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Old 11-02-2018, 08:34 AM   #21
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What pump would you use to replace the T-series?


This is where it gets complicated. And keep in mind that my pump did last 4 years, and as a gray water pump, it operates WAY more than black water. I can only guess how much more, but I expect it’s 5 to 10 times as much. So it’s life pumping poo should be a lot longer, and I had no issues with the identical pop pump.

With that preamble, headhunter makes their “tortuga” pump which is much heavier duty. And the Edson ELB pumps are monsters and often used in shore side pumpout stations. Nordhavn uses both in their bigger boats, and I have seen them in other brand large boats. Cost is probably 10x to 20x, and they are significantly larger, especially the Edson.

I think looking back on it, my experience only says the T may not last real long in high duty service like gray water, but given their cost it’s still a pretty economical solution.

And perhaps the more significant point is that a bellows replacement still fix the pump, only whole replacement. I dont know why, but in the future I would just plan a whole unit replacement and not a bellows repair.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:51 AM   #22
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I think those pumps are fine for an intermittent use boat, but for heavy use something more robust is required.

Then you'd have to say the same thing about a VacuFlush toilet, 'cuz the T-Series pump is identical to the VacuFlush S-pump with only two exceptions: it has only two duckbill valves costs about half the price. If a V/F pump is robust enough to last for years on a live-aboard boat, the T-Pump is certainly robust enough to last for decades doing nothing but dumping a tank every week or so.



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Old 11-02-2018, 10:58 AM   #23
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But the law's never been amended, so there's nothing in writing that says a keyed pump is ok...leaving the possibility open that you could run into a "local yokel" with an advanced case of Barny Fife syndrome. So local knowledge from other boat owners when you cruise is worth seeking out.


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I agree. I boat on inland waters where discharge is NEVER allowed, so I've removed the handle (which is also compliant). But it seems to save me from having to clear the cockpit and open the hatch just to demonstrate compliance. It wasn't why I installed in the first place but it's had a nice side benefit.
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Old 11-02-2018, 12:59 PM   #24
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Grey water applications may be more difficult that black water. Why? Grease buildup. For those that use a garbage disposal into a grey water tank it adds another dimension of very hard to pump stuff. Poo is easy in comparison.

Thus the grey water search for a capable but well priced centrifugal pump designed for pumping solids. I've used many of these types of slurry pumps in industry, lots to choose from. Unless the builder makes accommodations for the proper install of the right pump, it can get tricky for grey water applications.
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Old 11-02-2018, 03:14 PM   #25
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The law is fairly specific about what is clearly acceptable:

"...the operator must secure each Type III device in a manner which prevents discharge of sewage. Acceptable methods of securing the device include -

(1) Closing each valve leading to an overboard discharge and removing the handle;

(2) Padlocking each valve leading to an overboard discharge in the closed position; or

(3) Using a non-releasable wire-tie to hold each valve leading to an overboard discharge in the closed position."

But the wording does not preclude other methods. It would be hard for them to convince a judge that a key lock on the valve or a plastic wire tie is more secure than a key lock on the pump required to use the valve.

I for one am certainly happy that my 40 gallons is not allowed to be added to the millions of gallons per day dumped into the same waters by the nearby cities.
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Old 11-03-2018, 01:45 AM   #26
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May I ask another question? When I serviced the last pump (replacing the bellows etc) I found it really, really hard to get the bellows clamps in place.

Any ideas how to make this easier?
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:11 PM   #27
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Peggy, how could the holding tank fill with sea water (if the thru-hull is left open) since there should be two duck bills in the way?
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:39 PM   #28
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The operative phrase in your question is "should be." The T-Pump, unlike the S-Pump in a VacuFlush isn't troubled by air leaks...it could do just as good a job of dumping a holding tank without any duckbills (not recommending that!!) as it does with a pair of brand new ones. So replacing 'em is even easier to neglect than joker valves in toilets (How often do you change yours?). And like joker valves, duckbills in a T-Pump don't stay closed tightly very long...water being forced up a line through an open thru-hull would have little trouble seeping through the pump into the tank.



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Old 11-28-2018, 01:19 PM   #29
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According to the letter of the law (33 CFR 159.7), it not only has to be closed, it has to be "secured" (wire tied). However, keyed macerators didn't exist when the law was written in the late '70s and the USCG and most state and local water cops accept it as an alternative to actually wiring the seacock closed (the thru-hull should be kept closed except when actually dumping the tank anyway, unless you want to risk filling the tank with sea water). But the law's never been amended, so there's nothing in writing that says a keyed pump is ok...leaving the possibility open that you could run into a "local yokel" with an advanced case of Barny Fife syndrome. So local knowledge from other boat owners when you cruise is worth seeking out.


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Where does this leave the Hold N'Treat system that Raritan advertises as legal in all US waters. Doesn't it lock out by key only?
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Old 11-28-2018, 02:36 PM   #30
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It doesn't "lock out" because there's nothing to lock out. The Hold 'n' Treat Raritan Hold N'Treat Bundle is a holding tank combined with an ElectroScan or PuraSan (Type I treatment devices). All flushes go into the tank which can either be pumped out or emptied via the treatment device. Not dumped, but metered out of the tank and into the treatment device a gallon at a time to be put through 2.5 minute treatment cycles until the tank is empty.

If you read 33 CFR 159.7 33 CFR 159.7 you'll see that closing and locking the door to the head is one of the acceptable means of "securing" a system that includes a Type I or Type II treatment device.

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Old 11-28-2018, 03:09 PM   #31
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Peggy, I was referring to the keyed wall mounted control that allows you to lock out the system in a NDZ. http://www.raritaneng.com/wp-content...trolsPromo.pdf

Nothing in the CFR you referred to addresses this as an acceptable method though Raritan advertises it as such. I am wondering if anyone has been boarded and had an issue with relying on the keyed lockout without doing anything else such as securing the seacock.

We have a Purasan currently with no holding tank and are looking into the Hold N'Treat control with a small holding tank for use in NDZs when travelling.
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Old 11-28-2018, 08:47 PM   #32
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Please read post #20 in this thread. If it doesn't provide the answer you're looking for, I cannot help you further.


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Old 11-29-2018, 06:06 AM   #33
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I usually rebuild anything that has failed , but on poop pumps I have noticed the price of the kit is so close to the price of a new pump , sometimes it isn't worth the effort.
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