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Old 07-06-2015, 07:38 AM   #41
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Sounds good FF. I like an orbital.... This modification work of the pads work ok with an orbital, perhaps gluing to orbital loop pads?
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Old 07-06-2015, 05:57 PM   #42
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The first coat two part System Three Quick Fair. We will sand and second coat tomorrow then prime and paint .
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:13 AM   #43
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An orbital sander is for trim and tiny spots.

The use of a grinder with floor sanding paper is for cleaning large rough areas very quickly.

A Dutch friend borrowed my set up and wooded the bottom of a 50 ft deep draft sailboat with ONE piece of sanding sheet, took much of a day, I did say he was Dutch tho.
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:22 AM   #44
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Done
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:16 AM   #45
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We also added small rug .
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:26 AM   #46
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The house floor sanding operators use vicious machine mounted drum sanders for stripping old timber floor finishes incl 2 pack, and for leveling floors for refinishing. You could explore that, you may be able to hire them from DIY equipment hire places. They use smaller hand machines for corners and edge detailing, they may not be aggressive enough for your job.
As an aside, many of the wood floor finishes (prefinished flooring) now contain aluminum oxide powder to add to their toughness. I am told these are extreamly difficult to refinish as they dull the sanding belts almost instantly. There are many stories of refinishers just packing up and leaving the job when they discover what they are dealing with.
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Old 07-11-2015, 09:09 AM   #47
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Great picture in #45 Marty.

If you recall our afterdeck is much smaller but the Willard 30 Voyager is smaller yet.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:42 AM   #48
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"As an aside, many of the wood floor finishes (prefinished flooring) now contain aluminum oxide powder to add to their toughness. I am told these are extreamly difficult to refinish as they dull the sanding belts almost instantly. There are many stories of refinishers just packing up and leaving the job when they discover what they are dealing with."

This is the reason deck no skid is ground walnut shells , and only on the budget jobs is real sand used.

On my launch epoxy and shards of flint (carrier deck material) requires a hammer and chisel for removal.

After a few decades ,of wear , bare feet do not bleed..
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:08 AM   #49
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As an aside, many of the wood floor finishes (prefinished flooring) now contain aluminum oxide powder to add to their toughness. I am told these are extreamly difficult to refinish as they dull the sanding belts almost instantly. There are many stories of refinishers just packing up and leaving the job when they discover what they are dealing with.
Brooksie,

You are right, those finishes are tough. I have done several not because the finish was worn but because the homeowners wanted to change the color.

Start with 36#, 60#, 80#, 100# then a 120# screen on the buffer. Slow going but it comes off. Under the radiators and in the corners is the hardest. Stripper will not touch it and the scraper just skates over the finish. A heat gun and lots of patience is needed.

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Old 07-12-2015, 10:19 PM   #50
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Sounds like a poor prep problem, don't sand above 220G and male sure it's the right primers & they have cured fully, with everything degreased properly etc. My Boat deck is done with Inter deck paint. Took a few days to fully cure, but hard as a rock now.
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