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Old 05-17-2021, 11:33 PM   #1
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Plumbing: Crimp/Press copper fittings

I would like to use copper press fittings to replumb my vessel: water rated for potable water and gas rated for diesel fuel.

Has anyone used these with success or otherwise? I wouldn't trust my soldering in the many out of position locations and these seem to be a good solution.

Many crimpers have "V" series jaws while others are "TH". I assume these are single grooves over the oring vs crimping down a flat colar. For the fittings below, would I need "V" jaws?

https://plumbingsales.com.au/copper-tube-fittings/kempress-gas/15mm-connector-kempress-gas.html

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/332905738625

Thanks
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Old 05-17-2021, 11:52 PM   #2
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Not sure where you are located but here I would use PEX tube and fittings. Very easy to work with and very durable.
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Old 05-18-2021, 01:21 AM   #3
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I’m planning on PEX for water. For diesel I’m just going with brass barb fittings, good hose clamps, and A1 fuel line. Easy and anything more seems overkill for under 10psi.
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Old 05-18-2021, 02:23 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneDiving View Post
I would like to use copper press fittings to replumb my vessel: water rated for potable water and gas rated for diesel fuel.

Has anyone used these with success or otherwise? I wouldn't trust my soldering in the many out of position locations and these seem to be a good solution.

Many crimpers have "V" series jaws while others are "TH". I assume these are single grooves over the oring vs crimping down a flat colar. For the fittings below, would I need "V" jaws?

https://plumbingsales.com.au/copper-...press-gas.html

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/332905738625

Thanks
Why not PEX piping?
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Old 05-23-2021, 06:49 AM   #5
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A boat is not a house, so sadly at times systems will have to be trouble shot to solve a problem.

Its much easier to unscrew good hose clamps than cut off locking crimps.

On my boats flair fittings seem the easiest for liquids.
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Old 05-23-2021, 10:07 AM   #6
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With the vibration in a boat I'd be a little leery of solder or crimp connections. Reinforced vinyl (plastic) hose and barb fittings for water. Copper and flare fittings for anything flammable. Although hose rated for fuel (diesel and gas) and barb fittings would be okay too. Propane, use made up hoses rated for LPG.
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Old 05-23-2021, 10:41 AM   #7
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PEX all the way for me for water (House, Cabin which freezes, and boat). The ease of running a flexible Pex supply line, making connections (with the right tool which is expensive) make it a compelling choice. Then the fact that it rarely fails even when suffering freezing conditions, and is not susceptible to vibration are the icing on the cake.
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Old 05-23-2021, 10:44 AM   #8
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Agree with the recommendation to not use solder or crimp. Not only due to the vibrations but due to the challenge of working in tight spaces. I'd also avoid compression fittings due to vibration.

I just finished a complete overhaul of the steering system. I'm not sure I'll ever use copper on a boat again. The cost, quality and availability of copper makes it a distant second choice for me. Add in the challenge of bending the copper around multiple twists and turns without work hardening it and I'll in future go with rated hose for fuel, LPG and hydraulics. PEX or similar for water.

I don't use Sharkbite due to cost except when connecting old copper to new PEX. I also don't use PEX's fittings. I prefer Flair-it fittings, easy to use, no special tools required, less expensive.
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Old 05-23-2021, 11:04 AM   #9
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My boat was OEM built with Whale tubing and fittings.

This is the same as PEX, probably is PEX but is metric sized

All the advantages of PEX plus you get fittings that can be installed, and taken apart. No hose clamps either.

Disadvantages... You are tied to Whale brand tubing and fittings, but they are very popular and available at marine supply houses here in the USA at least.
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Old 05-23-2021, 11:08 AM   #10
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My OA uses copper thru out for water and fuel. I can see why you want to use it. OA did not solder or crimp. They felt neither method was acceptable for boating. Every joint is flared using a flared connector and flared Union.

If you want to use copper I would recommend sticking with this tried and true method.

Flaring tools can be as cheap as $30.
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Old 05-23-2021, 12:41 PM   #11
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Pex is not good with high heat or UV. I suspect a surveyor would have a problem with the use of Pex for fuel since it lacks the fire retardant like A1-15 hose would.
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Old 05-23-2021, 01:00 PM   #12
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Pex is not good with high heat or UV. I suspect a surveyor would have a problem with the use of Pex for fuel since it lacks the fire retardant like A1-15 hose would.
Agreed. I don't see anyone in this thread recommending PEX for fuel. Only for potable water.
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Old 05-23-2021, 04:49 PM   #13
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Agreed. I don't see anyone in this thread recommending PEX for fuel. Only for potable water.
I thought I saw someone recommending using PEX for fuel too. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
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Old 05-23-2021, 05:00 PM   #14
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Another vote for PEX for potable water. I used the Uponor expander ring PEX system and it worked out well.
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Old 05-23-2021, 05:05 PM   #15
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Thanks guys. I was proposing copper waterlines as I'll only be installing minimal new runs and the existing water plumbing is compression fittings. No leaks on the existing 20yo system.

Fuel I'll have to think about. Again the exiting is copper pipe and compression fittings but it's taken a beating. 3 tanks at the furthest ends of the vessel. No leaks but numerous dented and crushed lines. I also want to make some valve, filter and transfer additions so it will be easier just to pull everything and start again.
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Old 05-23-2021, 05:41 PM   #16
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Yes the approved fuel hose will be better than the old copper fuel lines. Start over and clean the system up. Have fun and let us know how it goes.
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Old 05-23-2021, 06:37 PM   #17
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Another vote for PEX for potable water. I used the Uponor expander ring PEX system and it worked out well.
My boat was built with the Uponor system and it is what I used in our house. It was the obvious choice for me when making up a bypass for the water heater when winterizing.

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Old 05-24-2021, 12:06 PM   #18
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My boat was built with the Uponor system and it is what I used in our house. It was the obvious choice for me when making up a bypass for the water heater when winterizing.

Rob

PEX likely shouldn't be that close to your water heater, especially if it goes to 180 degrees F.
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Old 05-24-2021, 12:56 PM   #19
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PEX not recommended for high heat? That's what Sure Marine recommended for my hydronic heat installation. I used the crimp fittings and haven't had any leaks. I had to remove one crimp and a die grinder took it off with no damage to the PEX.
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Old 05-24-2021, 12:58 PM   #20
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The first 18 inches from the hot side of any water heater should be copper whether using CPVC or Pex.
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PEX likely shouldn't be that close to your water heater, especially if it goes to 180 degrees F.
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