Ventilation improvement suggestions

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kpinnn

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Messages
137
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Periwinkle
Vessel Make
Gulfstar 36
For those that remember I purchased a 36 ft Gulfstar MKII In Florida and closed in August. e had planned on cruising up the ICW to Cape Cod but instead decided to keep in Key Largo and start up in March. Taxes, and all other paper and legal documents have been complied with so keeping in Florida is not an issue. One of the issues we ran into when first using was the lack of ventilation and failed AC. In Mass AC will probably not be an issue but air flo is. The vessel has a huge hatch in the front cabin but the aft cabin has only port lights that open on the sides of the cabin. There are non opening port lights in the rear of the aft cabinCould replace the non opening port lights with opening. Also looed at the stacks used in sail boats. Any suggestion or personal experiences woudl be great.

Ken
 
Our Gulfstar 38, has the same rear cabin windows.
One consideration about windows that open is diesel fumes entering the cabin.
 
Are you talking about ventilation in the slip? Or when in the ICW and perhaps anchoring out? It would be easy to install a small 110V window unit in that sliding door on the starboard side of the saloon, with a bit of plywood cutout work, if you are talking about being in the slip with shore power. Might not look all that fancy, but it would work on a temporary basis just fine.

John
 
I am just commenting on the risk, while under way, on a rear facing window. Accidentally left open and a grandchild takes a nap.....
 
I also was concerned with vapors as well as another location for possible leakage. So how do I get the air to flow through the vessel. There must be others with simular gulfstar problem.
 
Figure out where to chop the hole and install a 20x20 (or bigger) hatch in the overhead.

If you will only run marina to marina and live in a marina up North , fans and air cond will be fine.

If you will anchor out (possible everywhere north of Daytona Beach to Maine ) hatches and sun covers will be required for no noisemaker comfort.

Depending on your SOA (speed of advance) some sort of cabin heat will be required as the water takes a long time to warm up every spring.
 
I think I am looking for an easy solution when the real solution is obvious. Our first and last boat was a 28 ft rinker express cruiser. Probably the only thing I did like was the great ventilation when anchored or moored. The gulfstar has a 20 X 20 or bigger hatch in the forward cabin and not much in the aft. Two port lights that open. Maybe 1/2 the square area of the hatch. Of course salon door can be opened and there are two large windows in the salon also. I would think the air would move at least into the salon with some velocity but does not seem to . I wondered if it could be because the water is so warm when compared to the water we are used to in Mass or Maine. The reason I am reluctant to cut in another hatch in the aft cabin is because it would be in the middle of the rear deck which other than the fly bridge is the only other location to sit outside. I wonder if the sailboat stack vents (don't know what they are realy called) facing rearward would provide enough exit area. Again, something is wrong, I should be experiencing air flow into and out of the salon with all of the exit area there, and don't.
 
I called the ventilation company yesterday but have not gottwn call back. I will try them again. Certainly there ad is worth investigating.
 
Just went back to the ventilation web site. They have two systems one at $495 for 4 areas and another for $695 covering 8 areas. 50 cfm and 100 cfm respectively. Requires either 120 volt or an inverted. .5 amps at 120 volt or 1.5 amps with inverter on 12 volts.
 
The site says they are drawing through 1" diameter hoses. I don't think it will give you the volume you need.
 
For those that remember I purchased a 36 ft Gulfstar MKII In Florida and closed in August. e had planned on cruising up the ICW to Cape Cod but instead decided to keep in Key Largo and start up in March. Taxes, and all other paper and legal documents have been complied with so keeping in Florida is not an issue. One of the issues we ran into when first using was the lack of ventilation and failed AC. In Mass AC will probably not be an issue but air flo is. The vessel has a huge hatch in the front cabin but the aft cabin has only port lights that open on the sides of the cabin. There are non opening port lights in the rear of the aft cabinCould replace the non opening port lights with opening. Also looed at the stacks used in sail boats. Any suggestion or personal experiences woudl be great. Ken

Not sure if it will work for you, but as long as the ambient air temp is below 84 a couple of strategically placed caframo two blade fan will move enough air to sleep comfortably. They move up to 250 com are quiet and use no more than .3 amps. They make them for 120 ac 12 or 24 dc. Prices are higher for the dc models. Another solution we've used in windier locations is a Davis wind scoop. West marine sells a knock off of it for about 30% less than Davis. Mount it over the forward hatch and you'll be pushing air through the whole boat.

Via iPad using Trawler
 
Just went back to the ventilation web site. They have two systems one at $495 for 4 areas and another for $695 covering 8 areas. 50 cfm and 100 cfm respectively. Requires either 120 volt or an inverted. .5 amps at 120 volt or 1.5 amps with inverter on 12 volts.

Wouldn't .5 amps @ 120v. be 5 amps at 12 v ?
 
Davis air scoop?? I will look into. That is my goal to push air through boat. Also left message with Camframo for their suggestions.

Ken
 
Dorade vents, Nicro Fico, Vetus along with the dorade boxes will ventilate the cabin. Just be sure the dorade boxes are good ones so they don't allow water to get below. They can be screened and closed if required.
These can be left open when travelling.

Replacement of the fixed portlights with opening portlights may be considered.

Hatches are available in smaller sizes than the typical 24" escape hatch. Although not cheap they should work well and do a better job of venting than the dorades.
With the smaller sizes they could be installed out of the foot traffic path , maybe even in the cabin back wall. They may need to be shut when travelling.
 
Build the Dorade vents and you can make useful sized vents. 6 inch down pipe is about minimum.

Our way is to install a 6-8 inch plastic cover on the inside and purchase at least 2 more centers that fit the cover..

The small DC computer fans are not reversible , so we trim them to round and glue one facing each way into the spare covers.

Blow or suck , or sealed for the winter , you choose.

A second trick is to hinge the top of the Dorade cover so it can be unfastened from below (skylight pull tight ) and propped open for direct air flow. This will produce more air flow if a screen is in the 6inch vent pipe.

With the fwd section hinged open a second winter cover can be installed , from on deck.
Double insulated for winter or 2 seal sets if the deck box is swept off.

Required as the Dorade is directly over the bed.

A 24 V computer fan installed will run on 12v at less than half speed , and NO noise if just a gentle breeze is required.
 
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For those boats blessed with actual opening hatches screening is sometimes required.

Soft screen that is well over sized for the hatch can either have a section of copper window sash chain sewed all around ,(best) or hemmed and fishing line weights squeezed over the hem.

This is easy to snatch in when the rain starts and toss back in place from inside when needed.
 
The site says they are drawing through 1" diameter hoses. I don't think it will give you the volume you need.

Yeah, something is wrong with that ... moving 50cfm through a 1 inch hose means it is moving over 100mph ... the noise would be interesting to say the least
 
I have a small AC Air conditioner in the salon window. Been there for ten years and works fine in the dock. Use the 2000 honda at anchor
 
Purchased a new product from Caframo. It is a 12 volt fan that attaches temporarily to the bow hatch. It can be directed in any direction. I will try in a few weeks. At max speed it moves 500 CFM.

Ken
 

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