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Old 11-22-2020, 07:59 AM   #21
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To ease a thru hull removal there are tools that will fit inside the thruhull from the outside that allow the unit to be unscrewed. Groco?

On inspected boats the thru hull is sometimes required to be removed for inspection , work of a few min. with the tool , look for pink, toss or re goop and install with proper bedding compound.
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Old 11-22-2020, 09:50 AM   #22
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I guess I would take a different approach.

How old are you and how old is the boat? Fresh or salt water?

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Old 11-23-2020, 01:06 PM   #23
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I think the area of the hull with a capped/plugged thru hull is stronger than a patch by someone that is not an expert. In fiberglass, the bevel needs to be on the outside so water pressure is holding it in place, not working to push it out.

My current boat was built in 1942. Most of the thru hulls are original and in excellent shape. They get disassembled and checked for structural integrity each haul out. All are zinc protected and bonded. Most bronze thru hulls, properly cared for, will last the life of the boat.
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Old 11-27-2020, 09:33 PM   #24
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I guess I would take a different approach.

How old are you and how old is the boat? Fresh or salt water?

pete


The boat is a 1990 Island Gypsy and Iím 36. It was used in salt water but has been sitting on the hard for around 12-16 years now. Had the last boat 7 years plan to keep this one much longer! Used the angle grinder technique on the outside and a few different tools to cut out the flange on the inside. Thatís only the first one but went fairly smoothly. Doesnít look as bad as I originally thought.
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Old 11-27-2020, 09:38 PM   #25
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What type of backing was used on the inside of the thru hulls? If you are replacing it you might look at G10 fiberglass. Tough stuff. Jamestown Distributers sells it.
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Old Yesterday, 03:10 PM   #26
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Thru Hull's What Would You Do?

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What type of backing was used on the inside of the thru hulls? If you are replacing it you might look at G10 fiberglass. Tough stuff. Jamestown Distributers sells it.


The backing was wood glassed to the hull. They even glassed around the valve over the flange that was screwed to the wood backing. These thru hulls have no purpose so just removing them but will follow your advise on the repair. Thanks for the help!
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Old Yesterday, 04:26 PM   #27
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Yes, a grinder or multi tool will take care of that. Since you are not going to replace them you will have to grind a taper in the hull anyway. We just glassed 6 holes closed last month. Still have to sand the bottom and do the exterior painting but that will wait til spring before we launch..
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Old Yesterday, 04:54 PM   #28
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Thru hulls

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I am currently working through rebuilding my 1990 Island Gypsy 36 project boat. I have come across 5-6 old thru hull fittings below the water line that have no purpose and are seized closed. They are 1" to 1.5" factory installed and I have no idea what they could have been used for aside from scuttling valves. My original plan was to just cap them with appropriate sized threaded caps and move one. However a good friend who is also a boater and a mechanical engineer pointed out they are just extra failure points and should be removed. I looked at removing them but they appear to be threaded from the outside (male) and glassed into the hull on the inside (female). I am not familiar with this set up where the actual valve body inside the hull is not threaded. I'm not a big fan on having 11 or 12 thru hulls below the waterline when half of them have no purpose but it looks like a lot of work to cut them out. How prone to failure is this style of thru hull? My main worry is crevice corrosion where they cant be inspected before the valve body. What would you do if this was on your boat?
I had this exact issue on my boat. The short answer to your question is, "When I had my boat hauled for blister repair and bottom paint, I had every un necessary through hull removed and the hole glassed in". I figured anything I could do to reduce failures would pay off. Not sure about your set up, but metal through hulls are also subject to electrolysis and all kinds of other issues. Plus, all that extra garbage is unsightly, and difficult to get around.
I'd get rid of them. It's not that expensive.
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Old Yesterday, 04:57 PM   #29
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Anyone figure out why there were so many extra through hull valves?
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Old Yesterday, 05:41 PM   #30
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When we filled the 4 through hulls, we epoxied in a fiberglass disc about halfway. Then we beveled the outside and filled it with multiple layers of biaxial cloth and West System. After that, we beveled the inside and repeated the filling process. The fiberglass disc is likely beveled away from the inside. Beveling from both sides and layering with biaxial and epoxy, probably gives the the strongest hull repair.

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Old Yesterday, 06:39 PM   #31
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Anyone figure out why there were so many extra through hull valves?
When we bought our boat there were 12 extra antenna mounts on the boat and the marina told me that they had removed 2 mounts and filled the holes. And there were still 2 VHF antennas mounted. Who knows why POs do things like that.
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Old Yesterday, 10:00 PM   #32
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Anyone figure out why there were so many extra through hull valves?


I have no idea what they could have been connected to. 1 or 2 could have been supply to the heads that are now fresh water. There are also thru hulls for each engine, generator, air conditioning and salt water anchor wash down that are working and in relatively good condition. Not to mention speed sensor, depth finder etc. Considering the ones in use and all the old ones Iím removing it seems excessive for holes below the waterline for a 36í boat.
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