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AussieCraig

Senior Member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
179
Location
USA
Vessel Name
The Salty Swallow - named by wife
Vessel Make
Private builder - 50' Trawler
Good evening all, we currently have carpet over ply in our main living area (sounds a bit wanky calling it a salon LOL) and we would like to put down some wood flooring instead...I am VERY partial to the colors of cedar, the deep reds and pale blondes, is it possible to use the same type of flooring as is used in dirt houses ? Or is it better to use solid wood ?
 
I also have plywood floors thoughout my boat and after much consideration of various floor covering options, I selected and installed a glue down vinyl strip floor by Metroflor. My boat has been used as an office since 1995 and the floor looks great, and no one has firgured out that it is a vinyl product.
Randy
 
Parquet flooring is usually the easiest to install as much can simply be glued down and trim on hatches or other access can be trimmed on a table saw , then installed.
 
I redid the wheelhouse last year and being a tight arse went with the wood floor that you just click together and lay it on a silver underlay, only took a couple of hours to put down and I am more than happy with the results.
Adam
 

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I work for a hardwood lumber company. We make a semi load of solid wood flooring every day. I like solid wood because that is what I do,but unless you are willing to seal the underside if the solid wood flooring before putting it down I would not use it in a boat. It will find any moisture that is in the area and cup.If you want the look of solid wood I would use a engineered product that is a multiple ply on the bottom with solid wood on top . I still think I would seal the bottom first.Solid wood is forever looking for moisture.
 
Another thing to keep in mind is that carpet helps reduce the sound if your engines are under the "living area". Wood floors will be much louder.
 
I was thinking of trying to put down some form of sound insulation before the flooring....if I can find something thin enough to not upset the door levels that will still have some effect. There is already a layer of foam/foil on the engine room side of the floor but given the size of the engine she is still pretty noisy...
 
You might want to look into a cork based product made by a Portuguese company, Wicanders.

I searched high and low for something that would look like wood, but would be much lower maintenance (I'm getting too old for re-polyurethaning wood every year or two). After looking at and discarding about a dozen fully synthetic products, I was introduced to Wicanders.

They have an absolutely amazing line of flooring products, all made from cork, that look and feel like genuine wood - but are waterproof, solvent proof, fire proof, impact resistant, rot proof, sound deadening, and have a 15-year warranty - and need no maintenance or refinishing. We have it in our boat and everyone compliments us on the 'beautiful burled walnut' flooring - no one can believe it's cork.
 
You might want to look into a cork based product made by a Portuguese company, Wicanders.

I searched high and low for something that would look like wood, but would be much lower maintenance (I'm getting too old for re-polyurethaning wood every year or two). After looking at and discarding about a dozen fully synthetic products, I was introduced to Wicanders.

They have an absolutely amazing line of flooring products, all made from cork, that look and feel like genuine wood - but are waterproof, solvent proof, fire proof, impact resistant, rot proof, sound deadening, and have a 15-year warranty - and need no maintenance or refinishing. We have it in our boat and everyone compliments us on the 'beautiful burled walnut' flooring - no one can believe it's cork.

Sounds perfect ! I am off to research !:dance:
 
We installed teak and holly sheets in our salon, I want to say it was about $60/sheet unfinished, from Houston Hardwoods, Imported Hardwood, Lumber Distributor & Custom Molding in Texas | Houston Hardwoods Inc.. We have pretty good insulation between the floor and engine room below the salon.

In the galley, we just installed hand hewn teak, tongue and groove flooring.

There is some sound proofing, Marine Sound Insulation, which I was looking at for further sound proofing.

Thanks Mr Victor, just to clarify, was the teak and holly on the floor (sorry, deck LOL) or the walls etc ? And could you post some pics of both the walls and deck please ?:socool:
 
I actually know of a great sound barrier product that is often ignored. Its HDV high density vinyl. Its the same stuff that you see hanging down in a commercial walk in refrigerator doorway. It is very thin and will outperform any cork or insulation product in regards to blocking sound. This is the guy I bought mine from. Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier Fireproof Soundproofing Material | Super Soundproofing
It is really heavy so be careful how you load your boat with it.
 
Our boat is green trimmed and we coat the floor w green floor paint. It's a water based non-marine coating. As floor paint it is very hard wearing and holds up well. Was a light grey before and I was worried the dark green would wear and chip and expose the light paint under but it didn't happen.

I don't like taking up carpet every time I look in the engine compartment and I don't like the moisture, smell and dirt that carpets hold. Willy's Mitsubishi is fairly quiet and if I want quieter I can always put more sound insulation under the floor. Bligh's heavy vinyl sounds good.
 

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The memory from childhood may be ghastly , but there are new linoleum products that are fine and long wearing.

Some even include patterns with no skid that Selene uses.
 
Our boat came with 1/4" thick gray fiberglass diamond plate.The edges were rough and cut out of square.When we rebuilt the wheel house I took it up re cut all of it and squared up the edges and screwed it back down .We put a throw rug down in the middle .It looks a little like a work boat floor but it's tough and easy to clean.
 
Good evening all, we currently have carpet over ply in our main living area (sounds a bit wanky calling it a salon LOL) and we would like to put down some wood flooring instead...I am VERY partial to the colors of cedar, the deep reds and pale blondes, is it possible to use the same type of flooring as is used in dirt houses ? Or is it better to use solid wood ?

Laminate click flooring from Bunno will be fine mate. Ive laid 100's of k's of that stuff in all areas including bathrooms, toilets and laundries when I was building houses. Insulation you're after wont be found in a thin layer under the laminate mate. Get under the floor and do it properly!

I'm planning on laying that stuff on my ply floor on AXE. Make sure the ply is cleaned and is dust free, put some liquid nails on the ply and lay the click flooring. I put liquid nails down because in a marine environment, sand will and mean WILL get under it. It's an inevitable fact and once its under you'll never get it out. You're all probay thinking "So what! Who give a sh!t about some sand under the floor" but trust me when I tell you sand under laminate flooring crunches and cracks and is like finger nails running down a blackboard.

Anywhoo I'm blabbing again but the moral of my story is laminate flooring is okay to use!
Cheers
Hendo

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Sorry Craigo forgot you're not in Australia and probs don't know what Bunno is. Bunno = Bunnings (Hardware, timber supplier etc)

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As someone else previously said try cork.. it's waterproof, helps with sound, easy install, lasts forever.
I had it on the bridge,galley and entry off the side decks and it was great.
HOLLYWOOD
 
It is very hard to pass up today high end Vinyl plank flooring. It looks great, wears well and you can easily replace a board if one gets damage. The product will not be affected by water, dirt, or oils.
 
I would second the high end vinyl plank flooring. We have been using it in some low income housing projects because of the durability and it actually looks pretty good. Also easy to cut and install.
 
...I selected and installed a glue down vinyl strip floor by Metroflor...

Thanks! I never even knew this type of product existed. I see a product like this in my future. PO put down some cheap vinyl wood-look self-adhesive tiles in the saloon. They look like crap already, and it's only been a few months.

My issue is with the two big hatches to the engine room. I'll have to somehow trim the edges, as well as make sure the flooring doesn't fall off when they're opened.
 
Sorry Craigo forgot you're not in Australia and probs don't know what Bunno is. Bunno = Bunnings (Hardware, timber supplier etc)

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Sawright, I have only been away for 6 odd years so I knew the Bunno's reference...good to know about the click floor too, ta muchly...
 
Just use stainless trim on the edges this floor gets abused. The glue is the most important part use this type for good results acrylic hard set adhesive

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I work for a hardwood lumber company. We make a semi load of solid wood flooring every day. I like solid wood because that is what I do,but unless you are willing to seal the underside if the solid wood flooring before putting it down I would not use it in a boat. It will find any moisture that is in the area and cup.If you want the look of solid wood I would use a engineered product that is a multiple ply on the bottom with solid wood on top . I still think I would seal the bottom first.Solid wood is forever looking for moisture.

I concur. This gentleman knows from where he speaks. Wood is cellulose. Cellulose will compress. It is not elastic, therefore it will not spring back to its original shape. As wood swells from moisture it will push and buckle. If it drys it will leave cracks at the joints. That is why a cross banded substrate under the hardwood veneer is necessary. Kiln dried wood will only take a narrow range of moisture percentage.

There are some woods that are more stable than others. They are denser and less prone to be affected as much by moisture.

So, a laminated face on a plywood substrate should work, even the cork product face over a similar substrate. The teak and holley sheets are made that way. A snap together floating floor should work if not pinned in. It needs a little room to move. Hatches in the middle of the floor probably wouldn't work very well with it.

Stay away from any veneers that are laid on a any kind of fiber or particle substrate.
 
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It is very hard to pass up today high end Vinyl plank flooring. It looks great, wears well and you can easily replace a board if one gets damage. The product will not be affected by water, dirt, or oils.

The real beauty of the high end vinyl strip plank flooring is it is so easy to work in boarders and trims. For instance a mahogany or teak colored floor bordered in an ebony. Even a contrasting color set off the wall 1 strip then a strip of the contrast. It is not a cheap floor, but I agree that it makes a beautiful, durable floor.:thumb:
 
Craig , we installed cork floors with a polyurethane coating about six years ago and have been very pleased with them, lots of kids and dogs, not a mark. You must get the real thing not the "engineered" junk from the bog box stores. Everyone we know who put that stuff in has torn it out.
We have some pictures of the cork floors here
 
Cork??? Please don't as i may be forced to laugh at ya Craigo! Cork is for wine bottles not a floor in a boat. Unless you're old then it's understandable but then again you'd probably think corduroy is fashionable too! Lol :)

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