Your solutions to sea water odors in toilet intake?

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Today I am dealing with a dead shower sump rule bilge pump. For the last 3+ weeks I have been using the bilge pumps to evacuate the shower water for 2 and it stinks. I pitched 1 ind the sump and 2 in the bilge tabs used in hot tubs and BOOM...stink gone. Any thoughts out there of un intended consequences?
 
If they are chlorine tabs, can cause some problems with rubber hoses and other stuff that doesn't like chlorine.
 
George while I agree and think Chlorine has no place in a properly working holding tank it or something similar is used in the Raritan PuraSan Type I treatment system.
Technically it's the last device before the waste is treated and then discharged.
What about Bromine instead of Chlorine? Food for thought...
Bill
 
Our local pool guy bud suggested bromine would be better than chlorine, but he also hesitated to recommend using even that. (He's not a boat guy.)

I found some store-brand toilet bowl cleaners that are marked chlorine-free and phosphate free (but do contain "borax, anionic and nonionic surfactants") and I'm trying one of those in one of our AC condensate pans.

That pan also happens to be plumbed to the shower sump... so my intent is to see if it will perhaps freshen the condensation and then trickle down to keep the show sump a bit cleaner (extend time between cleanings).

Haven't had it in there long enough to draw any conclusions, yet, but the water in the sump is blue now.

-Chris
 
Our local pool guy bud suggested bromine would be better than chlorine, but he also hesitated to recommend using even that. (He's not a boat guy.)

I found some store-brand toilet bowl cleaners that are marked chlorine-free and phosphate free (but do contain "borax, anionic and nonionic surfactants") and I'm trying one of those in one of our AC condensate pans.

That pan also happens to be plumbed to the shower sump... so my intent is to see if it will perhaps freshen the condensation and then trickle down to keep the show sump a bit cleaner (extend time between cleanings).

Haven't had it in there long enough to draw any conclusions, yet, but the water in the sump is blue now.

-Chris
Chris have you thought about installing the Mermaid AC Venturi devices? These worked great for me in my Mainship for well over 6 seasons.
Bill
 
Yep, Bill, I have... but it hasn't bubbled to the top of my wallet yet. And probably if I don't have to, I won't.

Apologies for drift, Peggie,; got distracted by the shower sump thing :)

-Chris
 
George while I agree and think Chlorine has no place in a properly working holding tank it or something similar is used in the Raritan PuraSan Type I treatment system.
Technically it's the last device before the waste is treated and then discharged.
What about Bromine instead of Chlorine? Food for thought...
Bill

I was responding to Mule using it in a sump.

Personally we never found the need to treat our waste tank with anything but a supply of fresh air.
 
Thanks George I misunderstood the post my apologies.
Bill
 
Ok, bad splice @ float switch, now 1 bad bilge pump an out of 2 neither operates off a float switch even though power 24-7....more work to come.....BTW....Needed engine room dwarf. Competitive pay, quarters in engine room provided, time off under weigh...summer quarters provided under fly bridge shield if requested.
 
I add a splash of vinegar in the bowl with the seawater after the flush n fill
 
Have any of you installed a separate water tank to supply fresh water to flush a sea water toilet? Do you add any "deodorizing" or other products to the tank...if so, what? Can you provide a photograph of the installation that includes the plumbing?

Have any of you cobbled up a "one off" reservoir (NOT the Raritan Crown Head reservoir or Flush Water Kit) installed in the flush water supply line on a sea water toilet that you fill with some type of deodorizing or mineral dissolving product ? If so, can you provide a list of the materials you used, your "instructions" for use, and the chemical used...and a photograph?

If you've installed either, or can send me to someone who has, I will be very grateful!

I have a very specific need for examples of ONLY these two types of installations...so please do NOT try to educate me about toilets designed to use pressurized fresh water, the dangers of connecting sea water toilets to fresh water plumbing (or how it can allegedly sometimes be done safely), chemical recommendations, or try to make a case for composters....nor ANY opinions.

Thanks!
Hi Peggy,
I don't think what I have would be what you want but I have a separate fresh water tank that supplies a Thetford fresh water toilet which I bought on your recommendation and it's great. Do you need this in photos?

Either way, I do have a question. What can I add to my toilet fresh water supply tank to give a pleasant odor and color to the water going into the toilet? My supply tank is about 30 gallons.

I hope you don't REALLY retire as has been discussed on the forums. You have been a wonderful source of information for the boating community.

Best regards
Ray
 
I use sea water for flushing toilets and have a clean smell when flushed. I added small strainers just after the thru hull. About twice a month I put 3 tablets of Bromine in the strainer. Been operating this way for several years now.
 
I use sea water for flushing toilets and have a clean smell when flushed. I added small strainers just after the thru hull. About twice a month I put 3 tablets of Bromine in the strainer. Been operating this way for several years now.

It's a fresh water system, with a dedicated fresh water tank to supply the toilet. I'm looking for a safe product I can put in the fresh water supply tank much like you put in your home toilet tank at home.
 
It's a fresh water system, with a dedicated fresh water tank to supply the toilet. I'm looking for a safe product I can put in the fresh water supply tank much like you put in your home toilet tank at home.

The short answer to your question is, there is no product you can add to the tank that will provide perfumed colored water to the toilet. And don't even think of hanging anything the bowl either. If your flush water gets funky, it means it's sitting in the tank too long, not getting changed often enough. 30 gallons is a LOT of flush water...10-12 gallons is enough to keep the water moving through the system.

Toilets designed by the mfr to use pressurized flush water can be safely connected to the boat's potable water system, so it's not necessary to install a separate flush water tank. You'd have also needed a water pump for it 'cuz they only use pressurized flush water. So installing a separate flush water system for a toilet DESIGNED to use fresh water was a whole lot of unnecessary extra expense.

If it's actually a sea water toilet (unlikely if I recommended it), if your flush water tank is connected in any way to the main water system--if you didn't install it as a completely separate system including a separate fill--your potable water is still exposed to contamination from the toilet.

So if you're trying to cure funky flush water, the RIGHT solution would be to remove the flush water tank and install the toilet as it was designed to be installed....or a much smaller tank, if the toilet is actually a sea water tank.

Btw, NEVER use household chemical bowl products in a marine system...they're highly destructive to rubber and also hoses, many are also corrosive. Also never use any cleaning products that contain bleach or chlorine (I'm sure you already knew that), pine oil cleaners, or Lysol etc unless you want to change hoses and rebuild the toilet every couple of years. Use them with care, even at home, because most contain chemicals that can be lethal when combined with other products..the following can be a real eye opener:

Clean House Clean Planet - Karen Logan - Google Books
 
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