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Old 10-23-2020, 07:59 PM   #41
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Greenline those are nice boats. My understanding is that the issue is caused by to much solvent when the hull is built. Another issue is the final gelcoat layer with a bit more solvent so they can get a better finish. Sure it will look nice but likely not for long. But you have ALREADY GROUND IT OFF ONCE AND IT REOCCURED....
If you have had her dry docked for a year in a warm environment it should be ready.

Best wishes
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Old 10-23-2020, 08:05 PM   #42
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As I have posted before, stick with the advicecfrom white papers and yards with experience....

Most individual experiences are just that....
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Old 10-24-2020, 06:39 AM   #43
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The fact that the boat has been in indoor dry storage for a year is a plus when considering a project like this. A lot of drying has already occurred.

I'd get the bottom paint removed. I don't see the need to remove the gel down to the laminate. Just grind out the blisters and fill with epoxy putty. It is more work to remove the gel and probably not necessary. Once you get the bottom smooth, apply multiple layers of an epoxy barrier coat (we use interprotect 2000), then bottom paint.

The big advantage here is that the hull has been drying for a year.

If you go look at the boat now, you may find that the blisters have reduced in size due to drying.

While the old gel may still be hygroscopic, it won't really matter if it is sealed with epoxy.
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Old 10-25-2020, 05:54 PM   #44
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There is no barrier coat where 2 coats will do. Read the directions on the can. Each product has a different number of coats needed.
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Old 10-25-2020, 06:04 PM   #45
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There is no barrier coat where 2 coats will do. Read the directions on the can. Each product has a different number of coats needed.
I agree. Putting the Interprotect on is the easy part of the job and relatively cheap too. Just make sure you put at least the minimum number of coats on and do it according to the time schedule so you are adding coats before the previous coat has dried completely so you get a chemical bond between the coats. Usually they want it thumb print dry, dry enough so paint doesn’t come off on your finger but still wet enough to leave a thumb print in the paint.
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Old 11-16-2020, 08:18 AM   #46
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Thanks go to everyone who took the time to contribute thoughts, experiences and recommendations!

My next steps are:
1) Still more research
2) Possibly a bottom-focused survey
3) Perhaps an additional offer or two to compare with the offer I have from the factory.
4) Have the work performed (Corona permitting)
5) Continue to enjoy the boat (Corona permitting)

I will eventually come back here to let everyone know the rest of the story...
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Old 11-16-2020, 01:12 PM   #47
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I think it is essential that the gel coat be peeled. In my case there were many large voids that could not be seen or adressed without removal of the gel. It is not much more work, if any, than removing just the paint. It comes out failrly smooth so little sanding is needed. Again no need to reapply the gel coat.
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Old 05-13-2021, 03:01 PM   #48
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Update:

After much research, discussion with the factory and with a nearby Greenline dealer, I have decided to take my boat to the dealer to have this situation addressed during the coming winter.
The dealer is very knowledgeable about this situation (which seems to affect only some of the very early Greenlines) and has had experience applying this solution to multiple Greenline hulls. I am advised that the defect is in the gelcoat itself and that in all previous cases, the affected hulls had very low humidity levels underneath. I am inclined to believe this, since popping the small blisters produces only clear fluid. No black ooze or the like which would suggest serious hydrolysis.

It has been a difficult and agonizing decision, but I have decided to go with what the Greenline dealer recommends will work, based on their experience. It does not involve a full gelcoat peel (which seems to be the consensus approach recommended by the august posters in this forum) but rather sandblasting the gelcoat, while not removing it entirely.
Then:
  • 3 coats of MAP yachting IM409 EpoxyGuard
  • 1 full treatment with Awlflair (or similar)
  • 2 Coats of Inernational Interprotect High Performance Epoxy Primer (I’m thinking of requesting the color red)
  • 2 Coats of Hempel Hard Racing Antifouling (extra slippery for fast boats…and I guess for slow electric boats). The antifouling color will be grey
  • 5 years warranty

If I get 5 years down the road and learn that it really should have been a peel job, etc., etc. I will cross that bridge when I get to it. Having a solution NOW that is likely to be good for a least 5 years is more important to me than having a solution that might last a lifetime, but under current conditions is not practically obtainable for me (Pandemic, me not being local to where the work is being done, further extended interruption of a long-planned Mediterranean journey, language issues, etc.). And, while the work I’m about to authorize is not cheap, it will not be a financial disaster for me if I someday find it needs to be done all over again with a full peel.

I will try to keep this thread updated with my experience on this over the coming years, in case it can be of any benefit to other early Greenline owners.
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Old 05-17-2021, 12:29 PM   #49
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This an interesting recipe and I'll be interested to hear how it performs over time. I have not heard of the IM 409. One of the generally accepted recipes at the yards here in San Diego for blister prevention is Interprotect 2000 after repair/fairing, the Interprotect asks for six coats, followed by your choice of primer and antifoul.
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Old 05-17-2021, 12:55 PM   #50
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This an interesting recipe and I'll be interested to hear how it performs over time. I have not heard of the IM 409. One of the generally accepted recipes at the yards here in San Diego for blister prevention is Interprotect 2000 after repair/fairing, the Interprotect asks for six coats, followed by your choice of primer and antifoul.

IP 2000 good stuff I have used it on a fresh from the factory Searay just for extra protection and have never had issues. A couple of others I made repairs then IP 2000 without further issues. Good stuff
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:37 PM   #51
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I have use the Interprotect system, 6 coats, on multiple boats and have never had any blisters afterwards. Good luck.
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Old 05-18-2021, 01:55 AM   #52
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If all the areas going to blister have and the blast media takes the tops off and opens them up, that might work. But have they? If the blasting removes the outer gelcoat, and if the blistering is not deeper, that might work. But...
I think this work is not under warranty, you are paying. Are they warranting the repair?
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Old 05-18-2021, 02:35 AM   #53
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This an interesting recipe and I'll be interested to hear how it performs over time. I have not heard of the IM 409. One of the generally accepted recipes at the yards here in San Diego for blister prevention is Interprotect 2000 after repair/fairing, the Interprotect asks for six coats, followed by your choice of primer and antifoul.

IM409 is a product by Map Yachting. A French company that specializes in marine and aeronautic finishes.


https://www.map-yachting.com/home/
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Old 05-18-2021, 02:35 AM   #54
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Are they warranting the repair?

5 years.
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