Bottom paint type

[Westiculo]

I know there's a million posts on this, but I'm hoping somebody with knowledge on the matter might be able to tell me and save me a day of reading. Ablative or copper or soft or hard, what brand - I have no idea.

So, to choose a paint, I think these are the factors.
The boat is in Boston harbor, so chilly northeast waters.
Obviously it's a trawler, so we rarely go faster than 9 knots.
We go on a short cruise every week or two, and weekend trips about once a month.
It stays in the water during the winter (we are liveaboards) with the rare cruise.
I would like to haul out every other year, but have a diver come clean on the off year.
I don't know what paint is on there right now, but I'm ideally looking for teal colored paint.

I apologize for my laziness, but what should I get??

 

[Donna]

I went to the Bahamas for a bottom paint but I live in Florida warm waters. I can’t imagine having a diver on an “off” year. I have a diver once a month.

I’m sorry I can’t help you with northeast waters.

 

[dhays]

I know there's a million posts on this, but I'm hoping somebody with knowledge on the matter might be able to tell me and save me a day of reading. Ablative or copper or soft or hard, what brand - I have no idea.

So, to choose a paint, I think these are the factors.
The boat is in Boston harbor, so chilly northeast waters.
Obviously it's a trawler, so we rarely go faster than 9 knots.
We go on a short cruise every week or two, and weekend trips about once a month.
It stays in the water during the winter (we are liveaboards) with the rare cruise.
I would like to haul out every other year, but have a diver come clean on the off year.
I don't know what paint is on there right now, but I'm ideally looking for teal colored paint.

I apologize for my laziness, but what should I get??

I am in the PNW so the boat generally sits in water between 48-52 degrees year round. I only haul the boat when specific work needs to be done. I have a diver check and clean the bottom quarterly. Often, in the winter months the diver ends up not doing an cleaning as there is no growth. The diver checks the anodes and replaces them as needed.

So, if you are hauling the boat to be cleaned, I think it is waste of money. I spent under $400/yr on the diver services. If for some reason I have to haul the boat for some specific work (it was some fiberglass work on the swim step the last time) then the boat gets a pressure wash and I tell the diver to reset the schedule and check the boat in the water 3 months later. My diver tells me the condition of the bottom paint and can give me an indication of when I'll need to repaint.

FWIW, my boat has a hard bottom paint, can't tell you which one.

 

[timb]

check this out .it's a survey from actual boat owners . the map lets you see what people in your area have used and what they think about it.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/surveyMap.do?surveyId=101

 

[O C Diver]

I go back and forth between Chesapeake Bay and Fort Myers FL. On my charter boat I run an ablative paint. The boats in the water for 6 months and runs 15 knots, so the ablative works. My trawler runs 7 knots, so the ablative doesn't work, imo. To keep the trawler clean, the bottom gets scrubbed about once a month depending where I am. Unfortunately, having the bottom scrubbed takes the ablative paint off. So, with the fall haul out, I'll be going back to hard. Haven't decided yet, but my leading contender is Pettit Trinidad.

Ted

 

[Hamrow]

We're not experts but just had ours done in the PNW, which might be similar to the NE. My understanding is for one thing, its easier to go back with the same type of paint you had on there before (hard vs. ablative), probably due to how much sanding or prep work is required.
We went with hard Pettit Trinidad SR; "SR" meaning Slime Resistant, which like many does have some copper content. Note that some environmentally aggressive states are working to ban copper content in these paints, so some of the suppliers are developing non-copper alternatives. Like I said we just got it for the beginning of this cruising season so it will be a while before I can say how well it performs.
FWIW Pettit and some other companies have a self-help web based menu system to help you decide what kind of paint is right for your boat and region.
This is the one for Pettit: Pettit Paints - PERFECT PICK selector system I think Interlux has this selector on their website too.
West Marine also has a site where they have articles and give advice on this topic here:
https://www.westmarine.com/bottom-paint

 

[BruceK]

Westiculo, good to know what is there now, not all paints are compatible. You might need to undercoat if you can`t establish what it is. And, is what is there now working?
Local antifouling applicators, and/or hull cleaners should have good first hand knowledge of what works.
In water cleaning of hard can be more aggressive than ablative, but there are water/air wand cleaning methods for ablative. TF has a resident cleaner diver,can`t think of his name, someone else might.
I wouldn`t want color choice to dictate the a/f you use, but Jotun has a slightly washed out mid blue in their ablative Seaguardian, I get impressive mileage with their product.

 

[Insequent]

The forum's 'Fstbttms' is our resident guru on this stuff, but he is in San Fran and so not really cold water.

In cold water (Boston, PNW) I'm not sure choice matters all that much as growth is quite slow. But I was only in the PNW for a year, so limited personal experience.

Since being back in Australia, and in Queensland which is similar to Florida, I have antifouled at 12-18 moth intervals. The last couple of times was Micron Extra, and ablative. It might well have lasted 2 years but did rapidly get a lot of slime near the waterline, despite some gentle brushing.

I had to haul for an insurance survey so have changed to Jotun Seavictor 50. Local word is that it is the best for this area. A dock neighbour uses it gets far less slime than I did, so worth a try. Hoping for 2 years, but with ablative you cannot get aggressive with diver/cleaning.

I think the comment above about finding out what local boaters find the best paint is the right way to go.

 

[Westiculo]

Hey, thanks for the tips guys. I'm still trying to figure what to get. I have no idea what the PO put on there; I called his yard so hopefully they get back to me. The paint that is on there has no hard growth at all, but loads of soft growth - it currently looks like an unmowed lawn. I haven't taken the boat for a spin yet this spring, so I'm curious if it will all fall off. Do you guys brush the bottom from the docks at all to get rid of that crap?

 

[dhays]

Hey, thanks for the tips guys. I'm still trying to figure what to get. I have no idea what the PO put on there; I called his yard so hopefully they get back to me. The paint that is on there has no hard growth at all, but loads of soft growth - it currently looks like an unmowed lawn. I haven't taken the boat for a spin yet this spring, so I'm curious if it will all fall off. Do you guys brush the bottom from the docks at all to get rid of that crap?

You can brush from the dock, but I don’t know that it will be terribly effective. I’ve seen folks who create an angled brush with PVD and put a float on it to hold it up against the bottom so you can reach further inboard. More effecting on FD hull shapes.

However, that is the reason for having a diver regularly clean it. You don’t end up with the green carpet and the growth has less time to adhere firmly.

As others have mentioned, fstbtms should weigh in at some point.

 

[kchace]

I know there's a million posts on this, but I'm hoping somebody with knowledge on the matter might be able to tell me and save me a day of reading. Ablative or copper or soft or hard, what brand - I have no idea.

So, to choose a paint, I think these are the factors.
The boat is in Boston harbor, so chilly northeast waters.
Obviously it's a trawler, so we rarely go faster than 9 knots.
We go on a short cruise every week or two, and weekend trips about once a month.
It stays in the water during the winter (we are liveaboards) with the rare cruise.
I would like to haul out every other year, but have a diver come clean on the off year.
I don't know what paint is on there right now, but I'm ideally looking for teal colored paint.

I apologize for my laziness, but what should I get??

For MA and NH waters I've been using Interlux ACT and that has been working pretty well on our trawler.

Ken

 

[Larry M]

I grew up in New England and boated there. Most boats haul every winter and use an ablative. The ones that stayed in the water mostly used hard paints such as Trinidad SR.

What do you have on the bottom now? You need to check for compatibility. You can’t just paint over an ablative with a hard as an example. There’s a little more to it than that but all the major paint companies have compatibility charts. Stay warm.

 

[Moonfish]

Four years ago we applied Copper Coat, which is technically not a "paint" but more of an epoxy-based coating. We are still extremely pleased and have experienced zero barnacle growth on the entire hull. We do get the green slime, but that comes off super easy with either a scrub pad or a plastic scraper. We spend $100/yr on a diver (at about this time of year) to wipe the hull off, clean props and check anodes. Depending on how long you wish to keep your boat (as it's not cheap and needs to be applied to either gelcoat or an epoxy barrier coat), we highly recommend it. We will not need to redo the bottom for another 10 years or more.

But don't confuse Copper Coat (founded in the UK in the early 90s and only available in the US since 2009) with a product that used to available here called CopperPoxy. That stuff did not work all that well, as it required sanding each season to re-expose the flakes of cuprous oxide.

Fstbttms is a diver in the Bay area and hates Copper Coat for some reason, so he usually chimes in with vehement opposition...

 

[geoleo]

If you ever plan to cruise into fresh water do not use Micron 66 ablatative as the fresh water will quickly ruin it. Otherwise it is the best (and most expensive) for all salt water.

 

[mike66]

I've had great performance with Pettit Hydrocoat Eco. We're only in the water May to October in Narragansett Bay, but the bottom comes out with nothing on it, no hard or soft growth. I re-coat every other year. We use our boat a little more than you, but mostly it's 2-5 hour runs followed by several days on the hook.
Can't imagine you'd get much growth over the winter, this stuff is really strong. I use it on the running gear too, it's the only place that wears off a little, and I might get couple of barnacles on the prop hub. It's also compatible with most paints.
https://www.boatingmag.com/pettit-hydrocoat-eco-test-part-2

 

[Fish53]

I'm in Maine and I always use multiple layers of ablative (Petit Horizons) in differing colors so I can tell how much has worn off, I get about a year to a layer but my boat doesn't sit on the mooring very much.

 

[JDCAVE]

The PO used Pettit Trinidad and I’m now at 5 years and in the water year round. However, I also spend 8-9 months in freshwater so have little fouling, only a scum. I was on the cusp of repainting this year but will do it next year. I will use Pettit Trinidad again, providing I can import it into British Columbia.

Edit: I’m told that the hard paints provide for better fuel economy.

 

[High Wire]

I used ACT this season and results were poor. 5 months in SWFL and I had heavy mat of 1/2 inch barnacles. 7 knots is not enough for ACT to work properly.
Used SeaHawk Monterrey last season and had about 1/5 of the growth. Was hoping for something better. Guess I'll be going back to SH.
I need ablative because my boat is hauled for the summer in FL.

 

[Mark P]

Need help on bottom paint issue: My diver tells me my bottom paint is failing and coming off in "sheets" to use his words. The boat is a 28 ft Sea Ray, planing hull, that I bought new last year, had bottom painted, and it sits in a salt water marina in South Carolina. I get the bottom cleaned each month, use it 1 or 2 times per month. Taking into account winter services etc, the boat has been in salt water about 10 of the 14 months since commissioned. From reading these threads, sounds like my seller MarineMax put on the wrong paint as it should not be coming off? Am I missing something or this is just the way bottom paint works in the neck of the woods? Growth is strong here, and water gets very warm with 7 foot tides.

 

[Bacchus]

I'm not familiar w salt water but my thinking is if it is coming off in sheets the problem is likely surface prep vs wrong paint.
It would probably help if you repirted what was used and others w salt water experience can comment on paint choice.

 

[HopCar]

In South Florida Interlux Micron 66 is the choice for ablative, Pettit Trinidad SR for a hard paint. They both are copper with an extra anti-slime ingredient. I think the anti-slime ingredient is important in extending the life of the paint. Cheaper paints just don’t work as well.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I’m not always a big fan of “do what the locals do” but in Alaska we used the bottom paint that almost all the locals used. Dirt cheap ($80gal) and it worked quite well. It was Petitt Sea Mate.

Again we are using local as in what the yard uses. It works even better than the Sea Mate.

 

[Mark P]

I don't know the paint, but I suspect that it is the ablative type from reading this forum. I have the boat cleaned by divers each month, so maybe that may be too much for this paint. As I am educating myself, I see threads that this paint is supposed to be good for frequent use, but not good for being rubbed each month by divers. When I put it on rack in December to do annual maintenance etc., I will find out, and probably repaint the whole thing and make sure its done right. Thanks

 

[JDCAVE]

Hmmm! I just inquired at the border and CBSA informs me that I am unable to bring Pettit Trinidad SR across the border. I haven’t purchased the paint yet. I’m not giving up just yet, but anyone have any thoughts? I’m looking for a good quality non ablative paint.

Jim

 

[Westiculo]

By the way, I decided on the Ultima SR60. I bought the older formula for a steal at defender ($135 a gallon) during their big sale. Instead of Irgarol, they have some other additive as a biocide because it's from when Irgarol was off the market for a few years. Most bottom paints don't have a slime biocide anyway, so I figure it's whatever. Pretty pumped on the deal.

The other one I was considering is Micron Extra. Also seems pretty legit.

 

[O C Diver]

Hmmm! I just inquired at the border and CBSA informs me that I am unable to bring Pettit Trinidad SR across the border. I haven’t purchased the paint yet. I’m not giving up just yet, but anyone have any thoughts? I’m looking for a good quality non ablative paint.

Jim

Any idea why it's prohibited? BTW, put it on my boat last fall and couldn't be happier! My bottom scrubber loves it.

Maybe you should relable the cans.

Ted

 

[JDCAVE]

Ted: I believe the % Cuprous Oxide exceeds Cdn regulation which, according to the local service yard manager, is 45%. Trinidad Pettit SR is 65%. He said I shouldn’t have asked! Lol. He also said I could go to Michaels Crafts and buy a bag of Cuprous Oxide and add it to the paint of my choice. Apparently it’s cheap. He said he’s done that.

 

[Insequent]

I have had the Jotun Seavictor 50 on for a year now. Excellent results, I'll easily get another year and the waterline area is free of growth. So, far superior to Micron Extra. Of course I've been in tropical or sub-tropical waters, and performance may vary for cold waters. Although usually cold water is easier on the AF.

Jotun does have a global spread apparently.
https://www.jotun.com/

The TDS is not that informative, but I found another source that indicates Seavictor 50 has 39.59% cuprous oxide.

https://www.jotun.com/Datasheets/Download?url=/TDS/TDS__11700__Antifouling Seavictor 50__Euk__GB.pdf

JOTUN MARINE COATINGS 60A5000 SEAVICTOR 50 ANTIFOULING RED -- Product Profile

 

[Aquabelle]

I have had the Jotun Seavictor 50 on for a year now. Excellent results, I'll easily get another year and the waterline area is free of growth. So, far superior to Micron Extra. Of course I've been in tropical or sub-tropical waters, and performance may vary for cold waters. Although usually cold water is easier on the AF.

Jotun does have a global spread apparently.
https://www.jotun.com/

The TDS is not that informative, but I found another source that indicates Seavictor 50 has 39.59% cuprous oxide.

https://www.jotun.com/Datasheets/Download?url=/TDS/TDS__11700__Antifouling Seavictor 50__Euk__GB.pdf

JOTUN MARINE COATINGS 60A5000 SEAVICTOR 50 ANTIFOULING RED -- Product Profile

Brian...what were you using before SeaVictor...And what colour is it?

 

[O C Diver]

Ted: I believe the % Cuprous Oxide exceeds Cdn regulation which, according to the local service yard manager, is 45%. Trinidad Pettit SR is 65%. He said I shouldn’t have asked! Lol. He also said I could go to Michaels Crafts and buy a bag of Cuprous Oxide and add it to the paint of my choice. Apparently it’s cheap. He said he’s done that.

So let me get this straight, you can buy a 45% Cuprous Oxide ablative paint that slowly desolves into the water as you use the boat, but you can't use a higher content that stays on the hull (hard paint). Don't think I would be adding Cuprous Oxide to another paint. Obviously you loose any warranty for adhesion and effectiveness from the manufacturer. Further, for what the whole cost of a bottom paint job is, I want a proven product, not something that might work.

Ted