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12-27-2013, 12:40 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
City: Everett, Wa
Vessel Name: The 6-Pack
Vessel Model: 1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 205
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Hatch Wood Fix
I have a hatch that I am refinishing. I am going to varnish the hatch once I get it cleaned up. It came apart fine but I have spent a lot of time cleaning out old caulking. I need help with how to fix some large cracking in the teak. I have several long cracks that I want to reinforce. I would like to varnish it but I want to minimize the appearance of the cracks. I know I will see them but I want them to be structurally fixed.
The hatch
Crack example
More cracks
__________________
Jeff & Michelle
The 6-Pack
1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
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12-27-2013, 01:21 PM
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#2
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Guru
City: Cape Cod, MA
Vessel Name: Island Seeker
Vessel Model: Willard 36 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,306
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I would glue the cracks with West's G-flex after taping off the sides of the cracks so as not to get it into the wood. It is a miracle glue for sure in my experience. You could thicken the glue with teak sanding dust or they (West) have a wood colored filler you might use. Coating the teak with epoxy b/4 varnishing can extend the life of the varnish 2x-3x but it is also 2x-3x harder to remove when the time comes (as it always does) The epoxy must be varnished or painted over for UV protection or it will turn opaque in short order.
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12-27-2013, 01:29 PM
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#3
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Veteran Member
City: Taunton, MA.
Vessel Name: Navy Whale
Vessel Model: 41' MMC Defever Trawler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 30
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Instead of sikaflex for the black caulking lines, I used west epoxy, filler and their black filler for the seams between the teak so the varnish adheres better!
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12-28-2013, 02:46 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
City: Everett, Wa
Vessel Name: The 6-Pack
Vessel Model: 1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinball63
Instead of sikaflex for the black caulking lines, I used west epoxy, filler and their black filler for the seams between the teak so the varnish adheres better!
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Thanks! This is not the teak deck it is a hatch. I am trying to reinforce but reduce the visible nature of the crack.
__________________
Jeff & Michelle
The 6-Pack
1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
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12-28-2013, 02:48 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
City: Everett, Wa
Vessel Name: The 6-Pack
Vessel Model: 1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brooksie
I would glue the cracks with West's G-flex after taping off the sides of the cracks so as not to get it into the wood. It is a miracle glue for sure in my experience. You could thicken the glue with teak sanding dust or they (West) have a wood colored filler you might use. Coating the teak with epoxy b/4 varnishing can extend the life of the varnish 2x-3x but it is also 2x-3x harder to remove when the time comes (as it always does) The epoxy must be varnished or painted over for UV protection or it will turn opaque in short order.
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Is g-flex going to make it hard and reinforce the crack? Wood colored filler? Do I put that in the epoxy? Or do I put it on first and epoxy over?
Thanks for the help I am new to this
__________________
Jeff & Michelle
The 6-Pack
1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
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12-28-2013, 06:05 PM
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#6
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Veteran Member
City: Taunton, MA.
Vessel Name: Navy Whale
Vessel Model: 41' MMC Defever Trawler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 30
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I thought you had the tongue and groove teak decorated hatch!
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12-28-2013, 06:48 PM
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#7
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TF Site Team
City: California Delta
Vessel Name: FlyWright
Vessel Model: 1977 Marshall Californian 34 LRC
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 13,728
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I think the epoxy Brooksie is referring to is CPES like this or this.
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12-28-2013, 07:40 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
City: Everett, Wa
Vessel Name: The 6-Pack
Vessel Model: 1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinball63
I thought you had the tongue and groove teak decorated hatch!
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Man I wish! That is beautiful
__________________
Jeff & Michelle
The 6-Pack
1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
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12-28-2013, 07:41 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
City: Everett, Wa
Vessel Name: The 6-Pack
Vessel Model: 1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyWright
I think the epoxy Brooksie is referring to is CPES like this or this.
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Thanks that might be just the ticket! Thanks for the link!
__________________
Jeff & Michelle
The 6-Pack
1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
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12-28-2013, 07:56 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: Cape Cod, MA
Vessel Name: Island Seeker
Vessel Model: Willard 36 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6-Pack
Is g-flex going to make it hard and reinforce the crack? Wood colored filler? Do I put that in the epoxy? Or do I put it on first and epoxy over?
Thanks for the help I am new to this
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Yes, G-flex is just a REALLY good epoxy adhesive compared to West's regular epoxy which I was refering to for possible use under your varnish. Add the filler to the G-flex to thicken it so it won't run out of the cracks b/4 it cures. I was not refering to CPES which is thinned down epoxy used to saturate wood b/4 paint or varnish.
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12-28-2013, 09:45 PM
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#11
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TF Site Team
City: California Delta
Vessel Name: FlyWright
Vessel Model: 1977 Marshall Californian 34 LRC
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 13,728
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Sorry Brooksie...thought that was what you meant.
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12-29-2013, 06:14 AM
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#12
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Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
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Structural invisible epoxy repair is almost impossible.
Many times the results are far better replacing old cracked wood with new.
Yes Teak is expensive , but so is doing the job over and over.
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12-29-2013, 06:33 AM
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#13
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Member
City: Columbia SC
Vessel Name: Classy Lady
Vessel Model: Alaskan 46, #14
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
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Hatch Woood Fix: Comment
As an old wood boat owner,(had A GB42 & Alaskan 46) I dealt with the wood repairs a lot. In my experience, it is important to allow the wood to flex. So in deck seams such as your hatch, I would use a flexible sealant such as polysulfide. Booatlife makes one as do others. The main thing is for the seam to remain intact through the swelling and shrinking that occur seasonally. I have done repairs to both of my boats and found the polysulfide seem materiel still flexible from original boat construction. (One was 71 built, & othjer was 69 built!) So I feel it is important to consider the wood swelling and shrinking when deciding on repair procedure. The only exception I know of is, if a board is sealed on all six sides, there is theoretically now possibility of swelling or shrinkage--but ambient (Sun) heating must be considered! Well enough. Good luck with the project.
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12-30-2013, 10:46 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
City: Everett, Wa
Vessel Name: The 6-Pack
Vessel Model: 1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipper2
As an old wood boat owner,(had A GB42 & Alaskan 46) I dealt with the wood repairs a lot. In my experience, it is important to allow the wood to flex. So in deck seams such as your hatch, I would use a flexible sealant such as polysulfide. Booatlife makes one as do others. The main thing is for the seam to remain intact through the swelling and shrinking that occur seasonally. I have done repairs to both of my boats and found the polysulfide seem materiel still flexible from original boat construction. (One was 71 built, & othjer was 69 built!) So I feel it is important to consider the wood swelling and shrinking when deciding on repair procedure. The only exception I know of is, if a board is sealed on all six sides, there is theoretically now possibility of swelling or shrinkage--but ambient (Sun) heating must be considered! Well enough. Good luck with the project.
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Thanks I will look at that product!
__________________
Jeff & Michelle
The 6-Pack
1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
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12-30-2013, 10:50 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
City: Everett, Wa
Vessel Name: The 6-Pack
Vessel Model: 1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 205
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I was at the boat today and I popped these two blanks off the front of my rear cabinet. I expected to find fasteners. As you can see, they are just held on the cabinet face with whatever this clear goo is? Does anyone know what it might be? It is not soft like a caulking it is hard like clear glue? When I go to put them back on it seems like I will need to hold them in place somehow. A clamp might work on the bottom one but not the top one?
__________________
Jeff & Michelle
The 6-Pack
1974 Custom Aluminum Pilothouse
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