Cracks in cap rail

[Moonfish]

Looking for advice. I have some cracks in the teak cap rails. The PO had filled them years ago, but the repairs are failing and leaks are starting. I don't know what material he used, but I am digging what's left out of the cracks so I can refill.

Question is, what do I use to fill the cracks? And no, I'm not going to the expense of replacing the cap rails, so a repair is all I can do.

I've used pre-made wood filler before for similar repairs, but that seemed difficult to work with. I've also mixed teak dust with epoxy and that seemed a little easier to control. In the end I'll end up sanding and then protect with Awlwood.

Anyone have any experience or knowledge of what I should use?

 

[koliver]

Looking for advice. I have some cracks in the teak cap rails. The PO had filled them years ago, but the repairs are failing and leaks are starting. I don't know what material he used, but I am digging what's left out of the cracks so I can refill.

Question is, what do I use to fill the cracks? And no, I'm not going to the expense of replacing the cap rails, so a repair is all I can do.

I've used pre-made wood filler before for similar repairs, but that seemed difficult to work with. I've also mixed teak dust with epoxy and that seemed a little easier to control. In the end I'll end up sanding and then protect with Awlwood.

Anyone have any experience or knowledge of what I should use?

Screws. Put in from the narrow side, to pull it towards the wide side.
First, finish removing the failed filler and try to get the mating surfaces clean. Then epoxy, thickened a bit, use a spatula to smear it on fairly thick. Use a wedge to hold the surfaces as far apart as you are comfortable with while buttering the surfaces with goo. Pre-drill your screw holes and use coarse thread SS wood screws long enough to reach well into the wide side, but not through. Space the screws 4" to 6" apart. Countersink the screw hole so you can use plugs to hide them..Once the epoxy is no longer sticky, cut off the squeeze out. Once it is really hard, sand it level.

Once you have a fix that you are happy with do the next piece, as it shows the beginning of the same problem in your picture.

 

[Pete Meisinger]

Black Deck Caulk if you want to stand out. Beige or grey if you are trying to hide it.

pete

 

[GoneFarrell]

Moon,
First answer the question "why is the crack there?"
IMHO its because the board has shrunk over time, hence the crack between primary fasteners. Could be different reason, but that's my humble opinion.

My opinion, with all due respect to koliver: pulling hard on the crack with screws will put big shear load onto the original rail fasteners, so if it moves, it moves at those screw joints. You decide if that's ok or not. Cross-screws will add some strength to the area if you don't overdo it.

I have used Life Caulk goo on cracks due to stress or hits and closed them with screws. I fill the crack from the bottom up with a loaded 10cc syringe with a pointy tip. If you use the teak-colored goo it will almost disappear under Awlgrip. Have fun!

 

[kchace]

Teak dust mixed with epoxy is a good idea if you want to help it blend in. Precoat with unthickened epoxy, then thicken the epoxy with the teak dust fill the gap (this can all be done at the same time with the same batch of epoxy). Do it before you sand before varnishing to help it blend in further.


Ken