Hydronic Webasto wiring question

[JDCAVE]

I’d appreciate some advice on a Hydronic Webasto wiring issue. I believe these two wires (blue green)that come from the “overheat fuse/control thermostat/overheat limiter” harness have become disconnected.



I believe they may go to this connection that has a male/female spade connection with the same colour brown wire.



Thoughts please? I will talk to Sure Marine tomorrow. If no one knows for certain.

Edit: in addition, there is a “Sure Marine” spin-on filter for the coolant system. Is there a “Generic” filter that can be substituted?

Jim

 

[porman]

Check out this website. Look at the diagrams on pages 35 and 36. Look at S2 in both diagrams. It has blue and green wires going to a 2 pin connector and then to two brown wires. https://www.techwebasto.com/old/heater_main/LIT699745B.pdf
I would take a look at my wiring but it's raining and I don't feel like crawling into the lazarette.

 

[Insequent]

For wiring, I'd follow the manual in the link in the post above.

I don't have a filter on the coolant circuit. For the fuel supply I use the Gar-Ber Model R.
https://www.amazon.com/GSParts-Gar-Ber-Furnace-Filter-Cartridge/dp/B07M6B7ZZP

 

[JDCAVE]

Thanks Porman. I found that document, but did not see that schematic. Schematic diagrams aren’t my forte! Seems you are onto something. I looked at these wires again and they seem to be too short to have been connected together. Also the space connectors within the brown wires have not been crimped and I can’t figure that out. But you suggestion seems quite likely to me. At least now I can talk to Sure about this figure and see what they think about that.

What I can’t figure out why it worked one day and not the next.

What is happening currently, is when the unit is switched on the exhaust just mists out diesel. There is no ignition.

Jim

 

[Tator]

There is an equivalent NAPA/Wix filter for the coolant additive filter. I purchased one this winter to take up to the boat. I just tried to find it in the many bins packed into our van to be shipped North this week and, despite my wife's inventory sheets, was unable to find it to give you the part#.

Tator

 

[porman]

That circuit appears to be for the fuel pre-heater. I think it would have to work for the heater to start. Possibly the wires were just stuck into the connector and not crimped and finally fell out. That wouldn't explain why the wires seem to be too short though. I see only three 2 wire connectors (or four if you have the early Canadian version). Find the others and check wire colors. If all else fails I know Sure Marine will help you. Those guys are great.

 

[Tator]

Wix 24073.

Tator

 

[Ventana]

The Wix filter posted above is the one Sure Marine is now selling. You can also use a Baldwin BW5139. As far as the wiring, I can look it up tomorrow but you will have probably already talked to Sure Marine by then. Post up if you have other questions, I have inadvertently become very familiar with these units in the past year.

 

[JDCAVE]

Thanks everyone for your help. I will confirm with Sure Marine and report back. I’m in Port Hardy and there is a NAPA auto parts store here, so hopefully they have these filters.

Jim

 

[JDCAVE]

I talked to a technician at Sure Marine. He said those wires are often not connected and said they likely were not in my case. He said the likely issue is either the nozzle or the igniter. Hopefully the nozzle, as I have a spare. I want to change the fuel filter first, before I change the nozzle as the filter may be at or near end of life and there’s not point in changing the nozzle and then finding the fuel getting to it is dirty.

 

[Ventana]

Normally with a nozzle issue it will happen over time and you will notice more and more white smoke each time it fires.
A fuel filter would really need to be plugged to starve it enough to not run. They return quite a bit of fuel when they are running so the fuel it needs to run is only a fraction of what it passes through.
If you are getting fuel out the exhaust but no smoke it is most likely an ignition problem.

 

[JDCAVE]

If you are getting fuel out the exhaust but no smoke it is most likely an ignition problem.

Yes. That is basically where we are at. At the suggestion of technician at Sure Marine, I replaced the nozzle, and I also replaced the fuel filter. The fuel filter was basically clean inside, as was the fuel. The unit still could not be started. The technician at Sure then suggested, I apply power directly to the ignition coil (half cylinder on top of the head of the unit). The unit sparked properly indicating the ignition coil and the igniters are fine. The technician said that further diagnosis is difficult without more sophisticated testing equipment and he asked if I would be able to ship the head down to him. That will have to wait until we get back to town, I think. He did say that I might be able to do some continuity tests on some the the circuits.

Hard to say what I’ll do at this point. I suspect the control modular. I think further work will have to wait at this point unless someone has further ideas.

Jim

 

[Tator]

A couple of years ago we were having a problem with our 2010. It would run intermittently and also at times run slower. Discovered that one of the wire harnesses that goes into the control box had not been supported correctly and had loosened the male spade plug in the control box. New box was, if I remember correctly, $800. Took the box apart and resoldered the connection. Also resupported the harness. Problem fixed. Boat is 900 miles away so I can't go look at it, but I believe it was the two or three wire power plug. You might want to take off the control box, remove the plugs and wiggle the spade connectors to see if you have any looseness. If I remember right, there were some youtubes on how to open the box.

Tator

 

[JDCAVE]

Thanks Tator. That’s a good point. I will wiggle things around and make sure all connections are tight. I agree that the control box may well be an issue. That silly clamp that hods it is a PITA when you want to swing the unit out. You have to remove the box in order to swing out the “Head” of the unit.

Jim