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Old 07-05-2017, 01:15 PM   #41
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I had the old pump. It failed, ears broken as I was existing the jetty. Towed back to slip and replaced with the new design.
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Old 07-05-2017, 01:46 PM   #42
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Greetings,
Mr. A. "...a couple brass street elbows handy." If these are to be used for plumbing raw water shouldn't they be bronze?
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Old 07-05-2017, 02:50 PM   #43
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I think I see what you mean. That should not be complicated then. Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2017, 04:35 PM   #44
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Not brass, please, bronze!
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Old 07-06-2017, 02:18 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vacser View Post
New one on Ebay. $450 free shipping Jabsco Raw Water Pump 5850-0001 | eBay
The Johnson upgrade pump from American Diesel is $495. Just bought two for my FL 120'S.
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Old 07-06-2017, 04:05 PM   #46
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I'll have to double check. I believe the elbows I used were brass. Is the pump housing itself not brass? Why is brass bad?
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Old 07-23-2017, 02:04 AM   #47
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Here is my new pump (probably with the brass elbows I'm not supposed to use). Note how its cocked a little to the side, gives better room for my little funnel to drain the injection pump oil. In fact maybe better space than with the old raw water pump..
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Old 07-23-2017, 06:55 AM   #48
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Seawater and brass don't play well together.

This from an article from Steve D'Antonio....
Because many brass alloys contain a substantial amount of zinc, they are especially susceptible to “dezincification,” whereby the zinc selectively corrodes and leaves a porous copper shell that retains its shape but has little strength.

Think about why we use zinc in sacrificial anodes....well it's the same with brass fittings.

The full article has an example of a yacht sinking because of a failed brass water pump fitting and why it was NOT covered by insurance (Corrosion clause)

http://www.proboat.com/2012/07/beware-the-brass/
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Old 07-23-2017, 02:15 PM   #49
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Avalanche, how did you rotate the pump to make the outlet clear of the injector pump drain? Is the one nut on the red casting all that prevents the pump from rotating?
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Old 07-23-2017, 03:19 PM   #50
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Quote:
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Avalanche, how did you rotate the pump to make the outlet clear of the injector pump drain? Is the one nut on the red casting all that prevents the pump from rotating?


Correct. You can point it any of 360 degrees worth of direction until the red casting is tightened and hoses are mounted. Pay intention to which is in and which is out. The pump is such that the impeller could spin either direction, as well as the pump could point either direction. I briefly cranked my engine and turned the pump by hand to make sure I had everything going the right way.
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Old 07-23-2017, 03:19 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimer2 View Post
Seawater and brass don't play well together.

This from an article from Steve D'Antonio....
Because many brass alloys contain a substantial amount of zinc, they are especially susceptible to “dezincification,” whereby the zinc selectively corrodes and leaves a porous copper shell that retains its shape but has little strength.

Think about why we use zinc in sacrificial anodes....well it's the same with brass fittings.

The full article has an example of a yacht sinking because of a failed brass water pump fitting and why it was NOT covered by insurance (Corrosion clause)

http://www.proboat.com/2012/07/beware-the-brass/


Makes perfect sense
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:26 PM   #52
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Anything important in the steel tube with tape and rinked hose clamp?
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:59 PM   #53
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Important?! Only the fuel supply to the engine (where is my sarcasm font, haha).. Previous owners fuel connection, I suppose I ought to clean it up. One of those things that seems normal now after looking at it for four years, and list of priorities is long..
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Old 08-07-2017, 04:20 PM   #54
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Don't keep us in suspense. Whats under the tape?
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