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Old 11-02-2018, 12:46 PM   #21
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When you arrive in Stuart I will perform the ultimate test. If the beer is cold you did a good job!
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Old 11-02-2018, 12:59 PM   #22
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Great upgrade job Ted....well done all round.
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Old 11-02-2018, 01:09 PM   #23
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Less power consumption and more cubic feet of refer space sounds like a winner.
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Old 11-02-2018, 01:17 PM   #24
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The door locks:

The doors have magnetic seals like a home refrigerator, go figure. So the doors take some effort to open to begin with. So, my plan was no lock except for rough weather. The objective was to hold the doors shut (and not further compress the seal), just add some additional resistance to it opening. This is version 1.0. Version 2.0 will be made after Thanksgiving.

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Ted
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:06 PM   #25
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Ted, when you have completed your installation please come to my boat and do the same. You will have my undying gratitude.
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:22 PM   #26
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The fine print:

I acquired the Summit refrigerator for $769 delivered.
The fan delivered was about $30.
Had 2 or 3 hours of Sean time.
So, I'm into the project for one boat unit ($1,000).

Have been underway since last Friday at 2am. Here are my thoughts so far. The refrigerator is great! Did I mention that it's FROST FREE. It has a larger compressor. This means when you put warm stuff in, it cools it down quickly. On a 85 degree day, before installing it, the compressor pulled the unit down to proper temperature in less than 30 minutes! There are temperature controls in both parts. Set the refrigerator then set the freezer. Freezer easily reaches zero. Both parts have fans for uniform temperature though out the compartment. There's a nice light in the refrigerator. Crisper drawer is a little cheesy.

I'm sure most of you want to know about its power consumption. So let's start with the qualifiers. My old unit didn't have a Dan Foss compressor and probably isn't as efficient as current models. How much energy a refrigerator really uses is often a function of how many times the door is opened (and the cold falls out) and how long it takes you to close it. Underway, power consumption means nothing to me as I have a 220 amp alternator. So the real test is what it consumes at night. My initial impression is about half of what my Norcold consumed. Depending on how much I microwave, how long I shower, the setting on the electric blanket, and the other stuff, a 12 hour at anchor has been between 5 and 15% of the battery bank. We'll see what the numbers look like with warmer temperatures.

Ted
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:39 PM   #27
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Weíve had an apartment-sized AC fridge/freezer for the past 6 years (about 11 cubic feet). I donít know for sure when the OP installed it, but Iím guessing itís at least 10 years old. Iíd also roughly guess itís been turned on and off 1,000 times...

Obviously, as liveaboards during the winter in our slip it works extremely well. When we go cruising, the fridge is always on underway, powered by the inverter. When at anchor, itís a small tug of war between my wife and I about how much inverter time we use each day. She worries constantly about food spoiling, even though thatís rarely happened. So we run the fridge/inverter at anchor often enough to keep the fridge at about 42-45 degrees.

Iíve often wondered if an AC/DC unit would be more effective and efficient. But at this point, itís just easier (and most affordable) to stay the course until such time as the refrigerator stops working.

Based on our experience, once you develop an ďat anchorĒ fridge plan youíll be perfectly happy. Unless you miss defrosting it every couple of weeks!
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:48 PM   #28
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Thanks Ted!
Great post and mucho information, think you may have solved our fridge problem.

We have been shopping for a possible solution ourselves and not only have they been expensive solutions (range is 2.5K to 4.5K plus labor to modify woodwork to incorporate), but no real guarantee.
We purchased a small apartment fridge (cost was less than $150) and installed it in the aft cockpit for drinks and such. The power consumption of that fridge is about half that of the ice maker. And we primarily used the ice maker to put ice in the Yetty for cold drinks.
As I sit here in the salon and listen to the year old Norcold constantly run, your solution looks like it will work for us.
Thanks again for taking the time and effort for this post!

Cheers
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:54 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmason View Post
When you arrive in Stuart I will perform the ultimate test. If the beer is cold you did a good job!
I agree with Howard! If the PBR is cold,ya done good!... Nice clean install Ted
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:59 PM   #30
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Moonfish and Crusty, an option you might consider is having your existing AC refer converted to DC. I just did this with my 12 cubic ft Kenmore AC power hog that was 15 years old. Sea Freeze in Bellingham converted it at a cost of about $2k. Haven't used it on these hook yet so actual power savings are unknown at this point.
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Old 11-02-2018, 03:09 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr.OC. Nicely done.
Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave View Post
Ok, so now you have us interested so we need more info and photos...
Ask and you shall receive.

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Nice job. My guess is that you may not need the fan. Should cool by convection. After you have finished, test your new fridge and let us know the result.
As mentioned later in the thread, I think the added ventilation will offset the operating cost and maintain better operating parameters.

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Originally Posted by OldDan1943 View Post
You are going with 120vt?
I am trying to stay with a 12vt fridge.....
20 years ago, that would be logical. Now a days, reduced energy consumption and infrastructure saves more than the simplicity of 12 volt units.

Ted
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Old 11-02-2018, 03:20 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by FoxtrotCharlie View Post
That's where inverters come in handy
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Originally Posted by sunchaser View Post
Not for those of us that turn off our inverters when anchored for the night.
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Get a better inverter....mine uses 0.7A/hour in standby mode overnight.
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If in standby and not used it is 0.7Ah wasted

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Well those of you wouldn't be doing that anymore if you had 120v refrigeration to keep running, now wouldn't you?
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Oh joy, another dedicated inverter. The object is to have the fridge totally independent of the rest of the boat. I have 3 inverters on board now. The main 1500 watt inverter, a 300 watt inverter supporting one TV and a 120 vt outlet in the saloon and a 400 watt inverter supporting the fwd stateroom and TV. I shut them all off when I leave the boat for my 2 month visit in Atlanta.
At some point, the inverts' draw will exceed the capacity of the 3x4D batteries.
You need to consider an alternative way of looking at leaving the inverter on. If the refrigerator through the inverter significantly lowers overall power consumption, what difference does it make if you leave it on? If your total consumption with the inverter on 24/7 is less than the other way, why wouldn't you switch?

Having several small inverters for infrequent use isn't a bad thing. There is a point when one larger unit makes more sense and likely has more versatility.

Ted
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Old 11-02-2018, 03:38 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave View Post
Ventilation is key to a refer working well. I added a 50 mAmp fan to blow air in low to my refer compartment and added an exit vent on the top of the compartment. The refer will now freeze ice cream and works much better overall.
You are correct, lowering condenser temperatures improves performance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusty Chief View Post
Watching your post Ted, as I too am tired of the ďMarine RatedĒ fridge.
Once you start looking at a better product, the marine / RV units seem way overpriced old technology. Get more for less.

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Ted, looks like a clean installation. You are satisfied with the ventilation across the coils?
Very happy with the ventilation so far. Can also increase the fan speed (flow) if necessary.

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Originally Posted by TJM View Post
Awesome post, great pics. Never thought about adding a cooling fan to the back of the refer for air flow.
Lots of advantage.

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Originally Posted by FlyWright View Post
Looks really great, Ted. I'll be interested in your long term results, too.

When I installed my second fridge, the instructions noted that the heat was dissipated by airflow on the unit sides. I have noticed the heat on the left side of the fridge panel (but not the right side) and have open access on all sides for this heat transfer.

Do you feel any heat buildup on the sides after prolonged operation?
Many units including mine, pipe the gas from the compressor to the front and around both doors. This supposedly keeps moisture from forming around the doors when opened. I can't feel the sides of my unit, but heat dissipation off the back condenser seems to be working fine.

Ted
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Old 11-02-2018, 03:48 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmason View Post
When you arrive in Stuart I will perform the ultimate test. If the beer is cold you did a good job!
I was expecting Captain FlyWright to volunteer for that duty (beer testing).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquabelle View Post
Great upgrade job Ted....well done all round.
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave View Post
Less power consumption and more cubic feet of refer space sounds like a winner.
I thought so.

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Originally Posted by OldDan1943 View Post
Ted, when you have completed your installation please come to my boat and do the same. You will have my undying gratitude.
It's not everyone who offers to let me retrofit their boat. So generous of you.

Ted
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Old 11-02-2018, 03:54 PM   #35
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I looked at the link you posted for Summit. There is a stainless steel model that looks pretty much like yours that has a door latch listed as an option. Did not see it as an option on your model. Maybe they can sell you just the latch of the S/S model and it would work on yours...
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Old 11-02-2018, 04:01 PM   #36
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I thought so.



It's not everyone who offers to let me retrofit their boat. So generous of you.

Ted[/QUOTE]

I figure you have the experience so it will take less time. SMILE
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Old 11-02-2018, 04:06 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by O C Diver View Post
I was expecting Captain FlyWright to volunteer for that duty (beer testing).
Hey, somebody's got to do it! It's a small but critical extra service I provide at no extra cost...except for the cost of the sacrificial beer consumed during the extensive testing.
If I come back to FP this year, I'll bring back my laser thermometer to find the very coldest one in the fridge or cooler!

Just say no to warm beer!
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Old 11-02-2018, 05:56 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonfish View Post
Weíve had an apartment-sized AC fridge/freezer for the past 6 years (about 11 cubic feet). I donít know for sure when the OP installed it, but Iím guessing itís at least 10 years old. Iíd also roughly guess itís been turned on and off 1,000 times...

Obviously, as liveaboards during the winter in our slip it works extremely well. When we go cruising, the fridge is always on underway, powered by the inverter. When at anchor, itís a small tug of war between my wife and I about how much inverter time we use each day. She worries constantly about food spoiling, even though thatís rarely happened. So we run the fridge/inverter at anchor often enough to keep the fridge at about 42-45 degrees.

Iíve often wondered if an AC/DC unit would be more effective and efficient. But at this point, itís just easier (and most affordable) to stay the course until such time as the refrigerator stops working.

Based on our experience, once you develop an ďat anchorĒ fridge plan youíll be perfectly happy. Unless you miss defrosting it every couple of weeks!
If you upgraded to a more energy efficient refrigerator, you could stop playing tug of war. Happy wife = happy life.

Already have an at anchor fridge plan, nothing changes. Why would you risk losing $10 worth of food to save $1 worth of energy?

Ted
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Old 11-02-2018, 06:17 PM   #39
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If you upgraded to a more energy efficient refrigerator, you could stop playing tug of war. Happy wife = happy life.

Already have an at anchor fridge plan, nothing changes. Why would you risk losing $10 worth of food to save $1 worth of energy?

Ted
$10 worth of food? Hmmm, you dont eat much do you?
In my case, between $200 and $300 a week. In my case, there is no 'tug o'war'. Food comes first. Of course I cheat a bit with my solar panels.
I guess the obvious way to solve this spoiled food thing is to eat faster.
Now if I can only figure out how to get my solar panels to charge the batteries at night. LOL
Maybe if I put a 120vt lamp on the solar panels at night to charge the batteries or dock near a street light??
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Old 11-02-2018, 07:14 PM   #40
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Tedó

GREAT JOB!!! I was fortunate some 10+ years ago when Summit had a 8.2/8.3 cuft fridge that required very little effort to fit it into the space where my old junk Norcold resided. It continues to allow us to enjoy rock hard ice cream, self defrost of course and the interior light.

The only problem I had was it could wheel out of the onboard home. My solution was to use two boards for the wheels.....as you did..... but the boards ended before the fridge was completely pushed into position allowing the rear wheels to drop off the boards. This locked it in place.

I power ours with a 3KW true sine wave inverter that runs 24/7 but only powers the fridge in the absence of dock or genny power.

And as to questions of Ďanchor fridgeí, my 880 amp hr battery bank and 1190W of solar keeps us content for however long we wish to stay on anchor or mooring without concerns of battery charge status.
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