Anchor chain piling up blocking winch

[Porchhound]

So what is the solution for this problem? After about 75ft of chain is brought up the winch stalls out and i have to go below to scatter it around, let a little out, then start the winch again. I have what I believe to be(as measured) 3/8in chain...about 200ft total.

Thanks in advance

 

[mvweebles]

While I've never tried it, have read many sources that suggest some sort of bar to split the anchor locker into starboard/port compartments. Thinking is that once the chain piles on one side, it switches to the other side. Probably couldn't hurt.

Good luck.

Peter

 

[BruceK]

A traffic "witches" hat(lawfully acquired) strategically placed in the anchor locker is claimed to distribute the fall thereby preventing pyramiding.

 

[O C Diver]

It would probably be helpful for the discussion to measure the distance from the floor of the chain locker to the ceiling where the winch is mounted. The chain needs enough drop to fall down the sides of the pyramid. Btw, is there a tube, the chain runs through, that sticks down below the ceiling of the chain locker?

Ted

 

[GoneFarrell]

Btw, is there a tube, the chain runs through, that sticks down below the ceiling of the chain locker? Ted

^^This.
I have such a tube. Cut it back. I now have about a foot clear from top of chain pile to bottom of tube, no more pile problem.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

I originally had +350 feet of chain on my similarly sized boat. I did an assessment of when and where I would likely need that amount of chain, i.e., instances where there was no other option but anchor in 75' depth in a 4 knot running tide, etc. Not likely. Weigh that against instances where I would raise anchor and have to run down twice to redistribute the chain. About every day when cruising.

I changed to about 100' of chain and 200 feet of 8 plait line. The line flakes down into the locker and the chain flattens it out further. No more running to the locker or (even worse) having the windlass jam because the chain isn't falling properly. The 100' feet of chain is enough to drag around on the bottom with the line still in the water column. For a lunch hook, I usually just put out chain. For overnight, I usually put out all the chain so that the line is secured to the samson post. Some say this gives some cushion, although I never had an issue with chain noise or jerking/snubbing.

What I have had an issue with is needing to lengthen scope because of increasing wind (dark and rainy night, of course). Getting the chain out of a chain stopper when it has a full strain on it wasn't easy. In fact, it was hardly possible. Untying 8 plait from the samson post is simple. The argument is that if I had all chain I could put out less scope in a hurricane. Got it. That also figured into my assessment.

 

[Xlantic]

I drilled a 1" hole in the panel separating the chain locker from the forward cabin, right below the tube in which the chain descends.

When the pyramid forms and the chain stops descending I push a broom stick through the drilled hole and push the pyramid so it topples over.

Not perfect but better than before where I had to raise the bunk's mattress to get access to the chain locker.

 

[OldDan1943]

my experience: close to 325 chain. I put all the chain on the seawall (bow first) paint the chain, different colors, wench it all pack in, pretty castle. Good day, went inside, ..... heard the castle fall over, checked the chain looked like it will come right out.
Castle aways fall over in rough weather.

 

[koliver]

New galvanized chain or SS chain. Both are smooth enough they won't pile up as quickly as old, rusty chain.

My old, rusty galvanized chain is about 25 years since renewal, so is getting close to replacement. Until then, every 50' or so, I stop hauling, go below, knock the castle over and go back up to haul some more.

 

[Comodave]

New galvanized chain or SS chain. Both are smooth enough they won't pile up as quickly as old, rusty chain.

My old, rusty galvanized chain is about 25 years since renewal, so is getting close to replacement. Until then, every 50' or so, I stop hauling, go below, knock the castle over and go back up to haul some more.

That has to be a pain…

 

[Porchhound]

Galvanized chain is in good shape...no rust. I think the locker is not designed well because the chain builds straight up in a pile.

 

[Mac2]

Is it a single, or double anchor locker?

 

[Comodave]

Galvanized chain is in good shape...no rust. I think the locker is not designed well because the chain builds straight up in a pile.

Rope lockers need to be deep, not necessary wide. But a lot of boat builders build them wide and shallow.

 

[BruceK]

The rode locker on my Masters 34 was wide and deep enough to stand in. I did,while water blasting years of accumulated mud, finding a 2' high diamond pattern mat at the bottom under the mud. No rode fouling on that boat.

 

[dwiggl]

We added some thin Teflon sheeting to the locker wall, so the chain slid down easier (in theory). Also removed the chain and pressure washed it. It is old galvanized and has some scale on it. I don't know which one was the solution but works so far.

 

[jgwinks]

The chain locker on my boat was designed for all rope and was only about a foot and a half deep. No way it was going to work with chain. So I just cut the bottom out of the locker. Now it's like 5 feet deep and no problems with chain stacking.

 

[seighlor]

I did the same as jgwinks... cut the bottom out of the chain locker. The chain now drops several feet into a compartment beneath the v-berth. Works great.

 

[fgarriso]

We have 400' of 1/2" chain. I put a HD swivel 1/2 way on the chain (200') and at the end with the anchor connection. No more problems now.

 

[MVDarlin]

I have 300' of anchor chain. I tried using a traffic cone in the chain locker but it soon coliapsed from the weight. I now put someone in the fwd berth to monitor the chain locker when lifting the anchor. I have them wear gloves and distribute the chain as it winds in. If I am solo I have to go below and topple the stack every 50'. Otherwise the chain will form a stack that topples over while underway. Big mess requiring chain to be pulled unto the cabin to sort.

 

[skipgundlach]

Our locker is split; dual anchors, one windlass direct fall, and the other through a hawse hole.

The other hawse hole is over (at the toe rail) the direct fall. I'd usually get a stackup if I didn't occasionally stick my arm down the hole and knock over the stack.

Our new owner went up a size (from 5/16 to 3/8. both G43), and took out the divider. He got 300' and sez it lays just fine. But he's never actually had it out, anchored, and then retrieved. I hope he's right...

 

[twistedtree]

The installation manual for my Maxwell windlass calls for a minimum distance from the spurling tube to the top of the chain pile. In other words, there is a minimum length of free chain drop required for proper piling. I doubt this is the only factor, but it’s worth considering. One post noted increasing that distance and a subsequent improvement.

 

[DDW]

The problem is the pile tips over, then you have a tangle. Even if the drop is long from the pipe, the tip over will still tangle it. The solution is to have a locker that is deep and narrow. On my sailboat, we made a fiberglass tube 12" diameter and about 4' tall for the chain to pile into. It never tangles. You can probably go up to about 24" diameter and still not have it tip. I occasionally have this problem on my trawler (AT34) which has a wide and not particularly deep locker, next season I'm thinking of mounting a tube it there to fix it.

 

[ronobrien]

It would probably be helpful for the discussion to measure the distance from the floor of the chain locker to the ceiling where the winch is mounted. The chain needs enough drop to fall down the sides of the pyramid. Btw, is there a tube, the chain runs through, that sticks down below the ceiling of the chain locker?

Ted

I have no first hand knowledge of them but I have seen pictures of a cone in the chain locker directly under the winch so the chain lands on the peak of the cone and scatters around it. It seems like it would be effective. I am guessing that height width ratios would have some importance.

 

[ancora]

We had the same problem with 240 feet of 3/8" chain. Replaced it with 5/16" G2 chain, yes it fit the gypsy, problem solved.