Raw Water Strainer Failure - Endemic?

[stubones99]

Be careful with the WD40. Not knowing what the seals are made of, I try to be careful about using WD40 around oil based "rubber" seals.

I agree with dhays. Use silicone spray lube on the Orings since some of them are made of rubber which breaks down with petroleum products.

 

[Larry M]

...Use silicone spray lube on the Orings since some of them are made of rubber which breaks down with petroleum products.

We use Super Lube, a silicone based grease. Great for O-rings and you can use it on potable water parts. Aerosol or in a tube. I like the tubes better.

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-9...TF8&qid=1485115269&sr=1-3&keywords=super+lube

 

[Lou_tribal]

It looks to me like the bonding has failed. The green is also an indication of salt water in there but look at all that loose crappy wiring in there too! Sorry Marty, it looks to me like a long history of no maintenance down there. Does the rest of the bilge look like that too? If so, your winter project is clear, if this strainer failed because it's never been looked at, a bunch of other stuff down there is poised to do the same and as you saw, you could lose he entire boat. Everything below the waterline. Throughhulls, strainers, all hoses, hose clamps, stuffing box, all that crap wiring and last but not least, bonding!

Don't want to look bad but when I see how the strainer looks I also think there was a lack of maintenance there and not really surprised that a bold failed because of corrosion.

 

[Bay Pelican]

I am going to rebuild my Perko sea strainers after seeing this thread. I don't have much corrosion on mine, but after recently replacing the lid gaskets, I find that I have to really crank down on the wing nuts to stop the lid from weeping.
I believe that my wing nuts are bottomed out even with new gaskets.

Bill

Then my posting is worthwhile as it warned at least onevperson.

After reading the thread I will replace all bolts and the gaskets.

 

[HopCar]

A note to all of you with these Perko strainers. They were originally sold with cork gaskets. At some point Perko made a change to the strainer and switched to rubber gaskets.
They are not interchangeable. If your strainer came with cork gaskets, stick with cork.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. BP. Over the years I have found that pretty well EVERY posting is worthwhile. Now I've got to check MY strainers...All 4 of them...Well, mostly worthwhile.

Mr. HC. How can you tell the difference if they've already been changed?

 

[Keysdisease]

Re color, all naval bronze has a high copper content and will naturally take on the green patina seen in these photos. It's natural over time and not an indication of lack of maintenance.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

I am going to rebuild my Perko sea strainers after seeing this thread. I don't have much corrosion on mine, but after recently replacing the lid gaskets, I find that I have to really crank down on the wing nuts to stop the lid from weeping.
I believe that my wing nuts are bottomed out even with new gaskets.

Bill

I dig out the old gasket, clean out the depression the gasket sits in and fill the depression to the level of the lip of the depression with silicone.

Once it's set up you have a gasket that out lasts the OEM one.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Re color, all naval bronze has a high copper content and will naturally take on the green patina seen in these photos. It's natural over time and not an indication of lack of maintenance.

There is a difference between normal patina and an excessive build up of corrosion.

 

[78puget-trawler]

Unless I missed it somewhere, the most important thing was not mentioned. Close all thru hulls when not in use.

 

[dhays]

Unless I missed it somewhere, the most important thing was not mentioned. Close all thru hulls when not in use.

I used to do this on my sailboat all the time. However I have to admit that I don't do it on trawler. Not sure there are many here that do.

 

[78puget-trawler]

And by this story its obvious why its a good idea. When I got my boat the me thru hull was froze solid, open! In the water is not the place to try to un freeze a thru hull. Had to wait until haul out to fix it. If not on the boat all valves are closed, its just good insurance.

 

[koliver]

I used to do this on my sailboat all the time. However I have to admit that I don't do it on trawler. Not sure there are many here that do.

On one of my insurance surveys, the surveyor remarked that my thru hulls moved well, a phenomenon that he rarely encountered.

Not that I close mine often, as I don't, I just worked them all before the survey, to be sure they wouldn't end up a "surveyor's recommendation"

 

[North Baltic sea]

Re color, all naval bronze has a high copper content and will naturally take on the green patina seen in these photos. It's natural over time and not an indication of lack of maintenance.

you are right, one possible factor in the water condenses on the bronze part. if the water is less than 17C ° and warmer air begins to this phenomenon, if the metal is coated with an insulator.

 

[BruceK]

I used to do this on my sailboat all the time. However I have to admit that I don't do it on trawler. Not sure there are many here that do.

I`ve heard that is a common sailboat vs power boat practice. Not one I observe,except for short absences, I leave them closed when we leave the boat.
Memory says we had a looong thread about it.