Peggie Question

[Obx]

Hi Peggie;
I've been having trouble with my holding tank and hose connection and now hoses.

I've decided to install a Ruritian Lectra San system.
I'm planning to hard pipe(PVC) the entire system unless I have to use hose in places where PVC won't work.

I'm going to replace all existing hose with new hose leading to the holding tank with a Y valve to connect the new system to the holding tank "in case OF".

My main question:: is there anything I can spray (like Killz) (for a house water stain) the engine bulkhead/ overhead insulation to seal/ rid any impregnated odors??

 

[Mule]

I would like to jump in here. Not with an answer but a question also.

I need a holding tank to augment my electroscan. I have a large compartment but the distance to the holding tank is 16 feet with 4 90 degree elbows needed and a 3 or 4 foot lift to dump into the top of the holding tank. Do you think the internal internal masarator pump in the raritan de elenance will fo it or will an external pump be called for?

I hope to use 3.5 inch PEX or PVC for the long run with flexible Raritan sanatation hose, but open to suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Obx]

I talked to Raritan Support and what they told me is the toilet pressure is what makes the system work all the way to the outside of the boat.

90% sweeps would be better if you can use them in lieu of straight 90% elbows.
I read in the installation manual (you can get a copy on line) that you could use a lift pump from toilet to the system if the tank is above the toilet height, so you may could use it on the other end.

 

[Robin]

I was told by our local guru that 'velocity' was king and he recommended a smaller diameter pipe for that kind of run, kinda like pinching the end of a garden hose to get a stronger jet. Oh and he hunted out and replaced all 90 bends, low spots/dips That was with a tank under aft cabin floor fed by two heads, one in forward guest cabin, one in the owner's aft one, on a 47 foot Marine Trader

 

[HopCar]

For getting rid of odors in fabric, insulation and such, Peggie likes PureAyer. There are several versions including a marine version and a commercial version. It is all the same stuff except the marine version is a little more concentrated than the regular version and the commercial version is even more concentrated.
Odor eliminator PureAyre eliminates cat, pet, smoke, skunk, cigars, gasoline, cooking and musty odors

 

[HeadMistress]

My main question:: is there anything I can spray (like Killz) (for a house water stain) the engine bulkhead/ overhead insulation to seal/ rid any impregnated odors??

Parks answered your question. However, HOW you use PureAyre is very important:

It's impossible to eliminate any odor unless you first eliminate the source of that odor. Removing stinky hoses is only the first step...next you must thoroughly clean every inch of the areas they passed through...a good scrubbing with detergent and water is all you need, so forget about using bleach or anything else. Let everything dry out enough to be barely damp. If you don't already have one, buy a good quality pump garden spray jug (about $15 @ Walmart)...adjust the spray nozzle to the finest mist and spray PureAyre onto every inch of every surface, nook and cranny in the areas that need deodorizing. Don't soak insulation, but get enough onto it to penetrate all the way through it...just "dusting" the surface won't work. Same for carpet...use enough to penetrate it to the backing. Cushions: remove the covers and have them cleaned...apply enough PureAyre from both sides of the foam to penetrate all the way to the middle.

DO NOT RINSE...let it dry for 24 hours with all hatches etc open so that plenty of fresh air can circulate. Put cushions and soft goods out in the sun all day. If you still have any odor, you missed a spot.

And btw, PureAye also works on musty foulies and PFDs.

(Fwiw, all this is in my book.)

As for your LectraSan installation...unless you'll always be in salt water, or you'l always have a raw water toilet, consider going with a PuraSan instead...it doesn't need salt. It was designed for use in fresh water but works equally well in both salt and fresh. A bit less expensive too. Raritan PuraSan Promo Sheet

Whichever you go with, I'd follow Raritan's advice about how to plumb it (hose or pipe size, plumbing runs etc). Mac McCoy in Raritan's Ft. Launderdale plant has been my "go to guy" since Vic Willman retired...give him a call: 954-525-0378

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

 

[C lectric]

3 1/2 " line? Is this correct or a misprint? Why?

Oversizing like that does not always work as thought. Granted I can understand the thinking that there won't be clogs BUT the material and water will likely simply sit at the bottom and the movement speed will be dead slow. You want the water and sewage to MOVE to the tank. Smaller pipe will produce a faster flow which will carry sediment much better.

The routing will be made hugely more difficult with system piping that large. Once any sewage gets through the toilet and the Raritan, whichever you decide upon, the material to produce a clog will be broken and small.

As for 90o elbows and the suggestion to use 90o sweeps often two 45o elbows will make the turn physically almost as easily AND reduce flow restrictions and chances of catching material.

Just be carefull to really , fully deburr the ID of any cuts as those sharp,cut edges and any stringy bits can hold material acting as a trap. Also bevel the leading outside pipe edge as those sharp edges can act as a wiper scraping the glue away and pushing it ahead of the pipe, failing to make a solid joint.

Don't be chintzy with the glue either. I've seen too many dry joints which let go after a period of time and was clear when the joint failed what the cause was, not enough glue so the interface was improperly glued and weak.

Supports , in additon to the pipe itself, should be near as possible to the joint fittings. The PVC pipe is actually quite tough but the fittings , corrosion and permeation resistant, are not so tough at all so eliminate vibration byu good supports.

Better also on a long run to arrange the piping , if possible, so there is a constant drop to the holding tank. Granted boat movement should help but better if the fluids naturally run to the tank. Get the initial rise all in one
shot as near to the source as possible to reduce any holding action in the piping.

PVC has been successfully used for these systems, sch 40 pipe, with sch 80 ftgs, many times, but PEX???? I don't think PEX is intended for sewage and may permeate but don't know.

 

[Mule]

Misprint...1 1/2 " is the proper size unless for manatees or hippos..my bad!