Hydronic heating system install.

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Your system looks great. Just one off the wall question. Have you ever considered running your coolant for the heating system through your closed loop cooling system on your generator to use the heat of the engine to heat boat. I have done that on my Boat and I love it. I just don't hear others talking about it. Free heat while the generator is running and when it is not running use the boiler.


John

That sounds like a good idea. In my case my boat doesn't have a true generator. It has a DC "Generator" that is an large alternator/watermaker hooked to a little 6hp Kubota engine. It would definitely be possible to tie it into the heating system, but it is pretty small. With the lithium batteries and solar on the boat I hope that I won't have to run the dc generator very much.
 
Spent another day working on the system, I think I am up to 13 total now. Got the bypass coolant conditioner/filter installed, fuel filter mounted, but not piped, the exhaust and muffler put in, and replaced coolant in both main engines since I had to drain one to hook up heat exchanger. Drilling a huge hole in the transom was stressful! When I initially laid the system out, I thought I was going to have more room for the exhaust than I ended up with. It all fit fine, but just barely. I am getting close to finishing. All I have now is run the fuel piping, install the burner that is still backordered, figure out if the water tank needs a temp sensor, and do a little rework of the piping on my existing domestic water tanks. My boat came with two 10 gallon water tanks. They always seemed a little mysterious how they worked. After tracing all the pipes during this project I figured out why they seem to work so strangely. There is a hot water tempering valve, and they piped the hot out of both tanks to the hot and cold inlets of the mixing valve. So if both tanks are super hot from running the engines, you get scalding hot water out of the sinks, and if the port tank starts getting cold, you get no hot water out of the starboard tank even if it is piping hot because the mixing valve isn't going to let in any "Cold" water into it if the temp is already too cool. For now I am going to just pipe cold water to the mixing valve cold, and run the hot water from the starboard tank to the inlet of the port tank as a sort of preheat. The starboard tank will only get heated by the main engine. The port tank is heated by the new heating system, or 120V power at the dock. Eventually I may replace the whole thing, and or, add a second heat exchanger and pipe the second tank into the heating system. This was already such a huge project, I felt like I needed to draw the line somewhere and replacing the whole domestic hot system seemed like a little much.
 

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Having just installed a big Webasto system I found some of the REAL radiators put out to much heat and some put out to little. SURE marine can size the fan needed to your heat output. I changed three of my fans and got everything I wanted. Ten minute job to add a more powerful fan.
 
a very tidy installation, nice work.
i'll be interested to hear about whether or not you insulate the tubing, and if you experience much heat loss if you don't insulate.
my boat has a 4 zone espar system in it, installed by a previous owner. i thought the hoses were overkill at 3/4 or maybe even 1 inch and then insulated with foam wrap. it works really well, but there's considerable bulk (as you might imagine). i'm wondering about re-piping with pex on mine to clean up the installation.
i have a big copper pipe going up and down both sides of the engine room that's for radiating heat to keep the machinery space warm, and there's a heated towel rack in each head space in addition to the four air handlers. he installed a set of window defrosters off the pilothouse air handler too, a really nice touch.
it gets hot in around 10 minutes or so, so maybe the insulated hoses are a good thing, but those pex tubes are so small and make such a neat installation.
 
Very nice installation. As mentioned earlier, insulating the pipes makes a huge difference. We recently added cutoffs, both on the supply & return lines, for each main trunk. Now, the Kabola only heats the coolant volume supplying the hot water tank for example if we only want hot water. We also have a trunk piped in the flybridge. Recently, we heated the flybridge on the way back from the Broughtons without heating the water heater or elsewhere on the boat. Water gets being heated by engine heat.

Our Kabola is a 24V system, recently I replaced the 24V pump. Your 220V pump is more robust for sure. I ordered one 220V pump from the UK and a 24v DC to 220V AC Victron inverter for the job. I am just not sure which solenoid to use to complete the system. When the 24V pump needs replacing, I will switch to a a 220V pump.

We love the system, except for the fact that occasionally a zone drops off for no reason. But overall a very solid system.
 
Isn't it a Skookum hull with a lot more house?

Yes. My understanding is that the people who built this boat, bought an old Skookum mold that was sitting in a lot in Port Townsend and built this boat as a custom one off trawler. I think they added a few feet to the back to create an integrated swim step.
 
Spent two more days last week working on the system and am almost done now. I piped the diesel line, filled it with Propolene glycol, and tested it. The only thing left is that the boiler is missing the burner, which is hopefully coming in airfreight from Europe very soon. and one custom adapter to attach the hot air hose to an existing chase that will supply the pilot house. Filling the system with glycol and testing it took me way more time than it should have. I don't have the burner yet, so I can't run the boiler, but I can heat the system with the engine heat exchanger. I realized once I started it up, that I had misunderstood the direction of flow on my engine coolant lines, and had them piped to the heat exchanger wrong. I tried to use bar clamps squishing the coolant hoses when I changed them, to keep them from leaking all over, and it did not work out that well. I got it done, but made a big coolant mess in the process.
I also had a couple small Leaks on a couple of unions that I had not tightened quite enough. Easy fix on those, just had to crank them tighter.
The problem I wasted a ton of time on, about 6 hours over 2 days, was that I could not get the air to clear out of one of my loops. It was getting a little flow, but not enough, and had huge air bubbles visibly trapped that were not helping. The pump was just not strong enough to push them out. I drained it a couple times, and added a couple more highpoint vents, which didn't really help. After wasting a ton of time fighting it, I peeked around the back of the boiler and looked at the back of the pump, which is pretty buried in my installation, and realized it was a variable speed pump with a little switch I could crank up. When I turned the pump up, it immediately cleared all the air and worked perfectly.
 

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This is the chase I am making a custom adaptor for to blow hot air into the pilot house. There is a hole in the bulkhead, but an air conditioner close to it, that makes it a tight fit to attach a hose. I just built the plywood adapter today, will paint it, then get it installed next week. I am going to glue the adapter to the wall with construction adhesive or epoxy.
 

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That hull has been around. Skookum used it in power and sail and I think that it did get longer. I think I've seen your boat, years ago, as I remember a lot had been added and it all looked very nicely done.

Yes. My understanding is that the people who built this boat, bought an old Skookum mold that was sitting in a lot in Port Townsend and built this boat as a custom one off trawler. I think they added a few feet to the back to create an integrated swim step.
 
Got the last custom duct adapter I made installed today. And I am told that the missing burner should be coming in tomorrow. Am hoping to get it installed by mid next week and be done with this project, and on to the next one.
 

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The missing burner for the boiler finally came in on Thursday, and I got it installed and the system is running! I have only run it for about an hour so far, but from what I have seen, I could not be happier. I was a little worried that the boiler might be too few Btu's, but after trying it out, I am not worried about that any more. It cranks out a ton of heat even when the boat is super cold. I could not be happier. The system is completely done now, except that the vendor is going to come out sometime next week, after I have some run hours on the system, and check the exhaust combustion gasses and fine tune the burner if necessary to get optimal combustion.

The weather looks kind of crumby this weekend, so we will probably not make it off the dock, but we are going to head up to the boat for the weekend with the family in a couple hours here when school is out. I am so excited to be able to actually start using my new boat again.
 

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If I could ask, did your original estimate of materials cost end up being correct, $19k-$20k? In retrospect, would you have farmed any part of your work out?
 
If I could ask, did your original estimate of materials cost end up being correct, $19k-$20k? In retrospect, would you have farmed any part of your work out?

The estimate for materials was very close. Probably came in around the low end, but I haven't added up the exact number. I was nervous about this project going into it, but in the end I was super glad I did the whole thing myself. I suspect if I had hired it out, it would have been very expensive, and I would likely not been super happy with the results, and pace of finishing the project up so I can use the boat this winter. I was hearing numbers in the $20-30K range to have it all installed. At $30K I probably saved around $200+ per hour that I worked on it. And in the end it is very satisfying to look at it and be able to say "I built that."
 
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