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Old 01-29-2021, 05:43 PM   #1
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Butyl tape lesson needed

I am installing four new windows in my salon using butyl tape. I have watched you tube video's and last night I tried installing one. What is the best way to put it on and make it flat and be sure it seals. I will be removing my freshly installed window and try again tomorrow. All advice is appreciated.
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Old 01-29-2021, 06:23 PM   #2
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Butyl tape is pretty easy and forgiving. If you use to little you won’t get a good seal and you will need to remove the window and try again. To much butyl tape and it will ooze out for a year, not the worst problem.

If all parts mate up well then one layer of butyl tape will do the job. If you are installing flat windows on a curved surface it could take 2 or 3 layers of butyl tape at the ends to make a good seal.

For me the real trick is to tighten the screws a few revolutions at a time and then move on to the next one. This gives the butyl a chance to ooze into all the right places. Better to come back and re-tighten each screw many times then over tighten and damage something.
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Old 01-29-2021, 06:28 PM   #3
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Absolutely you have to tighten it slowly over at least 3 days if the temperatures are reasonable, longer if it is cooler. Marinehowto.com has some DIY with butyl tape articles. I use his butyl in sealing a lot of things.
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Old 01-29-2021, 06:33 PM   #4
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Don't forget to chamfer all holes so the tape is forced around fasteners. Also a small piece rolled round and placed under flat / oval head bolts / screws ensure a seal at the outside.
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Old 01-29-2021, 06:34 PM   #5
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I DON'T make it flat...I usually fold it in half or pinch it up to make sure it fills any gap.


I then screw it down snug, not necessarily finished tight, but good enough to get squeeze out.


Then over the next few day keep tightening...then check again several weeks and months later.
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Old 01-29-2021, 08:58 PM   #6
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Do you use it at its full thickness? In one video the guy pulled and rolled it to make it thinner then worked it to flatten it out on the window flange. I tried doing it their way and the outside flange is now out 1/8" the thickness of the hand flattened butyl tape. I have not tried to pull it in with the screws in case I need to remove it. I am installing windows made by Motion Industries which have self tapping screws on the inside using a trim ring. Lots of care when tightening them I would hate to strip any.
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Old 01-29-2021, 09:10 PM   #7
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I use enough tape to make sure it fills the gap, pinching or rolling if it seems like not enough single thickness...a second layer could be used but often it would be way too much.


Squeeze out just like regular caulk is the tell tale...if it doesn't, pull up and add some...my windows were the same with the interior clamp ring, so yes firm but careful tightening is the way to go.
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Old 01-29-2021, 09:30 PM   #8
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A glass guy told me to spray it with water or Windex after applying it to the cabin just before you put the window in. Gives you a little time to reposition.
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Old 01-29-2021, 09:39 PM   #9
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Be aware that in hot sun climates the butyl can 'melt' and actually drip out. That happened to us both with the black butyl we got with our beautiful NFM SS ports and with a gray butyl tape we got from some RV place.

I don't think it actually caused any leaks but it made a bit of a mess.

It was a problem in Mexico going south on the Pacific side.
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Old 01-29-2021, 09:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unclematt View Post
Do you use it at its full thickness? In one video the guy pulled and rolled it to make it thinner then worked it to flatten it out on the window flange. I tried doing it their way and the outside flange is now out 1/8" the thickness of the hand flattened butyl tape. I have not tried to pull it in with the screws in case I need to remove it. I am installing windows made by Motion Industries which have self tapping screws on the inside using a trim ring. Lots of care when tightening them I would hate to strip any.
Yes, you can work it out thinner but the caution is not to make it too thin so it doesn’t seal properly. By all means do not over tighten it all at once. Just start with a bit of compression and each day snug it a bit more. Even if it takes 7 or 8 days to secure it, it is better than stripping out the threads. With through bolts and nuts I usually do 3 days of tightening, but with tapped screws I would take a lot longer to tighten it up. Once you strip it out you can’t back it off and have it work ok...
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Old 01-30-2021, 08:28 AM   #11
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Great tip wetting it to allow for adjusting. The one I set in the other night is not square and is to far forward for the ring to fit luckily I only have a thinner layer of tape so I will take it back out and reinstall. This is my first foray into installing windows using tape and the advice is greatly appreciated. Thank You
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Old 01-30-2021, 08:38 AM   #12
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So far after a summer in Florida, none of the 3 different tapes I have used have "melted", really haven't seen anything unusual with the 3-7 year old tape.


I haven't experienced that issue and there are many an RV using it on windows that are kept down here in central Florida. It gets plenty hot and squeezes out more....maybe just not tropical hot enough.


Maybe be careful where or what tape you buy if you can even tell a difference....I don't....


Here is what Dicor claims for their butyl tape


Appearance: Grey, extruded butyl sealant tape.
Temperatures: Application: 30°F – 110° F Operating limits: -20°F – 275° F.
Low Temperature Flexibility: No cracking, no adhesion loss at -20°F.
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Old 01-30-2021, 12:14 PM   #13
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Butyl Tape install

Check out this web page for excellent informative instructions:

https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/
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Old 01-30-2021, 07:17 PM   #14
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Click image for larger version

Name:	new windows.jpg
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ID:	113649 Here is the finished picture, I am very pleased. All your collective bits of advice helped make the job quite easy. Thanks
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Old 01-30-2021, 07:55 PM   #15
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Glad it worked out for you, another butyl expert on board now.
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Old 01-31-2021, 08:09 PM   #16
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One trick I have used although no help to you for this project is to use clamps and scraps of wood for the compression of the tape. I also cut it , not applying the full 1/2" width,

I still go clamping lightly but it has worked well on my door frame trim, darn Teak, and my portlights. That way the screws have very little to do with compressing the tape.
They just get to secure it all once done.
THis own't work in all situations of course but nonetheless I have saved my self a bunch of effort and time with the clamp and clamping blocks/strips.


Before I forget, Nicely done.
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Old 01-31-2021, 10:34 PM   #17
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Easily the best write up I've seen (and now try to follow) on bedding fittings:

https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/
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Old 02-01-2021, 12:57 AM   #18
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Great advise here and thanks for the link to "How to Marine" The only problem is the more I read the bigger my to do list gets.
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Old 02-01-2021, 01:17 PM   #19
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One thing I've found that helps is to make up some 'guide screws'. I get a couple of extra long screw that match the holes in the frame/boat, cut the heads off with an angle grinder, and then use vice grips to put two of these into two holes in the frame on the boat, one on each side.

Then after I've applied the butyl tape to the window, I can place the window onto the 'guide screws' and slide it into place with perfect alignment, put some of the other screws in and then replace the guides with the proper screws. This eliminates the chance of the butyl getting pushed/pulled out of place when trying to reposition it for screw alignment, because it's already aligned at first contact.
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Old 02-05-2021, 07:09 PM   #20
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Maybe a bit left field but I have used butyl on a number of sealing jobs and found that in hot climates, it just continues to squeeze out every time it gets very hot. Suggestion from somewhere was to set it with some thin rubber string (Oring make up cord) cut into short pieces that are in middle of the butyl tape. Gives a guaranteed thickness of butyl, can't squeeze up until thickness is almost nothing, a definite stop when doing up and some spring to hold fasteners tensioned. Found it worked like a dream.
Lots of other good suggestions from others too, wetting, guide fasteners, sealing heads of fasteners.
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