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Old 11-11-2015, 12:06 PM   #41
City: Seattle
Vessel Name: Destiny
Vessel Model: Puget Trawler Euro
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 10
Originally Posted by Tangler View Post
I have a Europa with the same problems you describe...dont trust the survey results as the hammer and moisture meter only point out the worst spots. see my thread "dissasembly of flying bridge-experience anyone?" describing the whole thing..I note the deck has been coated on your boat...sometimes they coat the deck trying to avoid repairing the damage properly. that never works..wood rot grows even when dry..unless fixed it will proceed to eat your boat. you would have to start at the bridge and work your way back. I found all round the hatch, accross the stern and all four corners were bad but repairable. It will be better than new when I am done. your choice is - do you want to spend time fixing...or cruising? I think of it in terms of how much fuel that money would have bought...

We have a Puget Trawler 1977 Europa that had the same issues and our surveyor was not as thorough as yours! So we had the upper deck resurfaced and $13,000 later have a nice upper deck. Being new to trawlers, this was an expensive mistake on our part. Apparently the Taiwan trawlers used cheap plywood that tends to delaminate over time. Especially when exposed to water. It is the weakness of these boats. Ive been told by numerous folks, keep it under cover or else it will deteriorate quickly. So we spend extra for covered moorage. That has been the best money spent for us, keeps the boat dry and protected, and nice when we are ready to go cruising.
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:03 PM   #42
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City: San Francisco
Vessel Name: Shellbourne
Vessel Model: 1978 Mainship 34 Perkins T6.354
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 171
I have a 1978 Mainship, it has a similar flybridge that extends to form a roof over the cockpit. I suspected there was moisture, even though there are no soft spots. Realistically, any boat that old with plywood core fiberglass is going to have some intrusion. So one day last year I drilled a hole up into the ceiling but not all the way through. As I expected there was some dampness. I believe I caught it in time, before rotting set in to cause any soft spots. So I decided to ventilate the core and drilled a few holes, 1 inch diameter into the ceiling, in various places. Some were bone dry, some showed moisture. A year later I occasionally check the holes for moisture in the core and there is none.

I don't believe wood should be fully encased, and I recall from Chapman's that it's bad to paint all sides of wood since it needs some places to allow the moisture to escape. I pushed little aluminum louvered vent caps into holes and they look fine. I think it should be standard practice to provide ventilation to wooden cores.

It's simply impossible to keep all moisture out of the plywood for decades, especially with surfaces that expand in the sun or flex under stress. I suppose it's possible if the lamination is perfect and there are no screws or fasteners but that's not feasible either.

I hope my next boat has full synthetic cores.
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Old 11-19-2015, 06:30 AM   #43
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
"I suppose it's possible if the lamination is perfect and there are no screws or fasteners but that's not feasible either."

The problem is most folks do NOT want to believe that sealants do not last forever , and rebedding every item at least every decade is required ..

So the water gets in and the house grade plywood rots.
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:41 AM   #44
City: gulf coast
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,440
the intrusion point which is a loose railing

For future reference any boat that has a loose railing has not been well maintained IMO. This is a required upkeep item on boats and a minor job that if not addressed causes the big problems you found
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:10 PM   #45
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City: Abbotsford
Vessel Name: Between boats
Vessel Model: 38' C & L Puget Trawler
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 204
well its been a while since I reviewed my posts...upper deck is finished...removed all the teak deck and sealed the main culprit...the flying bridge itself ! the deck...the fb was originally a separate piece and assembled in USA after being shipped from Taiwan. It was sealed very badly and probably leaked from the start . As mentioned I torn out several sections of the upper wasn't that difficult but a lot of time...I now have a new fiberglass deck and have installed pontoon boat seating and a hardtop...working on a 3/4 full canvas enclosure now. ...whew ! retirement is busy!!
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Old 02-17-2016, 05:38 PM   #46
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City: Philadelphia, PA
Vessel Name: Revel
Vessel Model: 1984 Fu Hwa 39
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,024
Our seller is fixing most of the surveyors 'critical' items and the blistered bottom. We offered several options, inherent in which was our walking away, and including a reduced price. Have your seller fix that deck or be prepared to walk away.

My guess, from your descriptions, is that the core is wet as far out as the yellow line and that it is getting on towards rotten all around the hatch, probably quite rotten at the leak and where the edge is cracked. Our surveyor said that cracks in surfaces which were covering the joint between two different layups of 'glass were failures of the joint or the filler and gelcoat used to make it pretty - not so important where there's no wood. Cracks around your hatch, where the deck 'glass meets the ceiling below's 'glass seem problematical to me because of the core.
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