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Old 04-23-2017, 08:03 AM   #41
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Not sure it helps much but we used to have one of these on our Selene. After we replaced all the stainless fittings and wires on the boom lift, I tried to find a similar matching block. I did find one. It was made in France but was pretty expensive. We ended up doing similar to what others have suggested. Having had one catastrophic failure of a stainless shackle on the boom lift, I figured it was better to see the components fully if they were used to lift several hundred pounds overhead. The original and the replacement French block enclosed the fittings such that it was not possible to see corrosion at the internal connections.
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:00 AM   #42
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That was my original thought as well.
First impression was what you pictured was likely an anchor...Chain connector w/o the swivel feature made into the block you showed?

BIG ones weigh more...

You haven't said what's wrong with the one shown...
Is it yours or someone else's you want to copy?

This doesn't seem like rocket science...Lots of good suggestions worth pursuing.

If you want / need an EXACT copy just locate a machine shop and have them duplicate it and fork over some boat$ !!


It's a friend's. He has the same crane, but a different hook arrangement. I'm going to try to make something up that will be similar. Or I'll use a lighter weight pulley/hook that folks have recommended. Either way, I'm going with dyneema to replace the existing wire.
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:03 AM   #43
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Dinghy Crane Pulley/Hook

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Mike,

This is what my rig looks like, and yes we use Dyneema. Our Dink is close to 700 lbs. so we also added another single block to reduce the work on the winch. Hope it helps.


Thanks Chief. I will probably end up with something that looks very similar.

Someone pointed out that adding a block (pulley) doubles the time required to lift the dinghy. Do you find that to be a problem? Is the benefit of reducing the work on the winch worth the cost?
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:28 AM   #44
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Thanks Chief. I will probably end up with something that looks very similar.

Someone pointed out that adding a block (pulley) doubles the time required to lift the dinghy. Do you find that to be a problem? Is the benefit of reducing the work on the winch worth the cost?
It takes a few more seconds to deploy or recover. The winches dont have to work as hard, and the snatch load is less stressful on the boom rigging. We picked up the 2 blocks from Columbia Marine in Portland, they were almost new and about 25% of the cost of new ones.

When we installed these, the New Dyneema and rebuilt the winches, I also incorporated small remote control devices from the 4 wheel community. All of these made Launching and recovering the dink so much safer and easier.
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:33 AM   #45
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It takes a few more seconds to deploy or recover. The winches dont have to work as hard, and the snatch load is less stressful on the boom rigging. We picked up the 2 blocks from Columbia Marine in Portland, they were almost new and about 25% of the cost of new ones.



When we installed these, the New Dyneema and rebuilt the winches, I also incorporated small remote control devices from the 4 wheel community. All of these made Launching and recovering the dink so much safer and easier.


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Old 04-25-2017, 11:50 AM   #46
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Thanks Chief. I will probably end up with something that looks very similar.

Someone pointed out that adding a block (pulley) doubles the time required to lift the dinghy. Do you find that to be a problem? Is the benefit of reducing the work on the winch worth the cost?
If you are adding a block, you may want to check to be sure the crane will handle the extra length of winch line required.
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:16 PM   #47
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If you are adding a block, you may want to check to be sure the crane will handle the extra length of winch line required.
We used it all last season and it worked great. The Dyneema line takes up less space on the drum then the Cable. Another ++ for Dyneema.
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Old 04-25-2017, 04:26 PM   #48
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If you add a pulley, the lifting speed will be halved. This is not a big deal, but is not desirable in a rolly anchorage. We lift 12 feet (25-30 seconds I think). Sometimes we have to wait for a wake to pass us so that we have calmer water during a a lift. If you double the lift time, you will have more chance for the dinghy to swing into something.

We switched to Dynema 3 years ago. It is terrific and we found we do not need the head ache ball on the cable. The weight of the hook is sufficient to let the cable pay out.

Dyneema is simple to splice Just be sure to use the double Brummel lock splice. There are other splices but they are not as secure.

Do not try to tie knots in dyneema it is too slippery. You must splice it but it is simple and actually qqite fun.
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:11 PM   #49
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If you add a pulley, the lifting speed will be halved. This is not a big deal, but is not desirable in a rolly anchorage. We lift 12 feet (25-30 seconds I think). Sometimes we have to wait for a wake to pass us so that we have calmer water during a a lift. If you double the lift time, you will have more chance for the dinghy to swing into something.



We switched to Dynema 3 years ago. It is terrific and we found we do not need the head ache ball on the cable. The weight of the hook is sufficient to let the cable pay out.



Dyneema is simple to splice Just be sure to use the double Brummel lock splice. There are other splices but they are not as secure.



Do not try to tie knots in dyneema it is too slippery. You must splice it but it is simple and actually qqite fun.


Tom, How do you secure the Dyneema to the drum?
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Old 04-26-2017, 06:40 AM   #50
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Mike, I wish I could take it apart and take a picture, that might be easier than describing it. I'll do my best to describe it as well as I can remember it. It has been a few years now since I did it. Your drum may be different. The hoist manufacturer has two cautions. First, spool no more line onto the hoist than is necessary. If you have too much line. as the spool gets larger the hoist motor looses mechanical advantage. But, be sure when the cable is fully out there are at least 4 turns remaining on the drum. So we spliced the hook on the cable and fitted the cable to the crane to be sure we had the length of rope required.

I used electrical shrink tubing. The core of the hoist drum has a 5/16 hole . To dead end the cable it is passed through the hole. I installed the cable and pulled 8" past where it needed it to end. To provide chafe protection where the cable passed through the hole in the central core, I put a 3 or 4" section of shrink wrap tubing over the 3/16 dyneema to provide chafe protection leaving about a 4" tail . I tied a figure 8 knot in the rope, I put a 1-2" length of 1/4 shrink tube on the tail of the tail after the knot and heated it to shrink it and glue it to the rope so that the knot could not slide off the end. Then I slid the 4" section of shrink tubing snug against the knot and heated it to glue it into place. Then I put a 1" piece of larger shrink tubing onto the knot and shrank it to lock the knot. Then I pulled the cable so that the knot was snug inside the center of the drum. Where the cable contacted the hole in the drum, it was now protected from chafe by the shrink tubing.
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Old 04-26-2017, 06:56 AM   #51
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Mike, as a bit of background and perspective. Our hoist motor came from Atkins and Hoyle. They told us it was a Rule Industries boat trailer winch. Our dinghy is a 130# rib with a 9.9hp 4 stroke. I would imagine the total boat, engine, gear weight is 250-275#. We cruise full time, and with a dog, so the hoist gets a lot of use. Over the past 7 full years of cruising with this rig, I would guess the dinghy has gone up and down 500+/- times.
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