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02-21-2022, 10:38 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
City: Solomons MD.
Vessel Name: Sun Runner
Vessel Model: 1985 Mainship 34 Trawler MK III
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 488
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I guess we are old fashioned... We mark each day we are on the boat on a calendar. When it has 8 X's on the calendar it's time for a pump out....
Also have 1 of these for a backup-reminder...
https://www.defender.com/product3.js...306&id=1759985
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02-21-2022, 10:57 AM
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#22
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Guru
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Sandpiper
Vessel Model: Bluewater 40 Pilothouse Trawler
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solly
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The issue with that type of level monitor is it's exposure to the contents of the holding tank.
The sensor is an on and off switch activated by the sliding float. It gets immersed in waste when the tank gets close to full, which with an adequately sized tank is occassional. After pump out when the sensor is no longer immersed, any crud sticking to the sensor dries. After several immersion and dry cycles, the sliding part of the sensor will stick and unable to indicate a full tank.
I have one on my tank and by spring it is unable to indicate full because of stuck sensor. I fill the tank full of water and a high sudsing soap and let it sit overnite. Next day, I tap the top of the tank with a plastic handle to cause the sliding float to loosen. When the red, tank full, light comes on, stop tapping. I leave the holding tank full of water as long as possible to continue cleaning the sensor.
The other method would be to remove the sensor and clean it. Yuck!
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02-21-2022, 11:09 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
City: La Conner, WA
Vessel Name: Carousel
Vessel Model: Bayliner 4788 (1998)
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletcher500
Regarding the Scad exterior mount system on a FG tank; is everything external and no drilling required? I don't think I could get a drill in there if I wanted to, but should be able to apply the tape and sensors.
The reason I ask is the literature says “1/2 in hole” but I dont see that being needed including on a YT Vid by a do it yourselfer.
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The 1/2" hole is located behind the display to run the wires through. No holes are required by the tank. Before applying the foil tape to the outside of the tank be sure to clean the area outside well with alcohol so that the tape stays stuck.
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02-21-2022, 11:12 AM
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#24
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Guru
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Sandpiper
Vessel Model: Bluewater 40 Pilothouse Trawler
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWSeadog
The 1/2" hole is located behind the display to run the wires through. No holes are required by the tank. Before applying the foil tape to the outside of the tank be sure to clean the area outside well with alcohol so that the tape stays stuck.
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The sensors also stick better if the attachment area on the tank and sensors are heated slightly with a heat gun.
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03-17-2022, 07:02 AM
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#25
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Veteran Member
City: Seattle
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 63
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Maretron FPM100
We pulled out the float switch type monitor in our current boat. The floats have an issue over time they will get stuck with debris and it's not fun cracking the tank open to clean the sensor.
Replaced with a Maretron FPM100 over a year ago. Could not be happier with the setup. It works off the tank fluid pressure and sits at the bottom of the tank. You do need the Maretron N2k gateway to calibrate the sensor to the tank. Bonus is the calibration can do irregular sized tanks.
Install was super easy as there is an article on Panbo or Seabits for someone who did the same swap as we did between monitors.
The sensor is very accurate and right now looking at my display our tank is at 46% full.
Is it cheap no. Taking out guess work on holding tank fill level and not having clogged sensor. Priceless.
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03-17-2022, 11:09 AM
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#26
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Veteran Member
City: Manchester, CT
Vessel Name: Paradis
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 42 Europa
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 28
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Stick to what you have. Here's my recipe.
1. Pull the tank sensor probe fitting out.
2. Scrape and loosen the crud at bottom of the tank as best you can, two paint stir sticks work great taped together.
3. Pump out the tank.
4. The sensors, that slide on the tubes, can come off by taking off their plastic clips on the bottoms. Keep track of which end was up. Clean the tubes and the insides of the sensors with a small tool. The liquids crystallize inside the sensors, which is what causes the sticking most of the time. Reassemble float sensors.
5. If you have a multi float system, calibrate the sensors by loosening the locknut on the lowest sensor and push it down until it touches the bottom of the tank. Then pull it back out 1/2". Keep the upper sensor where it was and adjust the middle sensor halfway between the two. Reinstall the probe fitting in the tank.
6. Power up the system, and the tank sensor lights should indicate empty. If reads higher, then adjust the lowest sensor by pulling it further out until it reads empty.
Tighten all lock nuts.
7. System is now ready to go.
8. I pump out when the monitor system reads medium.
9. While I'm in the mood, I replace the duckbill valves, and the tank vent filter.
10. Take a hot shower, then pour myself a nice cold one!
I have used this method for six years and haven't had an issue.
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08-09-2022, 07:53 AM
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#27
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Veteran Member
City: SF Bay
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 28
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if the SCAD sensor is made by Tank-Edge, what is the difference between buying the Tank-Edge iSeries monitor and the SCAD monitor other than $$? Has anyone tried the iSeries?
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08-09-2022, 09:17 AM
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#28
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Guru
City: AR
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,515
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What makes you think the SCAD sensors are made by Tank Edge? They didn't invent capacitive sensors...those have been around for more than 30 years and have been used by mfs in the US and Europe....Gobius is the most well known European brand sold in the US.
The original Snake River Electronics, based in Idaho, was the first to use capacitive sensors in the US marine market...they went out of business in the '90s (Several companies--apparently including the Tank Edge parent company--have tried to revive the Snake River brand name, but without much success) succeeded by the Profile Monitors made and sold by Ferriello Sales (Dennis Ferriello had been SR's national sales manager). The Profile sensors were made by a subsidiary of Ferriello Sales, New Providence Marine.
SCAD's first tank monitors were their private label brand name for the Profile system. Ferriello Sales was closed when Dennis Ferriello (who, btw, was a good friend of mine) passed away about 3 years ago. SCAD no longer uses the Profile sensors, but continues to support the Profile monitors, shown on their website as "legacy tank monitors."
--Peggie
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08-10-2022, 08:49 AM
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#29
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Veteran Member
City: SF Bay
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 28
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hi - I thought I read in some other thread that the sensors were made by the same company (Tank-Edge) but I could easily have been mistaken. Since as you point out capacitance sensors are not anything new, is it safe to assume that the difference between the two products is really in the display and its electronics?
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08-10-2022, 09:43 AM
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#30
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Guru
City: Gig Harbor, WA
Vessel Name: MoonShadow
Vessel Model: Wendon Skylounge 72'
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by healhustler
Just read the Webpage of Hart Systems Tank Tender. Very interesting approach in accurate gauging of tank levels. Thanks for the info.
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Since I live in Gig Harbor, where they are made, I was pleased to have 2 boats in the past with the Hart system tank tender.
However my experience leads me not to recommend it for a waste tank for the simple reason that if you ever overfill your holding tank, the small air tube from the tank to the instrument can and will become clogged. We eventually solved the problem by running a second capillary tube between the tank and the instrument.
~A
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08-10-2022, 11:02 AM
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#31
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta4242
Stick to what you have. Here's my recipe.
1. Pull the tank sensor probe fitting out.
2. Scrape and loosen the crud at bottom of the tank as best you can, two paint stir sticks work great taped together.
3. Pump out the tank.
4. The sensors, that slide on the tubes, can come off by taking off their plastic clips on the bottoms. Keep track of which end was up. Clean the tubes and the insides of the sensors with a small tool. The liquids crystallize inside the sensors, which is what causes the sticking most of the time. Reassemble float sensors.
5. If you have a multi float system, calibrate the sensors by loosening the locknut on the lowest sensor and push it down until it touches the bottom of the tank. Then pull it back out 1/2". Keep the upper sensor where it was and adjust the middle sensor halfway between the two. Reinstall the probe fitting in the tank.
6. Power up the system, and the tank sensor lights should indicate empty. If reads higher, then adjust the lowest sensor by pulling it further out until it reads empty.
Tighten all lock nuts.
7. System is now ready to go.
8. I pump out when the monitor system reads medium.
9. While I'm in the mood, I replace the duckbill valves, and the tank vent filter.
10. Take a hot shower, then pour myself a nice cold one!
I have used this method for six years and haven't had an issue.
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Our last boat had that system and it worked fine. But if it had ever quit working then I would have gone with the Scad system and left the old system in place. Really didn’t want to work on the floats after what they had been in…
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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08-11-2022, 10:24 AM
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#32
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Guru
City: Coupeville Wa.
Vessel Name: Pacific Myst
Vessel Model: West Bay 4500
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanT
Since I live in Gig Harbor, where they are made, I was pleased to have 2 boats in the past with the Hart system tank tender.
However my experience leads me not to recommend it for a waste tank for the simple reason that if you ever overfill your holding tank, the small air tube from the tank to the instrument can and will become clogged. We eventually solved the problem by running a second capillary tube between the tank and the instrument.
~A
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AlanT, I'm new (sort of) to the Tank Tender system. I've got the fuel tanks hooked up but not the black water tank. Some questions for you. Why would over filling block the tube anymore than normal use? Isn't it the crud drying in the tube that causes the blockage? Was the purge valve not enough to clear the tube? And finally, how did a 2nd tube solve the problem?
Thanks for taking the time to answer.
__________________
Some things are worth doing simply because they are worth doing.
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08-11-2022, 03:23 PM
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#33
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solly
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We were much more old fashioned than that.
Climbed down in the engine compartment w a flashlight. Shined the light at the side of the tank and if the tank was clean enough one could easily see the fluid level inside.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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08-11-2022, 04:42 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
City: Poulsbo
Vessel Name: Water Music
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 49 classic
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 221
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The tank tender has a purge valve which bypasses the pressure gage preventing gage damage when you pump the manual pump to clear the line of sludge once clear you release the purge valve and slowly pump the pump to get an accurate reading of inches of water. Works great I have no problem and check on a daily basis when cruising.
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