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Old 02-21-2022, 10:38 AM   #21
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I guess we are old fashioned... We mark each day we are on the boat on a calendar. When it has 8 X's on the calendar it's time for a pump out....

Also have 1 of these for a backup-reminder...
https://www.defender.com/product3.js...306&id=1759985
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Old 02-21-2022, 10:57 AM   #22
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I guess we are old fashioned... We mark each day we are on the boat on a calendar. When it has 8 X's on the calendar it's time for a pump out....

Also have 1 of these for a backup-reminder...
https://www.defender.com/product3.js...306&id=1759985
The issue with that type of level monitor is it's exposure to the contents of the holding tank.

The sensor is an on and off switch activated by the sliding float. It gets immersed in waste when the tank gets close to full, which with an adequately sized tank is occassional. After pump out when the sensor is no longer immersed, any crud sticking to the sensor dries. After several immersion and dry cycles, the sliding part of the sensor will stick and unable to indicate a full tank.

I have one on my tank and by spring it is unable to indicate full because of stuck sensor. I fill the tank full of water and a high sudsing soap and let it sit overnite. Next day, I tap the top of the tank with a plastic handle to cause the sliding float to loosen. When the red, tank full, light comes on, stop tapping. I leave the holding tank full of water as long as possible to continue cleaning the sensor.

The other method would be to remove the sensor and clean it. Yuck!
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Old 02-21-2022, 11:09 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Fletcher500 View Post

Regarding the Scad exterior mount system on a FG tank; is everything external and no drilling required? I don't think I could get a drill in there if I wanted to, but should be able to apply the tape and sensors.

The reason I ask is the literature says “1/2 in hole” but I dont see that being needed including on a YT Vid by a do it yourselfer.
The 1/2" hole is located behind the display to run the wires through. No holes are required by the tank. Before applying the foil tape to the outside of the tank be sure to clean the area outside well with alcohol so that the tape stays stuck.
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Old 02-21-2022, 11:12 AM   #24
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The 1/2" hole is located behind the display to run the wires through. No holes are required by the tank. Before applying the foil tape to the outside of the tank be sure to clean the area outside well with alcohol so that the tape stays stuck.
The sensors also stick better if the attachment area on the tank and sensors are heated slightly with a heat gun.
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Old 03-17-2022, 07:02 AM   #25
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Maretron FPM100

We pulled out the float switch type monitor in our current boat. The floats have an issue over time they will get stuck with debris and it's not fun cracking the tank open to clean the sensor.

Replaced with a Maretron FPM100 over a year ago. Could not be happier with the setup. It works off the tank fluid pressure and sits at the bottom of the tank. You do need the Maretron N2k gateway to calibrate the sensor to the tank. Bonus is the calibration can do irregular sized tanks.

Install was super easy as there is an article on Panbo or Seabits for someone who did the same swap as we did between monitors.

The sensor is very accurate and right now looking at my display our tank is at 46% full.

Is it cheap no. Taking out guess work on holding tank fill level and not having clogged sensor. Priceless.
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Old 03-17-2022, 11:09 AM   #26
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Stick to what you have. Here's my recipe.
1. Pull the tank sensor probe fitting out.
2. Scrape and loosen the crud at bottom of the tank as best you can, two paint stir sticks work great taped together.
3. Pump out the tank.
4. The sensors, that slide on the tubes, can come off by taking off their plastic clips on the bottoms. Keep track of which end was up. Clean the tubes and the insides of the sensors with a small tool. The liquids crystallize inside the sensors, which is what causes the sticking most of the time. Reassemble float sensors.
5. If you have a multi float system, calibrate the sensors by loosening the locknut on the lowest sensor and push it down until it touches the bottom of the tank. Then pull it back out 1/2". Keep the upper sensor where it was and adjust the middle sensor halfway between the two. Reinstall the probe fitting in the tank.
6. Power up the system, and the tank sensor lights should indicate empty. If reads higher, then adjust the lowest sensor by pulling it further out until it reads empty.
Tighten all lock nuts.
7. System is now ready to go.
8. I pump out when the monitor system reads medium.
9. While I'm in the mood, I replace the duckbill valves, and the tank vent filter.
10. Take a hot shower, then pour myself a nice cold one!
I have used this method for six years and haven't had an issue.
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Old 08-09-2022, 07:53 AM   #27
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if the SCAD sensor is made by Tank-Edge, what is the difference between buying the Tank-Edge iSeries monitor and the SCAD monitor other than $$? Has anyone tried the iSeries?
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Old 08-09-2022, 09:17 AM   #28
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What makes you think the SCAD sensors are made by Tank Edge? They didn't invent capacitive sensors...those have been around for more than 30 years and have been used by mfs in the US and Europe....Gobius is the most well known European brand sold in the US.

The original Snake River Electronics, based in Idaho, was the first to use capacitive sensors in the US marine market...they went out of business in the '90s (Several companies--apparently including the Tank Edge parent company--have tried to revive the Snake River brand name, but without much success) succeeded by the Profile Monitors made and sold by Ferriello Sales (Dennis Ferriello had been SR's national sales manager). The Profile sensors were made by a subsidiary of Ferriello Sales, New Providence Marine.

SCAD's first tank monitors were their private label brand name for the Profile system. Ferriello Sales was closed when Dennis Ferriello (who, btw, was a good friend of mine) passed away about 3 years ago. SCAD no longer uses the Profile sensors, but continues to support the Profile monitors, shown on their website as "legacy tank monitors."

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Old 08-10-2022, 08:49 AM   #29
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hi - I thought I read in some other thread that the sensors were made by the same company (Tank-Edge) but I could easily have been mistaken. Since as you point out capacitance sensors are not anything new, is it safe to assume that the difference between the two products is really in the display and its electronics?
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Old 08-10-2022, 09:43 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by healhustler View Post
Just read the Webpage of Hart Systems Tank Tender. Very interesting approach in accurate gauging of tank levels. Thanks for the info.
Since I live in Gig Harbor, where they are made, I was pleased to have 2 boats in the past with the Hart system tank tender.

However my experience leads me not to recommend it for a waste tank for the simple reason that if you ever overfill your holding tank, the small air tube from the tank to the instrument can and will become clogged. We eventually solved the problem by running a second capillary tube between the tank and the instrument.
~A
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Old 08-10-2022, 11:02 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Delta4242 View Post
Stick to what you have. Here's my recipe.
1. Pull the tank sensor probe fitting out.
2. Scrape and loosen the crud at bottom of the tank as best you can, two paint stir sticks work great taped together.
3. Pump out the tank.
4. The sensors, that slide on the tubes, can come off by taking off their plastic clips on the bottoms. Keep track of which end was up. Clean the tubes and the insides of the sensors with a small tool. The liquids crystallize inside the sensors, which is what causes the sticking most of the time. Reassemble float sensors.
5. If you have a multi float system, calibrate the sensors by loosening the locknut on the lowest sensor and push it down until it touches the bottom of the tank. Then pull it back out 1/2". Keep the upper sensor where it was and adjust the middle sensor halfway between the two. Reinstall the probe fitting in the tank.
6. Power up the system, and the tank sensor lights should indicate empty. If reads higher, then adjust the lowest sensor by pulling it further out until it reads empty.
Tighten all lock nuts.
7. System is now ready to go.
8. I pump out when the monitor system reads medium.
9. While I'm in the mood, I replace the duckbill valves, and the tank vent filter.
10. Take a hot shower, then pour myself a nice cold one!
I have used this method for six years and haven't had an issue.
Our last boat had that system and it worked fine. But if it had ever quit working then I would have gone with the Scad system and left the old system in place. Really didn’t want to work on the floats after what they had been in…
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Old 08-11-2022, 10:24 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanT View Post
Since I live in Gig Harbor, where they are made, I was pleased to have 2 boats in the past with the Hart system tank tender.



However my experience leads me not to recommend it for a waste tank for the simple reason that if you ever overfill your holding tank, the small air tube from the tank to the instrument can and will become clogged. We eventually solved the problem by running a second capillary tube between the tank and the instrument.

~A
AlanT, I'm new (sort of) to the Tank Tender system. I've got the fuel tanks hooked up but not the black water tank. Some questions for you. Why would over filling block the tube anymore than normal use? Isn't it the crud drying in the tube that causes the blockage? Was the purge valve not enough to clear the tube? And finally, how did a 2nd tube solve the problem?

Thanks for taking the time to answer.
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Old 08-11-2022, 03:23 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Solly View Post
I guess we are old fashioned... We mark each day we are on the boat on a calendar. When it has 8 X's on the calendar it's time for a pump out....

Also have 1 of these for a backup-reminder...
https://www.defender.com/product3.js...306&id=1759985
We were much more old fashioned than that.
Climbed down in the engine compartment w a flashlight. Shined the light at the side of the tank and if the tank was clean enough one could easily see the fluid level inside.
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Old 08-11-2022, 04:42 PM   #34
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The tank tender has a purge valve which bypasses the pressure gage preventing gage damage when you pump the manual pump to clear the line of sludge once clear you release the purge valve and slowly pump the pump to get an accurate reading of inches of water. Works great I have no problem and check on a daily basis when cruising.
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