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Old 04-23-2018, 05:39 PM   #41
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Thanks all for your suggestions .There seems to be no definitive answer. We have very limited product to choose from in Australia due to the very small market so many brand suggestions are not available here . The previous restoration of my cap rails look to have used floor varnish ???? and Im very nervous how we will remove whats on there without damaging the rails.

We have place a order for one of these on recommendation of a furniture restorer she said its the best method she has ever used .Has any one else used one ??

http://i-strip.com.au/product/speedheater-cobra/
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:17 PM   #42
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The heater might be great if you had a large area. But a conventional heat gun would also work well on varnish.

If you have 'floor varnish', ie polyurethane, then sanding it will likely be as easy to do as anything else. Cap rails are not that big an area, it won't take very long.
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:34 PM   #43
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I've had good and lasting results with "Bristol".
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:55 PM   #44
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The heater might be great if you had a large area. But a conventional heat gun would also work well on varnish.

If you have 'floor varnish', ie polyurethane, then sanding it will likely be as easy to do as anything else. Cap rails are not that big an area, it won't take very long.
+1 on the heat gun, followed with some sanding. Once you get the blistering right, it`s quick and easy,though I only use it on my nameboards.(Also useful for good crackling on roast pork!)
The nameboards get Cetol TGL Gloss, which I get at Bunnings. It`s clear. I sometimes use a wood stain under it to get "teak" without sanding away lots of wood.
Gaston, the PO of your boat has seen the error of his ways and is oiling the cap rails of his Clipper 40. It looks good.
My main aim is avoiding repeatedly going back to bare wood.I`ll accept a finish that looks "ok to good" rather than "great", as a compromise.
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:00 PM   #45
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+1 on the heat gun, followed with some sanding. Once you get the blistering right, it`s quick and easy,though I only use it on my nameboards.(Also useful for good crackling on roast pork!)
The nameboards get Cetol TGL Gloss, which I get at Bunnings. It`s clear. I sometimes use a wood stain under it to get "teak" without sanding away lots of wood.
Gaston, the PO of your boat has seen the error of his ways and is oiling the cap rails of his Clipper 40. It looks good.
My main aim is avoiding repeatedly going back to bare wood.I`ll accept a finish that looks "ok to good" rather than "great", as a compromise.



Thanks Bruce I may sneak down this week and have a look at the Clippers rails
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:03 PM   #46
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Time has come to strip and prep my cap rails to make ready for some form of oil or varnish . At present I'm told they have a 2 pak varnish that's failed the Australian sun in just 14 months so.
I'm calling on the brain trust and ask what they have used in HOT conditions.


Were just doing the teak on our Albin, and have been told thats Australian Timber Oil holds up well in our Southern climes. I cant verify this personally, but the person who told us had a 38 trawler that looked amazing. Check with me in 6 months, and Ill let you know how it stands up.
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:06 PM   #47
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Were just doing the teak on our Albin, and have been told thats Australian Timber Oil holds up well in our Southern climes. I cant verify this personally, but the person who told us had a 38 trawler that looked amazing. Check with me in 6 months, and Ill let you know how it stands up.


Do you have a brand name for the oil didnt know there was a Ozz made one
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:11 PM   #48
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Were just doing the teak on our Albin, and have been told that Australian Timber Oil holds up well in our Southern climes....
The Feast Watson company here makes a decking oil. What brand you are using?
I`m not sure the country of origin matters, Deks Olje is(?was) Scandinavian manufactured. Oil left as the final finish usually needs replenishing every 3 months or so,but that can be as simple as an oily rag wipe over.
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Old 06-28-2021, 04:10 PM   #49
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Fleming Caprails "Burrwod" vs. Teak

Hi all - I would love to hear from anyone who has actual experience with Fleming "Burrwood" caprails. Wondering what maintenance looks like (how often, how much $) and how the caprails look after 5+ years of duty.

Thanks!
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Old 06-28-2021, 04:44 PM   #50
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I first used Cetol (natural), but it was not very durable at all. It may well be a lot better if you use a coat of epoxy first. Despite the warnings!

Whitworths carry a two-part epoxy sealer which has consistency of water, even after mixing, and penetrates quite well. Leave it to dry for 4 days, then apply whatever you wish. Although I just noticed they say to only use a clear finish in permanently shaded areas. So You might need a tinted product, such as Cetol, before a clear gloss.
I have only used it on teak hatch trims, which I decided to paint.

https://www.whitworths.com.au/norgla...reatment-clear

I have seen very good results for Awlwood. It has several shades, but can be a bit too reddish for some. I think its best left for professional's to apply as there are some tricks to getting it right.

Before I discovered the NorSeal I went the Deks Olje route. You apply multiple coats of #1, wet on wet, until no more can be absorbed. Then wipe off with a cloth. Allow 3 days to dry, then apply multiple coats of #2 with a day between coats. I'm reasonably happy with results. After 6 months a light rub with a green scourer pad using #1 oil. Then a couple of coats of #2. Its all quite painless! I believe #2 is a polyurethane.

What I am testing on one section of rail for the 6mth top-up is a light, dry sand of the rail, then Cabots Exterior Polyurethane 'Marine Grade' (from Bunnings). It seems more durable then the Deks Olje #2. At least a year, perhaps longer. Cabots by itself is durable enough but the wood gets bleached underneath, hence my preference for using Deks Olje first.

For my decks, I first used Starbrite Tropical Teak Sealer (light). Its Ok, but not great. Then I used the Teak Wonder system. Teak cleaner, then brightener and then multiple coats of Sealer. It is easy to apply but does no last very long. Worse, it leaches out with rain, and stains the gelcoat beneath the scuppers.

So now I'm using Deks Olje, #1 oil only. I thinks that's what I'll be sticking with.
Hi Brian,

I know this post is a few years old now, but how did that test with the cap rail go- Cabots Exterior Poly over Deks Olje #1?

George
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Old 06-28-2021, 05:47 PM   #51
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Another data point:

Last year we coated the teak chairs and table on our home deck with Waterlox as a test. We left them exposed to PNW weather and the finish still looks good. Based on that, we undertook refinishing the cap rail.

We washed, dried, then hand sanded with 150. Then using a microfiber cloth rubbed/buffed on one good coat of their Universal Tung Oil Sealer. After a day, wiped it down with another microfiber cloth. Then three coats of the Marine Satin finish applied over three days with foam brushes. This consumed almost all of the quart that I bought.

We are pleased with the initial results. Now the real test begins...how long will it last?

I had never heard of Waterlox before, despite using many different systems/products on various boats over the decades. Im hoping this is the unicorn we've all been waiting for.
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Old 06-28-2021, 05:55 PM   #52
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Hi Brian,

I know this post is a few years old now, but how did that test with the cap rail go- Cabots Exterior Poly over Deks Olje #1?

George
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I'm not doing it anymore....

It may have given a little more life, but not much. I have been using Deks Olje still since I don't have a convenient local supplier of Awlwood. Although its usually available at Coomera https://marinetradesupplies.com.au/?...28619384765625

I have found that provided I add a couple of additional coats of Deks #2 each year then I don't get the bleaching, suggesting that lots of coats are needed to counter the UV exposure we get here. Which product you use may be less important than the number of coats. I now think its a minimum of 6 for first time, then 2 or 3 annually.
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