Caulk for screwing teak to teak

[jwag956]

We are getting our (teak) port-of-call board updated - it is fastened with 4 SS wood screws to the (teak) transom. When I removed the board, there was some clear caulk like substance around each hole (not sure it was inside the screw hole or not, and the screws had nothing on them). It was easily peeled off.
Question - when re-fastening - what should I use - something like 3M 4000UV?

Water definitely gets behind the port-of-call-board so I can see that somehow sealing the screw holes would be a good idea..

Thanks.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. jw. That old stuff sounds, to me, like that dreaded devil's goop-silicone. You might try butyl tape (bt), liberally applied. When, NOT if, you do this again, the bt will not present a removal problem that you might experience with caulk/sealant. Now might be a good time to ream out the old screw holes a bit and put some epoxy in there. I hope the UGH silicone allows for adhesion.

 

[Giggitoni]

Like RTF alluded, most folks claim that silicon should not be allowed on a boat! Way worse than bananas.

Yes, the holes should be sealed. Sikaflex? We also use nylon spacers (about 1/8” thick) between the boards and transom. This allows water (and air) to flow easily in and out, especially the out.

Edit: I just noticed you have a GB. Your transom is probably varnished. More reason for you to use spacers. We don’t want water in there eating away and getting under our transom varnish. Then you’ll have another item to add to your “to do list”.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. G. Nylon spacers are a MUCH better idea for mounting. Air flow IS important. Thanks.

 

[koliver]

Greetings,
Mr. G. Nylon spacers are a MUCH better idea for mounting. Air flow IS important. Thanks.

Did anyone mention that silicone should NEVER appear on anyone's boat?
I have SS washers as spacers behind my boards, though mine are on a FG transom.

 

[Nomad Willy]

We are getting our (teak) port-of-call board updated - it is fastened with 4 SS wood screws to the (teak) transom. When I removed the board, there was some clear caulk like substance around each hole (not sure it was inside the screw hole or not, and the screws had nothing on them). It was easily peeled off.
Question - when re-fastening - what should I use - something like 3M 4000UV?

Water definitely gets behind the port-of-call-board so I can see that somehow sealing the screw holes would be a good idea..

Thanks.

There ust’a be a marine caulk specially formulated for the oily teak. Life Caulk perhaps is the name.
I’d consider the oily caulk called “Dolphinite”. I’ve seen it last 30-40 years. It’s an oil based product that has little adhesion .. very little. But your screws have that job covered. The only downside to using Dolphinite is the fact that it can squeeze out around the edges. Just scrape it up w a putty knife and wipe w a rag. And when you take your board off in the future it will be very easy.

Other than Dolphinite I’d use SikaFlex.

Also you might consider a bead of either caulk under the top edge of the board to minimize water running down behind the board. Don’t seal up the bottom as water will get in and be trapped causing the usual troubles.

Oh I forgot ..
Sounds like the PO did use sillycone. Find out what solvent is best for removing the residue. If you use Dolfhinite it may be a good idea to coat the back of the board w oil. Tung, Linseed oil or similar.

 

[Comodave]

I never use silicone, you can’t get it off and then nothing else will stick. I like Sika products as well as butyl tape. But butyl can be difficult to get compressed properly when screwed. I would also use spacers to stand it off the surface.

 

[jgwinks]

Probably the best way to protect the wood from water intrusion is to drill the holes larger to get rid of the goop and fill with thickened epoxy. Then redrill the correct size in the epoxy plug and remount your board with spacers.