inlet thru hull open. 5 to 10 seconds later water appears. Voila. System primed and ready. YMMV

John
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Old 09-28-2021, 07:40 AM   #12
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Slightly off topic. To prime my ac pump I just put a shop vac hose on the out put thru hull with the inlet thru hull open. 5 to 10 seconds later water appears. Voila. System primed and ready. YMMV

John
You do this with the boat in the water? That would not be easy on my boat.
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Old 09-28-2021, 09:28 AM   #13
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Backinblue. Yup. The outlet for my AC is on the starboard side. At the dock it is easy to reach with the shop vac.

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Old 09-28-2021, 09:52 AM   #14
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Backinblue. Yup. The outlet for my AC is on the starboard side. At the dock it is easy to reach with the shop vac.

John
Great. Mine is not accessible in the water. It's easy enough for me to access the pump and bleed out the air if needed. The pump is at or below the waterline so usually not an issue.
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Old 10-09-2021, 09:17 AM   #15
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If you are in the south, be sure to PLUG all of the thru hulls with something solid, not mesh. More and more marinas have termite problems that they probably won't tell you about. Southern California and Florida have been plagued with them. The termites "FLY" each year and the swarms are all over the boats. They will get in thru the slightest crack or space. If you have a leak, they will follow it. It only takes a couple of them to get started and they will slowly eat thru every piece of wood in the boat. Wasps are also a problem, but removal is easy compared to termites.
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Old 10-09-2021, 09:24 AM   #16
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Is this a topic for a new thread, but why don't we use self priming pumps for ac?
On our vessel the AC pump is well below the waterline. Each vessel is a bit unique, thus needs a bit of thought as to what valves need opening and or closing during haul out.
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Old 10-09-2021, 09:39 AM   #17
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If you are in the south, be sure to PLUG all of the thru hulls with something solid, not mesh. More and more marinas have termite problems that they probably won't tell you about. Southern California and Florida have been plagued with them. The termites "FLY" each year and the swarms are all over the boats. They will get in thru the slightest crack or space. If you have a leak, they will follow it. It only takes a couple of them to get started and they will slowly eat thru every piece of wood in the boat. Wasps are also a problem, but removal is easy compared to termites.
Wouldn't closing the seacock suffice?
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Old 10-09-2021, 10:14 AM   #18
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Yes, if you are sure to clear any debris deposited between the seacock and the surface.
Here, we call the wasps "mud daubers" because they deposit mud. Usually, they try to get access to the inside where they make golf ball sized lumps to lay there eggs in. Their mud cakes up like hard clay and takes real effort to clear. It could cause a second haul to clean them out. The smaller thru hulls are those most difficult to clean out. We recently had to remove a hull screen and drill out the mud from a generator cooling line that was left open. It was plugged all the way up thru the seacock and to the filter. My own boat has dozens of openings for the engines(4), sinks(2), showers(2), air conditioners(4), generator(2), sensors, fuel and water tank vents, etc. I am slowly adding flush ports to each of the important ones.
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Old 10-09-2021, 01:17 PM   #19
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Just one practical issue: Regardless of what you do for the longer term, at least at haulout, I recommend closing all seacocks leading to sink drains. Otherwise the yard's pressure washing is highly likely to shoot a large stream of crud right back up the drain and into your boat's interior. This is one of those "don't ask me how I know" things.
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Old 10-09-2021, 03:29 PM   #20
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Just one practical issue: Regardless of what you do for the longer term, at least at haulout, I recommend closing all seacocks leading to sink drains. Otherwise the yard's pressure washing is highly likely to shoot a large stream of crud right back up the drain and into your boat's interior. This is one of those "don't ask me how I know" things.
My sink drains are above the waterline and hence no seacocks. I don't expect they would pressure wash above the waterline anyway.
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