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Old 06-21-2017, 12:44 PM   #21
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Thats an interesting idea, I'm intrigued and like the concept. I just realced both the oil and trans cooler in the last year, it'd be a good time to swap them over to the fresh water side...
It does work. I had it on gensets.

Just be aware that in many cases the types of pumps you use to get the best impeller life might not be self priming.
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Old 06-21-2017, 01:50 PM   #22
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I would also run the oil and transmission coolers with coolant not raw water
My transmissions run at 120 F max with raw water. Why would I want to raise the temperatures to 160 F+ by using coolant?

Engine driven raw water pumps speed up and slow down as engine RPM varies. This provides a great way to balance water needs to fuel burn and heat generated.

Sorry XS, but I see nothing but problems running an electric drive raw water pump for our trusty small diesels that with decent preventative maintenance work just fine as is.
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Old 06-21-2017, 03:00 PM   #23
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My Cummins is keel cooled and the transmission and oil coolers work just fine on coolant. Why would yours be any different?

The variable speed is immaterial, you have thermostats.

160 degrees F is well below the operating parameters of your transmission, as per your manual.

You will also get unlimited life out of your coolers and you will never have to change another impeller.

I think its a no-brainer but I also agree that if you are prepared to do all that maintenance and change zincs and flush the coolers, you will live happily ever after, if a bit poorer...

I don't need an electric pump as I am now keel cooled. Fortunately, I do not have a stone-aged raw water cooler pump pumping salt water through all those expensive bits... 8^)
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Old 06-21-2017, 04:19 PM   #24
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[QUOTE=Xsbank;565697]
I think its a no-brainer but I also agree that if you are prepared to do all that maintenance and change zincs and flush the coolers, you will live happily ever after, if a bit poorer... QUOTE]

XS

I never found Fenstrum keel coolers to be maintenance free. Quite the opposite. What type do you have? I'm lucky, no zincs in HXers. In the PNW waters we've found the coolant side to build up more gunk in the HXers than the raw water side.

A dry stack setup versus a "standard" wet exhaust setup is an interesting comparison. A few weeks ago in Anacortes I was looking at two Nordhavns with wet exhaust systems, models that normally would be found with dry stacks. The owner's extolled their virtues vs previous dry stack they had previously owned. Different strokes.
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Old 06-21-2017, 04:30 PM   #25
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With a little mechanical skill you can rebuild your pump. You can press the shaft out with and arbor press, available on line and discount tool stores. In a pinch you can use a big C clamp, sockets and some wood blocks. I rebuild all of my pumps, coolant and salt water for my Detroit mains, Perkins and Cummings generators. New seals and bearings can be bought online or from a good bearing supply. Internal parts are identified by embedded part numbers or measurements. Almost all roller bearings have a stamped in number and bushings come in standard sizes. Seals are identified by internal and outside size and the material. It's not rocket science.
I have a complete set of spares. Some acquired from people throwing away perfectly good pumps needing a new seal.
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Old 06-21-2017, 05:26 PM   #26
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My keel cooler is built right into the keel, not a separate device on the bottom. I have an aluminum boat. I did drain all the fluid out of it (took a glycol bath, not recommended) and replaced it once, did it again a year or two later and filtered it. Its not difficult, just messy. There is also an on-engine coolant filter which I change regularly, but all Cummins have those.
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:40 PM   #27
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I am now keel cooled. Fortunately, I do not have a stone-aged raw water cooler pump pumping salt water through all those expensive bits... 8^)
A mate has an NTA855m Cummins, same as mine in his boat.
He is keel cooled, I am not.
He spends a small fortune on coolant as there is several hundred litres of it.
I spend about $100 as I have about 50 litres
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Old 06-23-2017, 05:06 PM   #28
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A mate has an NTA855m Cummins, same as mine in his boat.
He is keel cooled, I am not.
He spends a small fortune on coolant as there is several hundred litres of it.
I spend about $100 as I have about 50 litres


I mean why would he be changing his coolant a lot?
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Old 06-23-2017, 05:10 PM   #29
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[QUOTE=sunchaser;565723]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xsbank View Post
I think its a no-brainer but I also agree that if you are prepared to do all that maintenance and change zincs and flush the coolers, you will live happily ever after, if a bit poorer... QUOTE]

In the PNW waters we've found the coolant side to build up more gunk in the HXers than the raw water side.
Why is that?
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Old 06-23-2017, 06:57 PM   #30
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I have changed the coolant once. I don't expect to do it again for probably 5 more years. Additives keep it working. My coolers don't even get looked at, no corrosion at all.

I think, with respect, some of you should open your minds a bit...
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Old 06-24-2017, 11:07 AM   #31
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.

I think, with respect, some of you should open your minds a bit...
Some traditions die hard.
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Old 06-24-2017, 12:06 PM   #32
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Boy is that ever true!
Anchors, synthetic oil, oil change intervals, wot running, sea foam, condensation in fuel tanks, nitrogen in tires, poop tank vent filters, electric coolant pumps... all religious dogma, little logic.
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Old 06-25-2017, 01:56 PM   #33
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New one on Ebay. $450 free shipping Jabsco Raw Water Pump 5850-0001 | eBay
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Old 06-25-2017, 03:21 PM   #34
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I mean why would he be changing his coolant a lot?
Where was it said he changes it a lot?

Regardless of how often, when he does change it his costs for coolant are considerably higher than mine.
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:42 PM   #35
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I looked at my keel cooled Cummins (has a nice ring to it, eh?) today and the oil cooler is built right into the block, attached to the oil filter, for all 6CTAs. Cooled by coolant from the factory.
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:55 PM   #36
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Where was it said he changes it a lot?

Regardless of how often, when he does change it his costs for coolant are considerably higher than mine.
Sure. But it's not much spread out over the years of use you get out of it.
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Old 06-25-2017, 11:17 PM   #37
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Thaaks for the input! Spending $500 on a new pump is not an option right now. So what is the likely issue with my actual pump and how do I fix it? Is it something I can do myself?
The reason for an updated American Diesel pump is not a problem with the actual pump but with the connection to the pump drive on the block, it can fail unexpectedly. Of course the new unit includes a brand new pump.
I second dealing with fredwarner1, helpful and quick. But I bought my updated pumps direct from AD, same price I think.
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:49 AM   #38
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Quick update on this project. I received the service kit a few days ago and removed the pump from the engine. Disassembled everything as per the schematic provided by Jabsco. It was actually easier than I expected. I replaced the seal that is just after the impeller since that's where the leak was coming from.

However, once all the parts were loose on the counter I had doubts about my ability to put everything back together correctly. Turns out I must have read the instructions properly as I now have a leak free pump!

That being said, I think I will still order the new pump anyway to have a spare in case it breaks down. When I look at the picture of the new pump, I see gears at the end that attaches to the engine. It's very different from the old pump. How does that work? Do I have to modify something on my engine to make it fit?
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:57 AM   #39
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Greetings,
Mr. F. Ah yes, the infamous original pump with the "ears" that have been known to break off necessitating a redesign. Hence the new gear style pump. Sorry, can't tell you what, if any, alterations have to be made to fit the new style pump BUT you'll be better off changing out the old pump and keeping IT (the old one) as a spare.

Well done on the rebuild. It's usually better not to have any parts left over...
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Old 07-05-2017, 11:50 AM   #40
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No modifications needed for the new pump design. It replaced the whole assembly and gets rid of the old adapter block off the timing case. When you swap it out, you'll remove the old adapter and gear. It was a quick and easy install.

Only caveats are the Hoses position a little different (perfect time to replace your raw water intake hoses) and have a couple brass street elbows handy. I installed mine with the ports leaned to one side (bottom tilted out, top tilted in close to block) so injection pump drain plug is still easily accessible.
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