Here's my assortment. For cutting plugs, a drill press is a must. For the decks/furniture, one of the issues, is to find a counter sink that you can adjust the drill length shallow enough. The one on the right was made by Stanley and is now discontinued but you may be able to find one. The typical deck screw from what I have found seems to be a #8.
This also the same type I use.
Ron on Northern Lights II
I don't like making plans for the day because the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
Mr. S. Don't mortising cut a straight plug as opposed to tapered? Fine if you're going into a tapered hole but if replacing pugs in an existing hole which may be slightly damaged or out of round I would think tapered plugs would fit better. No?[/QUOT
Yes they are straight cut. Brad point drills and combination tapered drill with countersink are straight as well. There seems to enough interferance between the plug and hole.
I use a METAL cutting counterbore I bought years ago to cut the holes in the wood. These things are not cheap but worth it if needed.
They use a removeable pilot rod as a guide. Usually the one that comes with the counterbore is too large but it can be replaced with a smaller piece of rod or the end of a drill bit shank that has been cut off an old drill bit.
In the wood, Drill the first hole the same size as the pilot rod and that will hold the counterbore in line and then the counterbores CAN be done by hand. Just be carefull.
If need be the pilot HOLE can then be enlarged for the screw shank.
It is still best done in a drill press but with a proper counterbore it can be done by hand.
Just match the counterbore to the plug cutter size.