Newb to AC

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Validated by my own clamp-on ammeter.
 
The high LRS , locked rotor start amperage is common on any AC motor that might be starting under heavy load. Air compressors , air conditioners , etc.

The time the big amps are required is only a fraction of a second which is why CB don't blow and inverters can usually ignore the load.

As many docks were wired long ago having some sort of soft start device on any heavy load is a good idea.
 
Anyone here with first hand experience with the Coleman SeaMach 13.5 specifically? I'm kind of noise sensitive and nervous about how/if it'll let me sleep...

At this juncture I'm leaning rooftop despite the drawbacks. Last night I poured through this epic thread and thought I'd heard it all and then some...
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/marine-c-please-educate-me-45594.html
...but by the end I'm still having a hard time making a firm decision.

FWIW this will be going on a new build, and the builder (Eastern doing a Rosborough 246) seems to lean rooftop as well for that model anyways, and in one of their promotional videos actually feature the aforementioned Coleman. I'm hoping that on trips where the AC may be needed, I'll be able to start and run it with a Honda 2200 with Micro-air easystart. The generator placed in an "appropriate" location - thinking of a fabricated platform with some noise mitigation starboard side at the transom or even on the bracket depending on conditions and platform design.

This boat will live on a trailer and in a garage, except of course when out enjoying the water out of central Florida. Initially St Johns river, eastern ICW and coastal GOM, with hopes of graduating to longer trips U-looping Florida, maybe the Bahamas and eventually the Great Loop.

Thanks again for the feedback, insight and expertise offered up :)
 
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Anyone here with first hand experience with the Coleman SeaMach 13.5 specifically? I'm kind of noise sensitive and nervous about how/if it'll let me sleep...

At this juncture I'm leaning rooftop despite the drawbacks. Last night I poured through this epic thread and thought I'd heard it all and then some...
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/marine-c-please-educate-me-45594.html
...but by the end I'm still having a hard time making a firm decision.

FWIW this will be going on a new build, and the builder (Eastern doing a Rosborough 246) seems to lean rooftop as well for that model anyways, and in one of their promotional videos actually feature the aforementioned Coleman. I'm hoping that on trips where the AC may be needed, I'll be able to start and run it with a Honda 2200 with Micro-air easystart. The generator placed in an "appropriate" location - thinking of a fabricated platform with some noise mitigation starboard side at the transom or even on the bracket depending on conditions and platform design.

This boat will live on a trailer and in a garage, except of course when out enjoying the water out of central Florida. Initially St Johns river, eastern ICW and coastal GOM, with hopes of graduating to longer trips U-looping Florida, maybe the Bahamas and eventually the Great Loop.

Thanks again for the feedback, insight and expertise offered up :)

You'd be pushing that 2200 beyond the limit running that AC on hot days. On a 100 degree day, the Coleman specs say that it consumes 1960 watts continuous which exceeds the 1800 watts continuous rating of the generator, 2200 is the peak rating. It may be possible, but it's really pushing it.
 
Thanks sbman- and yea I knew I was on thin ice there.
Conversely, does anyone make a "marinized" smaller BTU unit? Like 8-9000 BTU and might that get me over the hump?
 
My Honda EU2000i generator would struggle trying to start a freezer box that only draws 4.5 amps full load. The only way was to turn the ECO mode switch OFF, then it will survive the start.
 
Yea not a power house, but my 2000 will easily start my small 5?k window unit in my utility/dirt bike trailer. But it's about as big as a 24 can pack of beer :p Ok, more like a case of wine, but still.
 
Mermaid makes a marine 9000 BTU unit that they say will operate on a Honda 2000/2200.
 
Mermaid makes a marine 9000 BTU unit that they say will operate on a Honda 2000/2200.

I met a guy who says he runs his 16,000 Btu AC in a Honda 2000 Watt genny using a Micro-Air Easy Start to reduce the starting load. That's why I bought two Easy Starts to run my total 23,500 Btu of air conditioning on a 3500 Watt genny. Just as a comparison, he is running 8 Btu per Wall while I am running 6.7.
 
Looking at it from a BTU angle, how many BTUs would be wise for use in Florida for a floor plan/footprint as shown?

Boat is 25’ x 8’6”, so I’m guesstimating a max 140 sf or 900 cf of air conditioned space between salon and berth.
 

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If you mount a ductless AC on the pilot house roof, you will need compartment fans to direct it into the berthing area. It may need 2 or 3 fans to cool the berthing area.
 
I have found that since cold air sinks and warm rises a roof top AC will suck off the warm air and the cold will naturally sink to the lowest point , circulating the ar.

Insulation counts when cooling although the Delta T (diff in temp) between outside and inside may be 30 deg cooling and 70 to 100 deg when heating..

When insolation (sunshine) stops heating the hull cooling is very much easier.
 
I have found that since cold air sinks and warm rises a roof top AC will suck off the warm air and the cold will naturally sink to the lowest point , circulating the ar.

Insulation counts when cooling although the Delta T (diff in temp) between outside and inside may be 30 deg cooling and 70 to 100 deg when heating..

When insolation (sunshine) stops heating the hull cooling is very much easier.

Yes and that’s why I’ve though that floor level ducts of a reverse cycle system (on a small boat)was kinda like swimming upstream.
 
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I lived aboard in the NE for over22 years. In winter the boat will be cold on the floor and warm at the overhead, unless you use a fan , or have enough heat .


A couple of wool rugs on the cabin sole is great insulation , topped in the entrance with bathroom carpet where shoes are kept. Bath carpet can be machine washed and curt to fit without coming apart.
 
You could always put the effort into buying a boat that simply does not need A/C

We live sub tropical and cruise tropical
Same Lattitude as Florida
In 5+ year of full time cruising there has been maybe 3 days we thought A/C would be nice.
Cold shower or a swim sorted that.

Large overhangs, plenty of ventilation, tinted glass
 
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You could always put the effort into buying a boat that simply does not need A/C

We live sub tropical and cruise tropical
Same Lattitude as Florida
In 5+ year of full time cruising there has been maybe 3 days we thought A/C would be nice.
Cold shower or a swim sorted that.

Large overhangs, plenty of ventilation, tinted glass
Simi, we've had this conversation in the past. Same latitude does NOT mean same weather. Absolutely no way would you be anywhere close to comfortable on your boat in Florida. Or, maybe you would but very few folks would; hence, the need and desire for air conditioning.
 
Simi, we've had this conversation in the past. Same latitude does NOT mean same weather. Absolutely no way would you be anywhere close to comfortable on your boat in Florida. Or, maybe you would but very few folks would; hence, the need and desire for air conditioning.



Agree. Plus there’s that pesky thing called water temperature. Where i go, its 87, 88 degrees. With 80% RH in the air. If U open up, then its mosquito fest. If u solve that with netting, then its no-see-um fest. If u solve that with fine netting, then air flow drops to almost zero. And, thunderstorms trash u at all hours. I’ve just described my 20 year learning curve of july/aug in FL/bahamas in small boats at anchor.
The clear answer is a/c on board, or non summer season boating. Then the conversation moves to anchorages with protection from multiple directions.
Or marina hopping, maybe the most popular option.
 
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I am just north of Miami and my 2 A/Cs run 24hrs a day either AC or revercycle.
 
And thats prolly a 95/5 split. I tell my northern friends that SFL winters r whete u need to roll the car windows up between stoplights, then back down when waiting.
 
And thats prolly a 95/5 split. I tell my northern friends that SFL winters r whete u need to roll the car windows up between stoplights, then back down when waiting.

and they believe you?
 

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