Water in the bilge

[Sailor of Fortune]

Bruce K may be on track. If you can't find a source from below, windows,hatches decks etc need to be monitored.

 

[KneeDeep]

A/C condensate drain? When we 1st purchased our boat I looked everywhere for a freshwater leak in the bilge, then realized it was designed that way

 

[Lou_tribal]

Last year I faced something like that, got some water in the bilge, searching everywhere, nothing dramatic but just wanted to find out... After checking all water intake, fresh water lines, heat exchangers etc I was turning crazy. Finally it was the water heater tank, not a big leak but something like a drop every 3 to 5 second,but at the end of the day... And very diificult to find as the drop was under the tank. One more thing to fix before cruising again this year!

 

[Peter B]

I have a weird issue a bit like the Op, but mine is maybe even stranger. Because nothing is leaking in the ER, yet water is finding its way into the part of the bilge under the engine. Even if I had a leak there somewhere, it should not get into that sub-engine bilge, should it, because it is supposed to not communicate with any other part. It appears not to, because this water gets a bit oil-stanined, but it does not find its way into the main bilge at all. Rain water should not reach it there either. It is not from the engine or cooling system. The tiny amount that comes into the aft bilge from the stuffing box flows under this engine bilge via a conduit built into the bottom, to the front one and is pumped out normally by the auto bilge pump. I have to pump this engine bilge out periodically because it does not link to the main bilge, and sure enough, over time, more water gets in there. I have not taste tested it, but I think I'll test it with the multimeter resistance trick, as some one else suggested, and also my salt water pool test kit, as a double check.
Any ideas what it might be though..?

 

[sunchaser]

The most annoying to encounter and potentially difficult leaks to locate and fix are from tanks. We constantly hear about fuel leaks, it happens with water tanks too.

 

[rwidman]

I have done the taste test but that was before I realized that the water could contain antifreeze or battery acid as someone mentioned. Of course the time I did it, it was over six inches deep and I was concerned that my boat might be sinking (A water line fell off my potable water system so it wasn't).


There are a lot of possible sources for water in the bilge so nobody on a web forum can tell you where it's coming from, they can only list possibilities. Someone has to actually be on the boat and look and feel for the water.


As I posted above, a gallon a day is a serious leak. If you can't find it, you should consider hauling the boat before it sinks.

 

[meridian]

Do you have a false bilge? My friend had a thin Fiberglas covering over the real bilge that seeped water. The shaft tube leaked water into the real bilge.

 

[psneeld]

My keel is hollow and had at least 300 gallons of water in it when I redid the bottom.

It to had this thin layer of glass that formed a sump for the bilge pump, but the PO had screws going down into the hollow keel and it filled with water from these holes and possibly from leaks in the shaft log.

A gallon to four or five a day is not unheard of on many commercial boats I have run. While received guys get a bit nervous and are determined to find the cause (a good thing) ....it is no reason to panic either if your batteries can stay charges and even the tiniest bilge pump works.

 

[koliver]

I have a weird issue a bit like the Op, but mine is maybe even stranger. Because nothing is leaking in the ER, yet water is finding its way into the part of the bilge under the engine. Even if I had a leak there somewhere, it should not get into that sub-engine bilge, should it, because it is supposed to not communicate with any other part. It appears not to, because this water gets a bit oil-stanined, but it does not find its way into the main bilge at all. Rain water should not reach it there either. It is not from the engine or cooling system. The tiny amount that comes into the aft bilge from the stuffing box flows under this engine bilge via a conduit built into the bottom, to the front one and is pumped out normally by the auto bilge pump. I have to pump this engine bilge out periodically because it does not link to the main bilge, and sure enough, over time, more water gets in there. I have not taste tested it, but I think I'll test it with the multimeter resistance trick, as some one else suggested, and also my salt water pool test kit, as a double check.
Any ideas what it might be though..?

I didn't know that I had a coolant leak, it was that small, until a mechanic was aboard for an unrelated matter and he pointed out some staining on cooling pipes on the top of my engine. Once those were refastened, the small accumulation of water in the pan beneath the engine went away.

 

[FlyWright]

Peter, is this area where your shaft log is located? Do you have dripless?

 

[BruceK]

On the coolant source track.
Do you have a coolant recovery bottle, or does the overflow go to the bilge?
If the latter, has something changed or is this normal? If a new issue, is the engine running hotter causing more overflow?
Are you topping up the coolant?
What is the condition of the seal on the expansion tank cap? They age, and leak.
One thing about Lehman expansion tanks, they have a metal tube inside which conducts excess coolant to the overflow tube. It can get blocked solid, so the excess coolant looks for another escape, and/or the cooling system gets extra pressurized.
Have you checked all the hoses, especially with engine running?
Good luck with it Peter.

 

[HenryD]

How long has the boat been in the water? Recent work done on the boat? New hoses?
With a new shaft seal, new stuffing box and gland seal...it makes me wonder if everything is settled in? Stuffing boxes usually have a trickle of a leak.

 

[Peter B]

I didn't know that I had a coolant leak, it was that small, until a mechanic was aboard for an unrelated matter and he pointed out some staining on cooling pipes on the top of my engine. Once those were refastened, the small accumulation of water in the pan beneath the engine went away.

Peter, is this area where your shaft log is located? Do you have dripless?

It's not coolant, because the level in the header tank stays constant, and it's not raw water because it even forms when sitting not used, and there are no drips from anywhere in the raw water system connections.

Al, it is way forward of the stuffing box, which drips slowly as required, and that drains through under this engine bilge to the front main bilge, and gets cleared by the auto bilge pump. Theoretically this under-engine bilge has no connection whatsoever with any other source of water entry. it is there solely to isolate engine oil drips etc. Ie contaminated bilge water. It beats me anyway.

 

[Lou_tribal]

If you keep your fresh water pump switch on, and all faucets closed while not used, if there is any leak on the fresh water line the pump will start at one moment to pressurize the line, does it occur?
1 drop every 5 second somewhere on the line will make liters at the end of the day. I noticed that my leak was on the fresh water because while not using water the pump was going on every 10 minutes or so and for 3 to 5 seconds.

 

[Peter B]

If you keep your fresh water pump switch on, and all faucets closed while not used, if there is any leak on the fresh water line the pump will start at one moment to pressurize the line, does it occur?
1 drop every 5 second somewhere on the line will make liters at the end of the day. I noticed that my leak was on the fresh water because while not using water the pump was going on every 10 minutes or so and for 3 to 5 seconds.

Lou, when we are away from the boat the only thing on is the auto bilge pump, and in any case it still should not matter, as the bilge under the engine is supposed to be isolated from everything else, so nothing but engine stuff should get into it anyway, but it does, and is, even when sitting not used.
My issue is different from the OP's issue, so clearly causing confusion, so I'll just leave it at that, and keep investigating, as it must be getting in there somehow, but how is the question.

 

[Lou_tribal]

Peter what I meant is to find out if it is coming from fresh or not, pressurize the line, stay onboard for a while and listen.
Sorry did not get that your er is isolated from any other water source

 

[Peter B]

Peter what I meant is to find out if it is coming from fresh or not, pressurize the line, stay onboard for a while and listen.
Sorry did not get that your er is isolated from any other water source

Not the ER, but the part of the bilge under the engine is walled off from all the rest of the bilge. I thought this would be standard practice actually to prevent oil spillage or drips. and coolant if it leaked, making its way into the main bilge. Maybe it is not standard practice or maybe many folk have not realised this is the case..?

 

[BruceK]

If the contained area is under the engine,and it`s not coming from the engine, and presumably not from above, and the area is truly separate with no communication inside the boat, then is it coming through the hull? Best check if it is salt.

 

[Peter B]

If the contained area is under the engine,and it`s not coming from the engine, and presumably not from above, and the area is truly separate with no communication inside the boat, then is it coming through the hull? Best check if it is salt.

That's on this weekend's agenda Bruce. Hard to believe I have a slow leak in the thickest part of the hull which is so slow it never overflows the bilge section in question, but if not...what..?

 

[Temptation]

Buy a TDS (total dissolved solids) tester on Amazon (or anywhere else) for < $20. The same kind boaters use on their RO water makers. Saltwater averages 3,500 ppm +/-. I've seen it as high as 6,000 ppm. Bottled & rain water usually < 100. Tap water ~ 400.

 

[FF]

"pump was going on every 10 minutes or so and for 3 to 5 seconds."

You need a much bigger accumulator , 3-5 seconds of run time is not acceptable.

 

[Larry M]

Buy a TDS (total dissolved solids) tester on Amazon (or anywhere else) for < $20. The same kind boaters use on their RO water makers. Saltwater averages 3,500 ppm +/-. I've seen it as high as 6,000 ppm. Bottled & rain water usually < 100. Tap water ~ 400.

Great idea!

 

[Lou_tribal]

"pump was going on every 10 minutes or so and for 3 to 5 seconds."

You need a much bigger accumulator , 3-5 seconds of run time is not acceptable.

In fact I have no accumulator at all

 

[Lepke]

If you're a liveaboard, have the boat closed up for cold weather, the moisture from showers, cooking and breathing has to go somewhere. It will find the coldest place and condense back into water.

 

[Islanddreamer]

A/C condensate drain? When we 1st purchased our boat I looked everywhere for a freshwater leak in the bilge, then realized it was designed that way

Had the same problem. OP is in a warmer climate - may be condensate.

 

[Richard Fairminded]

Thanks everyone for the valuable information. I have discovered that the leak was from the fresh water tank. After draining it, there was no longer any water in the bilge. I am considering removing the original iron or stainless tank. Has anyone removed a tank of this size, if so ....was it difficult? Any suggestions? I currently live in Los Angeles County ...does anyone know where I can purchase a boom for the mass on a CHB 34' trawler? I also need to purchase an emergency steering tiller and a high/low cabin table. By the way, Minnie's in Costa Mesa, California does not have these items.

 

[FlyWright]

For better results, I would suggest starting new threads titled for the objects you're seeking. If your CHB has twins, the emergency tiller is less important.

 

[rwidman]

Thanks everyone for the valuable information. I have discovered that the leak was from the fresh water tank. After draining it, there was no longer any water in the bilge. I am considering removing the original iron or stainless tank. Has anyone removed a tank of this size, if so ....was it difficult? ...........

Your troubleshooting logic is faulty. You could have a leak in fittings or hoses attached to the tank. Eliminate these possibilities before replacing the tank.

As for the difficulty of removing (and presumably replacing) the water tank, it depends. it may not be too difficult, on others, you may have to remove the engine or cut a hole in the boat. If you can't figure this out, it's time to call in a pro.

 

[gaston]

Thanks everyone for the valuable information. I have discovered that the leak was from the fresh water tank. After draining it, there was no longer any water in the bilge. I am considering removing the original iron or stainless tank. Has anyone removed a tank of this size, if so ....was it difficult? Any suggestions? I currently live in Los Angeles County ...does anyone know where I can purchase a boom for the mass on a CHB 34' trawler? I also need to purchase an emergency steering tiller and a high/low cabin table. By the way, Minnie's in Costa Mesa, California does not have these items.

Before you remove your tank add some fluro die to the water fill the tank and see what happens in a few days .