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Old 02-18-2020, 06:20 PM   #21
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Peroxide has less risk of damaging metal components in the system, as it's less corrosive.
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Did Noah have a get home-engine?
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Old 02-18-2020, 08:27 PM   #22
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Spitting and coughing doesn't sound like a pump problem. Sounds like it is getting air. if the pump has a leak in the housing it could a pump problem, although you said it runs fine with one tank isolated. Concentrate on the tank and lines that the problem shows up with. If the the lines are allowing it to suck air when running, they will most likely be leaking water when off. If a visual inspection of the lines is not possible, then maybe try a temporary line. This will be the lines between the pump and tank. Also, check the valves, often valves will leak at the packing when open but not when closed, or vice versa. If the tank has a dip tube from the top then the dip tube is suspect, especially if it starts coughing and spitting when 2/3 full.
Thanks for the reply TW, you have raised some good points, I will check the lines forward of the tanks, all easily accessed. A deck wash pump has been grafted into the fw supply line right near the house supply pump, so maybe there is a leak around there?
Although as mentioned, a cleaner flow resulted from isolating each tank
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Old 02-28-2020, 05:21 PM   #23
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Thanks for the quick responses so far, appreciate the comments. I live three hours from the boat, just here for the day and thought I'd put the question out there.
The tanks are SS, both have inspection hatches, shutoff valves and sight tubes. The pump is a Shurflo 3 GPM. The aft tank fills from the stb deck and the lower ER tank fills from the port side deck.
The PO only filled the aft tank for some reason, and again, just short period cruising, never testing or thinking about the entire system, in fact he didn't realise there was a lower, ER tank?

I have 2 forward tanks, and to aft tanks (300 gl total). because the aft tanks are slightly higher (under master bunk vs under the floor in the front) I can fill the entire system by filling the aft tank fill only. Provided all valves are open and I fill slow enough for water to flow to the forward tanks. That MIGHT have been what the PO was doing if the ER tank is lower.
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Old 02-29-2020, 07:58 AM   #24
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"Yeah, the little bit of lead that makes a brass/bronze alloy easier to cast has caused some sort of conniption in certain places."


Its not easier to cast the alloy is called "Free Machining Bronze" because it is faster to machine.
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Old 02-29-2020, 09:16 AM   #25
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Yes, I was confused. Recently working with aluminum alloys with copper added and assumed incorrectly.
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Old 03-01-2020, 04:54 AM   #26
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I have 2 forward tanks, and to aft tanks (300 gl total). because the aft tanks are slightly higher (under master bunk vs under the floor in the front) I can fill the entire system by filling the aft tank fill only. Provided all valves are open and I fill slow enough for water to flow to the forward tanks. That MIGHT have been what the PO was doing if the ER tank is lower.
Not sure the PO actually knew there was a second ER tank, his comment to me was THE tank can either fill from the port or stb filler.

Anyhow, the spluttering has stopped with the isolation of one of the tanks, and just drawing from one. Trying to track down a fresh water leak, originally thought it may have been the lower ER tank, but it appears to be on the pressure side of the aft head, probably shower supply.
Oh well, another project to track down
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