Hose Clamps directions

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T-bolt clamps are great for the way they work. But a nut driver doesn't work on them. And the size range is tighter, so more spares are needed. A deepwell socket (or sockets depending on the clamp sizes) is more than I want to deal with when the time frame is determined by circumstances beyond my control. My goal is to have as little variety to deal with as practical on the boat. The time available and conditions I might need to work in carry more weight on the boat. In an industrial use I would likely choose the t-bolts.

Oetiker clamps are likely the "best clamps" for hoses, but too size specific and not reusable, so not boat wise.

Good compromises make great boats.

A box end ratchet solves the T-bolt issue. I have both metric and SAE on the boat.
 

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Last time I checked, none of those things were in a position to sink in the ocean.

I'm not advocating using anything but top quality stuff where it counts...

I'm just saying anyone that advocates and presses that one size/requirement fits all is just doing what is easy...not necessarily "necessary" to be safe.

You can see where USCG requirements are very lax on some systems for inspected vessels and very strict on others...years of sifting through issues allows them to do that.
 
Be careful on T Bolt clamps, they are very easy to over torque. Most engine manufacturers will specify torque levels for hoses on the engine, and some clamp manufacturers do too. The constant torque type clamp is best for really critical engine hoses such as those for intercoolers, blowers and some turbos.

For most plumbing applications, it is hard to beat the AWABs. I liked to use the stubby Gear Wrenches (by far the most used wrenches on my boat) on many clamps, harder to over torque with the short lever. A T type nut driver is also a great tool for hard to reach ones.

Note we had a post here last night from a guy who paid the steep price for a) using cheap clamps and b) not inspecting them on a regular basis.
 
OVERKILL is a great sport , usually it comes with a high price.

Toss the cheapo Jabsco maceriator and the better quality Galley Made or Obendorfer may cost a boat buck extra.

Measure all the hoses , install a couple of dozen genuine marine hose clamps , sleep better at night , 1/10 of a boat buck.

Like everything they are cheaper by the box full , and always find a use , even a decade later!
 
My limited resources require thinking how I spend my money...so I risk manage what systems are threats to my boat and those that aren't. Spending my limited money where it's needed.

As far as someone's boat nearly sinking from a hose clamp...it was only the start of a series of events...not good but...the actual "cause" of the near sinking has not been determined.
 
Toss the cheapo Jabsco maceriator and the better quality Galley Made or Obendorfer may cost a boat buck extra.

Toss all three and get the Sealand diaphragm pump and live happily ever after. :)
 
The Sealand T uses similar duck bill valves to the rest of the yachty gear.

Mount it where its intake is above the waste , and IF it dries out with paper in the duck bill, and it needs cleaning like all the rest. BIG UGH!!!

The secret is to keep any of these waste pumps WET at all times , so paper etc does not dry out and loose the suction.

They move water well, but unless perfect will not move air , so may have difficulty priming on second use..

Pumps prefer to push , not lift.
 
The Sealand T uses similar duck bill valves to the rest of the yachty gear.

Mount it where the intake is above the waste , and dries out with paper in the duck bill, and it needs cleaning like all the rest. BIG

Well as they say, YMMV but I've never had that issue with a diaphragm pump.

And there should be little on no large pieces of TP paper in a holding tank. Now if some one flushes something they shouldn't and it makes it to the pump, I'd rather that pump be a diaphragm one where there is a chance of it getting through. That plus the fact that it's almost impossible to burn out a diaphragm pump by running it dry makes it the no brainer choice for me.

Keeping the others wet may help but it's not fun when it comes time to work on the pump or impeller when there is black water standing in the lines. :)
 
Well as they say, YMMV but I've never had that issue with a diaphragm pump.

And there should be little on no large pieces of TP paper in a holding tank. Now if some one flushes something they shouldn't and it makes it to the pump, I'd rather that pump be a diaphragm one where there is a chance of it getting through. That plus the fact that it's almost impossible to burn out a diaphragm pump by running it dry makes it the no brainer choice for me.

Keeping the others wet may help but it's not fun when it comes time to work on the pump or impeller when there is black water standing in the lines. :)

You're right Bill, the Sealands do not have that issue. Self priming and always ready to serve. That's why most pump outs use a variation of the same design.

The GalleyMaids are good, but the Sealand is easily the best. In years of full time live aboard use, I never even had an issue with clogging one of their VacuFlush pumps either, though others have managed on other boats through improper operation.
 
OVERKILL is a great sport , usually it comes with a high price.


Couldn't agree more. What's needed for a passage maker is just plain silly for the "average" boater.

I'm in psneeld's camp here. Spend money where it counts and don't freak out about stuff that won't turn your boat into a submarine. For crying out loud most of this stuff can be found in a routine maintenance check.

Having a nut driver in your hand when checking hose clamps is a good idea. Putting it on all the hose clamps you are checking is a better idea.
 
Couldn't agree more. What's needed for a passage maker is just plain silly for the "average" boater.

I'm in psneeld's camp here. Spend money where it counts and don't freak out about stuff that won't turn your boat into a submarine. For crying out loud most of this stuff can be found in a routine maintenance check.

Having a nut driver in your hand when checking hose clamps is a good idea. Putting it on all the hose clamps you are checking is a better idea.

Thanks..I would bet that most people don't know exactly where the water level is in every through hull/hose/system and if one popped would it be a serious threat to their boat.

I'll bet that under my average cruising conditions...less than a dozen hose clamps I would consider critical.

A lot of "experts" will discuss engine cooling and exhaust systems as critical...it's funny...I have been on dozens of rescues that tell me it's mostly a self correcting event. The hose comes loose, the engine pumps the bilge full of water until something stops the engine or the results are so noticeable to the capt that he shuts it down. End of flooding.

Not one hose clamp on my fresh water system water system, only a couple on the sanitary system, etc..etc are really critical. Even the salt water washdown and toilet system can only fill the boat by pump at 4 gal/min which is way smaller than my smallest bilge pump. Just not many threats to sinking by water ingress...especially by faulty hose clamps.

There are a lot of ways to sink a boat...set it up right and hose clamps and hoses will be a very small threat.

I know too many boaters are more worried about their hose clamps than safety gear, training, risk management, docklines, anchoring techniques and gear, etc...etc...

We all pick our battles and only some of us have the checkbook to fulfill every squeaky detail.....especially if it's not critical for safety.

In my book...knowing your boat this well is much better than saying how good your hose clamps are...knowledge is the most important safety ingredient.
 
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Spend money where it counts and don't freak out about stuff that won't turn your boat into a submarine.

Is there something wrong with submarines? Do I need to change my avatar again?

But otherwise, yeah, most forum members suffer from OCD syndrome...
 

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