Water tank treatment

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The captain that looks after my boat, a GB49, in the winter made a big mistake. He poured diesel stabilization in one of my water tanks. The only solution that I have found is to flush with 1 ounce of bleach per 20 gallons of water. The tanks are baffled, so he has used 1 gallon of bleach per filled tank of water. He claims to have to flushed each tank 3 times. I am in Texas and the boat lives in Anacortes. Does anyone know of a better solution?
 
You didn't mention the exact product. I would look up the material safety data sheet on the product and see if there are any clean up measures included. You could also contact the manufacturer of the product and ask the question.

Aside from that I would purchase more of the additive and make some tests on the bench to see what actually works to cut/clean/dissolve the stuff.

I know a guy at the marina that winterizes his fresh water system with the cheapest vodka he can find as he does not like adding the pink stuff to the system. Maybe an alcohol could be the answer? The benefit is you are not adding any products that will make you sick if you do not get everything out 100 percent.
 
Good advice about contacting the product manufacturer (the diesel stabilizer). I would be worried about residue possibly remaining in the tank and maybe causing some "illness" if the water is consumed???
I would want to ensure it is "done right", and the Captain should as well!
 
Absolutely contact the manufacturer and see what they say about cleanup.
 
The tank has to be cleaned. Any debris or algae will hold the chemical taste with many flushings. There may be a neutralizer if you contact the treatment maker. Otherwise dish soap or something that will breakdown the oil in the chemistry. If the tank has an access port, wipe down the insides. If it was straight diesel, you'd probably never get the taste right. Large amounts of baking soda helps.
In the military, people tried to use drums that had held diesel for fresh water. They were cleaned and retried many times. Eventually steam cleaned. The diesel taste never went away.
 
Whatever you do, after you're done, fill the tank, and then draw a water sample directly from the tank and have it analyzed.

BTW, how does he plan to empty the tank during the remediation process, through the rest of your boat plumbing? :banghead:

Ted
 
Whatever you do, after you're done, fill the tank, and then draw a water sample directly from the tank and have it analyzed.

BTW, how does he plan to empty the tank during the remediation process, through the rest of your boat plumbing? :banghead:

Ted

Sure, that way it all gets contaminated. Besides it is easier, right?
 
OOOOOOPS!!!!
I had a similar problem a few years ago. ISOLATE THE TANK NOW so the stuff does not get drawn into the rest of the system and contaminate all of that.

Pump out most of the contaminated water. You will have to figure out where to dispose of it. Ask around.
Maybe one of the fuel polishing businesses in the area can help. Often the main contaminant in fuel is water so they will have places to dispose of the contaminated, in your case water.

Although I wrote this for cleaning a dirty tank it should work also for an additive contaminated tank.



You will of course need to consider any pollution regs.




Post below.
 

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Looking at an SDS for StaBil shows some of the components:

ethylbenzene, xylene, napthalene, etc.

I'd suggest 3 (or more) drains/fills with fresh water. Try to get every last drop out on the drains. This triple rinse theoretically gives you a 99.99% dilution. (google "triple rinse").

At dilute levels, bacteria can consume those organics, so follow with a chlorination, then another flush.

SDS for StaBil:

https://www.sta-bil.com.au/media/documents/sds/44/sds-sta-bil-diesel-30-nov-17.pdf
 
We put in a whole boat filter from 3M just after the pressure water pump. Believe they’re available with a two filter set up that includes a carbon filter for relatively short money. After you clean out your tank you may want to do that. Would think that should help get out any residual taste and having that filtering makes the potable water more pleasant anyway so a good addition. Also have a carbon and 5u on the line for back flushing the watermaker. Then no chlorine risk to the membrane and keeps the system sweet. On the feed have a filter to remove petrochemicals as well as a 5u. All these filters are generic so short money.
 
Keel haul the Captain. We totally gravity drain our water tanks to the bilge annually. Is it too late to do that or has the "Capt" pumped through the boat systems already?
 
Thanks for all the good advise. The product is Stanadyne diesel additive. I sent a request to the company for advise on how to neutralize the chemical but have not heard back yet.
Dawn dish soap was added to the tank first to try and cut the oil and a little of the soapy water was run thru the kitchen faucet then drained thru the bilge as well as three treatments of bleach water drained thru the bilge.
Re: using backing soda . How many lbs should I use for a 263 gallon tank.
I will definitely send samples to a lab for analysis.

Thanks to all.
 
Baking soda has a slight ability to remove greasy/organics from the walls of the tank, but otherwise won't really do anything. I'd feed it at 1 tsp per 10 gal of water.

A stronger cleaner would be TSP (tri sodium phosphate). That's available at Home Depot typically in the paint section. It's a stronger degreaser and a fairly strong cleaner, but it is safe for consumption at low levels. It's in cake mixes and many other foods as a thickener. Like so many things, it's an irritant at high levels, but at low levels, it's not. Some might scare you into telling you it's paint thinner, etc., but it's simply a form of phosphate and sodium. But, do your own reading and avoid the junk science websites if you can. I'd use that at 1 tsp per 20 gal, let it sit and slosh around if you can, then rinse 3 times. It'll raise the pH of the water which is how you clean organics and oils from things.
 

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