Originally Posted by koliver
A regular Rule float switch? A non vented tank with that float switch inside? Something else? How do you get at the float switch?
My aft head sink is on centerline, so it and both showers drain into a sump in the bilge. That in turn is emptied with a Rule pump activated by that regular Rule float switch. It gets enough flow from the three inputs so the water gets pumped out before any stink develops. It is also small enough that only a cupful of water remains after pumping. There is no top on that sump, except that it is covered by one of the bilge floor boards. If it ever overflowed it would be pumped by the fwd bilge pump.
Which is how quite a few (most?) sump/bilge setups are arranged.
What I've got are two Whale gray water sumps, older models that are just gray poly with round white inspection hatches. The are not vented. Inside each is a Rule-a-Matic 40A switch (the rectangular kind, not the open paddle type). These trigger Whale Gulper pumps.
Replacing the switch was a simple matter of opening the inspection hatch, unscrewing the stainless nut holding it down and threading the wires out of the tank top. Replacement was likewise simple, just splicing the new one back into the existing wiring.
The float inside one died, resulting in that sump overflowing (by forcing water out of the lid). Which, in turn landed in the bilge below which, like many, never pumps 'entirely' dry... leading to stagnant waters from sinks causing a stink.
Looks like Ambassador has some traps that could work in my situation.
I'd replace the existing flange/tailpiece under the sink itself. Their flip-up variation would eliminate the need to keep the stopper on a chain (or scramble to find it later).